Barking Deer News

2011 Round-up

2011-12-30T21:40:00.000-08:00

Hope you all enjoying the holiday season - and that you will have time in 2012 to explore Taiwan more.

An end-of-year round-up:

Firstly, most trails/roads/cabins in most places open and in proper working order.

As usual, Yushan Main Peak Trail (from Tatajia) will close for the month of February for all hikers. Snow and ice on the trail will probably mean this being extended well into March.

The renovation of Paiyun Lodge (the main cabin on Yushan) is ongoing. Officially it is to open “after Chinese New Year”, I predict it will the summer at the earliest. We can still arrange single-day ascents (only for the fit and experienced) after the mountain reopens in March/April.

A much needed bus service between Sun Moon Lake and Alishan (via Tatajia) has been launched. Buses leave at 07:00 and 09:00. Single trip ticket: NT$307, return: NT614. More details later.

Repairs to bridges on the Walami Trail have been completed.

We’ve recently scouted out areas in the south damaged by Typhoon Morakot in 2009:
The Southern Cross-island Highway (#20, the ‘nan-heng’) remains closed to visitors between Meishan on in the west and Xiangyang on the east. There has been lots of work done to make the road passable, we hope it may open to some traffic in 2012.
The road to Tengjhih is passable but in rough shape. The Forest Recreation Area is scheduled to reopen in August.
Shanping will be closed to all visitors for at least another year or two.
Maolin and Wutai are open to visitors. Roads are generally in OK shape, lots of reconstruction work being done to roads and trails.

The wonderfully-located Tienchr Cabin reconstruction - on the Neng-gao (Cilai South) Trail is very close to completion. Should be open for use in the spring.

The highway running through Taroko Gorge is usually open. In the next few months expect delays occasionally at the east end of the Swallow’s Grotto (where there was a large landslide November 2011) and just west of Tianxiang.

Birders can look forward to the 2012 Dasyueshan (aka Anmashan) Bird Race on April 13 and 14th. As well as being one of the best places to bird in Taiwan, foreign teams qualify for free accommodation. Contact the bird society - or me for further advice.

Two useful and practical apps for traveling around Taiwan have been launched. Here and Taiwan Adventures.
Steve Crook’s handy Does and Don’ts in Taiwan is now available in Kindle format.

Second Asian Bird Fair, Tainan

2011-10-05T04:02:00.000-07:00

The Second Asian Bird Fair, to be held in Tainan, is only a few days away (October 15-17). I went (on scooter) in search of info on what will be going on.

This event is (rightfully) aimed mostly at Taiwanese visitors, thus the 'bilingual' official website here follows the Taiwanese highly-animated style. In other words not very...best not to say.

The related Asian Bird Fair’s group website is here.

Saturday & Sunday

Various activities for adults and children at the recreational docks in Anping harbor 9am to 5pm.

Speeches, preformances, and discussion groups all day at the nearby stage and Jincheng Activities Center. Many of these will be by foreign bird group representatives - in English.

Free shuttle buses morning and afternoon from the Wuchi side of the bridge to birdwatching sites. Route A: Sicao ‘inland sea’. Route B: Sicao mangroves ‘green tunnel’. Route C: Cigu (Qigu). First registered gets the limited spaces.

On Monday there will be other activities for invited foreign guests.

Pester me for more details. Hope to see you there.

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The bird race at Tataka (trailhead for Yushan) will be on November 12-13th. See the ROC (Taiwan) Wild Bird Society for registration.

As of the start of October, there have been 11 Black-faced Spoonbills spotted in the Cigu area. If wanting a day-trip out there email me at HikeTaiwan@gmail.com

Nanhu Mountain

2011-10-04T23:50:00.000-07:00

Nanhu Dashan (南湖大山)

If you ask 10 experienced Taiwanese high-mountain hikers which mountain is the most beautiful, 9 are likely to say ‘Nanhu’.

Taiwan’s fifth highest (3,742 meters) and the highest in the North-East. If you have climbed any of the main peaks in Shei-pa (Snow) National Park you may have watched the sun rise from behind Nanhu and its formidable neighbor, Jhongyangjian Mountain.

The trailhead is 3 hours from Taipei City in southern Yilan County, quite close to Wuling Farm - the trailhead for Snow Mountain. The first day’s trail passes through lush mixed temperate and pine forest. On later days there are expansive views from alpine meadows of dwarf bamboo, juniper and rhododendron. At the higher sections the paths traverse craggy cliffs next to enormous landslides, ending in the glacial cirques these mountains are famous for.

More photos here.

Nanhu is only suitable for the more experienced and well-prepared hiker prepared to invest between 4 and 8 days (doing a loop including Jhongyangjian). If time-limited or if there is a a lot of snow present, consider making Nanhu North Peak your target - thus avoiding the trickier fixed-rope sections before the final peaks. Less experienced hikers should consider other peaks elsewhere such as Snow Mountain, Hehuan, Cilai South etc.

I can assist in arranging logistics for this area (serious hikers only): permits, cabin booking, and booking the direct shuttle from Taipei (getting off right at the trailhead).

Paiyun Lodge - not ready yet...

2011-10-03T06:23:00.000-07:00

Paiyun Lodge (排雲山莊) is the only significant accommodation along the trail up Yushan (Jade Mountain) from Tataka (Tatajia). An old structure, it worked well when there were few hikers climbing Yushan. In recent years its basic facilities and modest capacity were deemed insufficient for modern climbers.

From September 2010 it has been closed and undergoing reconstruction. Real progress has been made, but many factors mean it is slow. Multiple deadlines for completion have passed. My latest prediction for it operating normally is sometime between spring and fall 2012. Please note, this is not the official line, but is based on personal observations and conversations with many individuals.

As it was late September 2011. More images here

Prior to Paiyun being completed and opening there are essentially 2 options for those wishing to summit Yushan’s main peak. Single-day ascent, and camping at Yuan-fong. Both are tough and only suitable for the hiking-fit and experienced.

There are one or two irresponsible individuals that will boast that that these options are ‘easy’ or ‘anyone can do it’. I (as someone that regularly guides hikers to the top) want to make it clear that this is nonsense for most people. Yes, some some very fit people can run up and down it in a day without a problem, for most it is extremely exhausting and potentially dangerous.

Yushan Main Peak (via Tataka/Tatajia) will, as usual, probably be closed for the month or two around Chinese New Year. Not announced yet (wish they would plan ahead...never do), but probably January, February, maybe March. Even if open around then, there may be extra restrictions or requirements for crampons, helmets, ice-axes etc.

The longer routes into remoter parts of the National Park are opening up after the damage caused in 2009’s Typhoon Morakot. Mapo Cross-Island, the Southern Second Section, and Hsin Kang (Xinkang) Routes are now open - special case applications needed. Batongguan Cross-island is still closed. The Walami Trail should reopen within the month. I hear (haven’t personally been there recently) conflicting reports about the condition of the trail near Guanggao - some say it os OK, some say it is lethal.

Look further north in Taiwan for better trails at the moment.

Fall & Winter 2011 Open Hikes.

2011-09-05T06:16:00.000-07:00

Scheduled guided hikes (open to anyone) in the next months.

Full Moon Festival long weekend.
Join us for 1,2 , or 3 days for fun hiking in Taroko Gorge for Mid-Autumn Festival. As well as checking out most of the main sights (Shakadang, Eternal Spring Shrine, Swallow’s Grotto, Lyushui-Heliou Trail, Tianxiang etc) we will focus on one or two excellent trails. Last-minute arrivals welcome. All you have to do is to take the bus/train to Taroko, be ‘reasonably’ fit, and possess sensible walking clothes/shoes.

Day 1. Saturday September 10th: Wenshan-Lyushuei Trail, easy 4-7hours. Plus lots of main gorge sights.
Day 2. Sunday September 11th: Zulun Mountain 1599 meters elevation, 5-7 hours hiking. Not far from the Lotus Pond and the trail to the Jhucun/Meiyuan Trail. Plus lots of main gorge sights on the way up/down. Option to ride bicycles back down to guesthouse.
Day 3. Monday September 12th (a public holiday in Taiwan) Dali-Datong Trail: I will be doing the moderately hard route. Option available for those wanting a tougher option - and a very easy stroll. Finish with a little rivertracing.

Price NT$ 2,400 per day or $ 5,900 for the 3 days. Includes: shuttle from Taroko (aka Xincheng/Sincheng) Train Station, good nearby guesthouse accommodation, breakfast//dinner/snacks, local transport - and me guiding throughout. As well as the general, fun stuff, I will be focusing on the flora and fauna of Taroko.

Note, reserved train seats the whole way to Taroko/Hualien that weekend will be very difficult to book. Better to take Kamalan Bus from Taipei to Yilan or Luodong, and then local train to Xincheng. It works - quick and cheap too.

General Gorge photos.
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October 10th National Day Long Weekend.
Similar to Full Moon weekend above, but hopefully including Jhueilu (Vertigo) and Baiyang Trails. October 8/9/10.
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American Thanksgiving TBA
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November Sunday 27th Yushan Single-day Main Peak hike.
We travel to the trailhead the 26th from cities on the west coast. Can be back in Taipei etc on 27th night. As the single-day option is only suitable for the hiking-fit. See previous posts as to why 2-day options etc are not possible. Repeat only for those in above average condition. Must be arranged well in advance.
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Snow Mountain December 2, 3, 4.
We will travel via the west coast and Taipei to Wuling Farm. Standard route to Taiwan’s second highest mountain. Backup destination (should permits prove hard to get) may be Nanhu Mountain - Taiwan’s most beautiful mountain according to 90% of Taiwan hikers. Book early.
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New Year Taroko - main gorge and fantastic viewpoint sunset/sunrise hike.

Friday December 30th. General great stuff in the gorge. Stay in guesthouse.
Saturday December 31st. Solid 3-6 hour hike via the remote Dali Village to almost the summit of Liwu Mountain. That night we will sleep in the local aboriginal chief’s house - simple, no electric, but warm quilts in dorm-style rooms, good food, and fantastic views.
Sunday January 1st. Arise and walk 15 minutes to the ridge - at 1,200 meters elevation, and similar horizontal distance from the Pacific Ocean. Hard to imagine a more stunning place to welcome the new year in. Hike 3-5 hours via Datong Village down to the Shakadang Trail and back to the gorge proper.
Other Taroko Tours can be arranged for the unfit/lazy/on a different level.

Richard
HikeTaiwan@gmail.com

Taiwan trails, roads, bridges, birds - and Yushan.

2011-08-24T05:17:00.000-07:00

Taiwan trails, roads, bridges, birds - and Yushan.

No typhoons!?! Not a bad summer - so far. Tip of the day: The best time for hiking in Taiwan is spring and fall but usually ANY month is excellent somewhere.

Work on the entrance to the Baiyang Trail and Wenshan Hotsprings in Taroko Gorge seems to be progressing smoothly. The tunnel entrance for Baiyang (currently accessible from a new trail starting behind the protestant church in Tienxiang) will be enclosed in a rock slide tunnel. Could be finished this year. The large concrete bridge near the waterfall was destroyed last month, work to replace it (with something less substantial) is likely to start soon. The trail will be closed for the second half of August 2011 to allow the cliffs to be ‘swept’ (刷坡) of loose rocks and railings replaced.
Also reportedly soon (maybe this year) to reopen are the Wenshan Hotsprings.
Have updated earlier comments on Taroko options.

The Southern Cross-island Highway (Number 20) remains closed at its highest section following Typhoon Morakot in 2009. The highway department has officially announced it will not ‘rebuild’ it but attempt to ‘maintain’ it.
Residents of Namaxia (formerly Sanming) in Kaohsiung fear the section of Highway 20 from Jiaxian northwards will not be fully rebuilt. Currently the road is passable.
The section of road from Wutai to Ali will not be rebuilt. This is effectivly the end for the village of Ali. The old forest roads/hiking trails beyond here, leading to the mountains around the ghost lakes remain utterly impassable.

Highway 21 between kilometer 121 and 145K (essentially between Tatajia and Dongpu) will only be open to traffic between 7am and 5:30 pm for the immediate future. This is due to unstable road conditions in this area. This may be relevant to hikers coming off Yushan and hoping to soak sore legs in Dongpu’s hot springs. If needing further information (in Chinese), phone the relevant roads office at 049-2791511. Road to Alishan (and on to Chaiyi etc) usually open to most vehicles.

Another bird race is to be held on November 12th and 13th at Tatajia - the trailhead for Yushan, 20km from Alishan. If wanting to compete, contact Elva at the Wild Bird Society, or me (will accept absolute novices on my team).

The Walami Trail is closed until mid November to allow for repairs on the first couple bridges on the trail after Nanan. Should be on schedule.

All Shei-pa National Park trails seem to be open. My earlier musings on the proposed rebuilding of Banan Cabin (to the south of Daba) were sadly wrong. There are no plans to replace this beautifully-located shelter.

Yushan
A reminder: The only, sort-of, sensible options for getting to Yushan’s summit at the moment is either a single-day ascent from Tatajia, or camping at the high up Yuan-fong campsite/small cabin. In my opinion the single-day is preferable. If wanting a simple, fun, hiking experience consider other mountains.

When applying (paper/snail-mail option only) for permits, hikers must prove experience at on a high mountain. Proof - in the form of photos of you on a serious summit (or in snow...) seems to do the trick. Most hikers will start hiking at 2 or 3am from Tatajia (the highway, not the trailhead proper - handy van shuttle not possible) and return very tired between 2pm and 7pm. The National Park has the sensible, and enforced, rule that hikers must make it to Paiyun Lodge before 10am - or not be allowed further up the mountain.

This is all due to Paiyun Lodge still being unfinished. My prediction (based on discussions with numerous relevant people, and dependant on typhoons/snow/acts of humans) is that the cabin will not be effectively operating until spring 2012.

Richard
HikeTaiwan@gmail.com

Hehuan Mountain's Best

2011-06-19T05:35:00.000-07:00

Hehuan (or sometimes ‘Hohuan’) is one of Taiwan’s best high mountain hiking areas. Being so accessible, sometimes we forget how high it is - how many good hikes are there - and how good the the views usually are.

Located in the center of Taiwan, with some luck you can have views of both Snow Mountain and Yushan by just turning your head 180 degrees.

Less than 2 hours drive, from the end of Freeway 6 at Puli, or from world-class Taroko Gorge.

The well-maintained road, makes this a great way to cross the island - slowly please!

Various accommodation options not far away.

Best hikes - from very easy to fairly tough.

Shihmen Mountain. By far the easiest of Taiwan’s ‘Top 100’ peaks. Everyone must stroll up this one.
Hehuan Main Peak. Even easier, can be great for sunsets.
Hehuan Jian (Pointy). A fun climb, up and over.
Hehuan East Peak. More like a proper ‘Top 100’.
Xiao (Small) Cilai. A different feel, some forest, some ‘Sound of Music’ spots.
Hehuan North. Really feel you are climbing a mountain.
Hehuan West. A full day (and night maybe) of great hiking and climbing.
Bilu. A perfect overnighter.
Also: Cilai, Pingfong, and Yangtou nearby...

Bilu summit.

Looking towards Taroko.
Picnicing on Small Cilai
Coming down Hehuan North

Songxue Lodge...well for a few weeks a year anyway, sometimes.

A couple other points:

Stick to established route, feel free to reprimand those that wander of - tramping the vegetation.
The highest point that you can drive at Hehuan (and Taiwan) is ‘Wuling’ Pass. This has nothing to do with ‘Wuling’ Farm, the trailhead for Snow Mountain hours drive away!
Enjoy some of Taiwan finest endemic birds and plants at close range. Feel free to contact me (Richard) if needing help in touring Hehuan etc. barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Top Taroko Gorge Hikes

2011-06-13T07:30:00.000-07:00

My (current) 5 favorite Taroko Gorge Hikes:

Located on the east coast of Taiwan, Taroko Gorge has lots of great sights to enjoy. As well as the very easy stuff, there are several superb hikes starting from the main part of the gorge.

The Vertigo (Jhuilu/Zhuilu) Trail. 3 to 8 hours.

Dali-Datong Villages. 8 hours to 3 days.

Jhucun-Meiyun Villages. 6 hours to 2 days.

Tienxiang to Baiyang Waterfall. 4 to 7 hours.

Wenshan to Lyushui. 5 hours to 2 days.

Top tip: Have a bicycle waiting - freewheel back to your guesthouse!

And 5 easy strolls:

Eternal Spring Shrine. Remember the nice 30 minute loop up and around.

Lyushui-Heliou. 30 pleasant minutes on a trail with a bit of everything.

Swallow’s Grotto, or Tunnel of Nine Turns. 20 minutes very easy strolling - if/when open.

Tienxiang Temple. Various stunning views 10 minutes hike up.

Shakadang Trail. 20 minutes can become several hours next to this lovely river.

My comprehensive guide book to Hiking in Taroko Gorge is coming out in Christmas 2011. Of course, in the meantime, I can set up the required logistics for all these trails. Richard barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Now arranging Taiwan trail running packages.

Click here for more photos:

Remember, conditions in Taiwan’s mountains are always changing. Recently: Loose rocks above the Swallow’s Grotto. Final concrete bridge before Baiyang Waterfall badly damaged. Take care, have fun, be sensible!

...and sorry for this horrible blog formatting...is making me lose my hair!

Taiwan Lepidoptera.

2011-05-31T04:52:00.000-07:00

Taiwan Lepidoptera. That is - Taiwan Butterflies and Moths.

Friends of mine will be aware I have fallen somewhat for butterflies and moths in the last few years. Heartfelt thanks to the individuals (you know who you are) responsible for sparking my interest.

Taiwan is a superb place for enjoying all sorts of insects. I have been slowly adding and organizing photos to this album Taiwan Butterflies, and here Taiwan Moths.

Taiwan has:
115 species of Lycaenidae (灰蝶科, Gossamer-winged)
67 species of Hesperiidae (弄蝶科 Skipper)
36 species of Pieridae (粉蝶科 Whites and Sulphurs)
137 species of Nymphalidae (蛺蝶科 Brush-footed)
37 species of Papilionidae (鳳蝶科 Swallowtail)

An absolutely excellent site for images of Taiwanese butterflies (in various stages) following this classification is vel.cc The main text is in Chinese but still very usable by all. On the main page click on the butterfly icon or the characters 圖鑑 to bring you into the main family index. This link http://vel.cc/t.asp?oattr=0 should lead to a superb main visual index page. The red link on the top left is to species that still need photos - not many!

I hope, one day, my images will be sorted like this http://www.flickr.com/photos/bettaman/collections/72157622429540627/

An interesting effort by the [Taiwan] National Museum of Natural Science to help butterfly identification, http://digimuse.nmns.edu.tw/butterfly/

The Taiwan butterfly checklist. May 2011 pdf from the Butterfly Conservation Society of Taiwan.
http://www.butterfly.org.tw/doc/ButterflyTaiwan20110515.pdf
Field Guides:
Nothing great in English yet. These Chinese-language books have excellent photos and scientific names, and have proved very useful to non Chinese-reading clients.
For insects in general, this set of two books are excellent.
http://www.booksfromtaiwan.com/index.php/other-insects-invertebrates/field-guide-to-taiwan-insects.html
A small pocket-sized guide to the top 133 butterfly species. http://www.booksfromtaiwan.com/index.php/common-taiwan-butterflies.html
The most comprehensive Taiwan butterfly field guide. http://www.booksfromtaiwan.com/index.php/butterflies-of-taiwan.html

If you have further advice (or need advice), email me, Richard, at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com Also, I delighted to get out my binoculars, camera, and mercury vapor lights for any feeble reason. Tours all round the Butterfly Kingdom!

Images above:Troides magellanus from Vel.cc
Ailanthus silkmoth (Samia cynthia) a saturniid moth. Wingspan of 120 mm.

Taroko (and Yushan) Spring 2011 updates.

2011-03-29T22:40:00.000-07:00

Taroko (and Yushan) Spring updates.

Yushan (Jade Mountain): The official line is that Paiyun Cabin will be open from the end of July. Based on conversations with people who should know, I don’t believe this. I predict maybe a reopening at the very end of this (2011) year. Edit August 2011: best prediction will open spring 2012. Note very tough single-day ascents are still available now...when the mountain opens in the next few days.

Sometimes there is not always time to arrange last minute high-mountain hiking trips. You can’t go wrong with Taroko Gorge for a great range of sights, hikes and nature. See here for some recent photos.

Taroko Trail conditions at the start of April 2011, starting from the eastern ‘start’.
Original map here.

Qingshui (Chingshui) Cliffs at Chungde (崇德步道) 176.4km mark, right after the first tunnel north along the coast. Open.

Dekalun Trail (得卡倫步道). Up the hill behind the National Park headquarters. Open.

Dali-Datong Trail (大禮大同步道) Long, scenic single-day, or couple days. Open.

Shakadang (砂卡礑步道). A very pleasant must-do hike, starts after tunnel not far from National Park HQ. Open.

Eternal Spring Shrine Trail (Changchun, 長春祠步道). An absolute must-do sight. Do the 40-minute loop hike up above the shrine exiting at the nearby Changuang Temple. Few people get beyond the car park. Usually open.

Buluowan Trail (布洛灣－燕子口步道). A good steep path to use down to the main highway - especially if staying at the Leader Hotel. Open.

Swallow’s Grotto Trail (Yanzihkou, 布洛灣－燕子口步道). A very easy stroll that should NOT on any account be missed. Usually open, occasionally closed due to loose falling rocks.

Jhuilu (Vertigo) Trail (錐麓古道) is now open its entire length. Unbeatable! See pictures. Needs both kinds of permits.

Tunnel of Nine Turns Trail（Jiuqudong, 九曲洞步道). A stunning, easy stroll. Currently closed due to rockfalls, a very short section on the western end is sometimes open but is often plagued with tourists from China nowadays.

Lyushui-Heliou Trail (綠水步道). A very pleasant 1-hour loop. The short tunnel is just about manageable without a flashlight. Open - and don’t worry about the signs warning you about snakes and hornets - not a significant worry.

Lyushui - Wenshan Trail (綠水文山步道) A recently reopened trail. Moderatly tough - at start and end some scrambling, and requires/deserves 4 to 5 hours. Permit required but easy to obtain from the the NP police (warden) station at the park headquarters or at Tienxiang (the station on the left going up the hill towards the protestant church...across the street from the regular police station!)

Baiyang Trail (白楊步道). A very, very nice trail, CLOSED due to damage to mountainside at entrance next to highway. Tougher alternative route now available - see below.

Tianxiang - Baiyang Trail (天祥─白楊步道). Recently reopened access to the Baiyang Trail. Toughish and potentially risky in places. Trail starts from the protestant church in Tienxiang village. Please get a permit (easy) from the nearby police station. Easy walking once you get to the original trail that ends at the fun ‘Water Curtain tunnel’. If possible bring a flashlight for the tunnels. Allow 5-6 hours. Edit August 2011: may be closed close to waterfall due to missing bridge and reconstruction work.

Wenshan Hot Springs (文山溫泉). Officially closed for the last few years, park officials suggest it will reopen this year.

Meiyuan Jhucun Trail (梅園竹村). Great 6-hour, fairly-flat path. Officially closed due to landslide damage after the turn of for Lianhua Pond. Usually passable.

Lianhua Pond (Lotus, 蓮花池步道). A very nice 3-hour round hike starting and ending at Huitouwan (6km beyond Tienxiang Village. Don’t get too distracted by the views and walk of the edge. Open.

In addition to these trails, I recommend the following:
The ornamental entrance gate.
In the mid section of the gorge look up and try to spot the Jhuilu Trail - best at eastern end of the Tunnel of Nine Turns.
Take in the splendid Feng-shui of the pavilion at Cimu bridge.
Walk over the suspension bridge next to the Yuefei Pavilion. (The trail on the other side is the end of the very tough 7-8 day Cilai East Ridge Trail that starts at Hehuan Mountain.)
Tienxiang Terrace hike across the bridge and up to the statue and Xiangde Temple.

Remember trail conditions are always changing. Recently delays just after (west of) Eternal Spring Shrine - traffic allowed through on the hour and at lunchtime/morning/evening. Currently no delays at the rockslide after Tienxiang.

Rihang, the owner of Country Garden Hostel in Xincheng at the edge of the gorge has been impressing us with his eagerness to help. His clean hostel/homestay is conveniently located 10 minutes walk (can also pick you up) from Taroko (aka Sincheng/Hsincheng/Xincheng) Train Station. Overall good service - as well as accommodation, transport, and food - he has bicycles to rent. Consider his offer to drive you up to Tienxiang (Tiensiang) or Huitouwan by van and then letting you freewheel the whole way down again - a superb way to see the gorge at you own pace, solving the problem of a proper public bus service. Other fancier accommodation can be arranged.

Accommodation NT$900 per/person private rooms. Includes breakfast.
Bicycle rental (hostel guests or day-visitors) NT$350/ day.
Bicycle rental + shuttle to Tienxiang NT$700 (very good value!)
Contact Rihang at 0922938743 rihangsu@gmail.com. Some English spoken, if having communication problems speak to me at 0938337710 or barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Note the 8:40 bus from Hualien to high-mountain Lishan (via the gorge, Tienxiang, Guanyuan, and Dayuling) stops briefly 9.30 at the nearby Sincheng (Xincheng) school. Also buses at 6:30, 10:50, 13:50 from Hualien City (orange building next to train station) take 1.5 hours to Tienxiang. Return leaves Tienxiang at 9:10, 14:00, 16:40, 18:30. Pathetic service considering this is such a top destination for visitors.

For most of the time the gorge is quiet and empty...except when the Chinese tourists arrive on mass. Almost all their tour buses seem to arrive at the main easy sights (Swallow’s Grotto, Eternal Spring Shrine) mid to late afternoon. Be aware.

Recently Chinese (from China that is) tour groups have been booking up train spaces from Yilan to Hualien or Taroko (Sincheng/Xincheng/Hsincheng) to avoid the (un-)fun part of the Su-hua highway. It can be difficult to secure guaranteed train seats if coming from Taipei. Please note: just because there are “no seats available” that does not mean you can’t buy a ticket - and then with a bit of luck find a seat to use for most of the journey. It is possible to get on any train (except the 'Taroko express' and 'tourist' trains) without reserved seats. A trick locals use is to take the bus from Taipei (main bus station, Gamalan Bus Co) to Yilan (either Yilan City, Luodong or Dongshan) and then catch the next local train onwards. As well as saving money and time (bus is quicker...via the Hsueshan Tunnel), it means, at very worst, you may only have to stand a shorter time on the final Yilan to Hualien/Taroko section. No reason for not just going to Taroko again!

Taiwan Bird Race

2011-02-17T20:16:00.001-08:00

Some information on the upcoming Anmashan International Bird Race. See below - more details are available (in Chinese) at http://www.bird.org.tw/. It deserves wider support and recognition.

I expect to lead a team of vaguely competent birders. Failing that, I may be willing to provide transport up there for other teams. A reminder - I am available anytime for bird guiding around the island. Most of the endemics can be seen in a few intensive days. Richard, barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Dasyueshan (better known to international birders as ‘Anmashan’) is one of the reasons Taiwan is a fantastic place for birding. This Forest Recreation Area is located in the rugged mountains east of Taichung City. The idea of a Bird Race is to spot and identify as many species of birds in a prescribed time period/area, modest prizes for ‘winners’ in various categories...the real prize of course is seeing the birds.

For beginners to birds in Taiwan I can strongly recommend the book ‘100 Common Birds in Taiwan’ $9.50 from Books from Taiwan. It’s pocket sized, yet has very clear images and packed with practical information on a good selection of the most common and endemic birds - IN ENGLISH.

If Taipei-based, ‘Birdwatcher’s Guide to the Taipei Region’ is a very pleasant English-language field guide to nature trails in Taipei.

Birds East Asia is the large and currently authoritative guide to the birds of the region. Available from Amazon. Birds of East Asia (Helm Field Guides)

'Birdwatching in Taiwan' is a practical guide to the key birdwatching sites.

See BooksfromTaiwan.com main site for a range of other Taiwan natural history books, and more general subjects ranging from cooking, architecture, history, children, writing, travel guides, maps, postcards, Taroko, calligraphy...and much more.

Dasyueshan National Forest Recreation Area, International Bird Race 2011
Dongshih, Taichung, Taiwan

29 - 30 April, 2011(11am-11am, 24 hours)

For registration: www.bird.org.tw e-mail: edu@bird.org.tw, mail@bird.org.tw TEL : +886-2-86631252
Before: 31 March, 2011
Team: 3-4 persons, No registration fee required.
International teams will be provided free accommodation and meals on 28-29.

Dasyueshan National Forest Recreation Area
Located in the Heping District of Taichung City, the recreational area covers altitudes from 2,000 to 2,996 meters with forest vegetation distributed across four forest belts: tropical, subtropical, temperate, and frigid, and has a total area of 3,962.93 hectares. Dasyueshan Forest Recreational Area has the best primeval forest bath in Taiwan and convenient transportation, that is, approx. 31 km from Dongshih when taking the Dasyueshan forest road. Special scenic sports include Mt. Shaolai observatory, Chuansingshan Nursery Garden, sky pond, sacred trees, bird watching, cloud viewing, and the sunrise and sunset. The forest exhibition hall displays forestry history through topics like forest protection, fire prevention, ban on illegal logging and cultivation, reforestation, hillside stabilization, flood prevention, and forest recreation.
Tourists can find both accommodation and meals at Syueshan Villa, Dasyueshan Guest House, Second Guest House and wood cabins.

Taroko.

2011-01-12T22:56:00.000-08:00

Taroko's Trails

Just in case you didn’t know -Taroko Gorge is Taiwan’s best place for very assessable stunning scenery and great hiking. A short flight, drive, or 2-3 hours by train from Taipei gets you there.

Many of you may be planning a trip there in the next weeks. Remember trail conditions are always changing, here is a summary of conditions at the moment (January 2011).

Trails in the gorge proper, starting from the eastern ‘start’.

Dekalun Trail (得卡倫步道). Up the hill behind the National Park headquarters. Open.

Shakadang (砂卡礑步道). A very pleasant must-do hike, starts after tunnel not far from National Park HQ. Open.

Eternal Spring Shrine Trail (Changchun, 長春祠步道). Another absolute must-do sight. Do the 1-hour loop hike up above the shrine exiting at the nearby Changuang Temple. Few people get beyond the car park. Usually open.

Buluowan Trail (布洛灣－燕子口步道). A good steep path to use - if staying at the Leader Hotel. Open.

Swallow’s Grotto Trail (Yanzihkou, 布洛灣－燕子口步道). A very easy stroll that should NOT on any account be missed. Usually open, occasionally closed due to loose rocks.

Tunnel of Nine Turns Trail（Jiuqudong, 九曲洞步道). A stunning, easy stroll. Currently closed due to rockfalls, a very short section on the western end is open but is often crowded with tourists form China nowadays.

Lyushui-Heliou Trail (綠水步道). A very pleasant 1-hour loop. The short tunnel is just about manageable without a flashlight. Open - and don’t worry about the signs warning you about snakes and hornets - not a significant worry.

Lyushui - Wenshan Trail (綠水文山步道) A recently reopened trail. Tough - at start and end some scrambling, and requires 3 to 5 hours. Permit required but easy to obtain from the the NP police (warden) station at the park headquarters or at Tienxiang (the station on the left going up the hill towards the protestant church...across the street from the regular police station!)

Baiyang Trail (白楊步道). A very very nice trail, CLOSED due to damage to mountainside at entrance next to highway. Tougher alternative route now available - see below.

Tianxiang - Baiyang Trail (天祥─白楊步道). Recently reopened access to the Baiyang Trail. Tough and potentially dangerous in places. Trail starts from the protestant church in Tienxiang village. Please get a permit (easy) from the nearby police station. Easy walking once you get to the original trail that ends at the fun ‘Water Curtain tunnel’. If possible bring a flashlight for the tunnels. Allow 5-6 hours.

Meiyuan Jhucun Trail (梅園竹村). Closed due to severe landslide damage after the turn of for Lianhua Pond.

Lianhua Pond (Lotus, 蓮花池步道). A very nice 3-hour hike starting and ending from Huitouwan (6km beyond Tienxiang Village. Don’t get too distracted by the views and walk of the edge. Open.

In addition to these trails, I sometimes reccommend the following:
Check out the views of the Qingshui (Chingshui) Cliffs along the coast from the Chongde Tunnel and the Heren Trail.
The ornamental entrance gate.
In the mid section of the gorge look up and try to spot the Jhuilu Trail - best at eastern end of the Tunnel of Nine Turns.
Take in the splendid Feng-shui of the pavilion at Cimu bridge.
Walk over the suspension bridge next to the Yuefei Pavilion. (The trail on the other side is the end of the very tough 7-8 day Cilai East Ridge Trail that starts at Hehuan Mountain.)
Tienxiang Terrace hike across the bridge and up to the statue and Xiangde Temple.
NOT sitting in the car or bus looking at a book or gadget. PLEASE LOOK AT THE SCENERY!!!
Travel further west, from the gorge proper into the high mountains proper. Truly fantastic views.

Food: Convenience stores just outside the gorge. Pleasant snacks and meals at: the national park headquarters; near the parking lot for The Eternal Spring Shrine; Buluowan Service Station; Jinheng Park in the middle of the Swallow’s Grotto Trail; Lyushuei; the upmarket Bulowan Leader Hotel or Silks Place; but NEVER EVER at the disgusting ‘restaurants’ near the bus station in Tienxiang.

A new highlight of the gorge Jhuilu Trail (aka The Vertigo Trail, Zhuilu, 錐麓古道) Requires a National Park permit as well as Police permit (email me barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com for latest advice...getting much easier). Currently can not be done as a loop (still include the best parts), entrance/exit (with chap checking permits) only from the eastern end of Swallow’s Grotto Trail. Best day-hike around. Photos.

See some of our pictures of the gorge here. Watch out for the English-language map produced by the National Park.

A good English-language book with lots of detail on the trails of Taroko is available at Books from Taiwan.

I can assist in arranging accommodation, tours, and permits. One cost-efficient option is by staying at a hostel near Xincheng train station, being driven with your rental bicycle to Tiensiang and riding, via all the sites and hikes, back down to the hostel. Cost: NT$ 4800 per person. Includes: pickup from Xincheng (aka Taroko, Sincheng) train station, or Hualien train station/airport; two nights accommodation; 2 breakfasts; 2 evening meals; bicycle rental and van transport to the ‘top’ of the gorge either at Tienxiang or Huitouwan.

Richard. barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Cold Fronts and Hehuan.

2011-01-08T05:19:00.000-08:00

This winter has already seen several cold fronts sweep the Taiwan. Visitors to the high mountains should be ready for winter conditions. The Central Weather Bureau has the best forecasts by the way.

Last week saw the pass at Hehuan (the highest place you can drive here) close for a day to all traffic - including 4-wheel drive vehicles fitted with snow chains, as the road was cleared of snow and stranded vehicles. Of course this being Taiwan I’m sure there will be days in the next couple months when shorts and t-shirts will be fine for the easy peaks around there. Be prepared for restrictions on traffic between Dayuling on the north side, and Kunyang not far from Chingjing, and heavy weekend snow-viewing traffic. Also note, it can be more difficult (steeper uphill) coming southwards at the highest elevations. Feel free to ignore the guys selling/renting snow chains at Dayuling, if you continue on without and then start slipping there is sure to be someone nearby to sort you out - for a small price. The daily bus from Taichung to Lishan has been getting across most days. For current conditions, have a Chinese-speaker call the highway department - Puli (埔里工務段) 049-2982066 and Luoshao (洛韶工務段) 03-8691311、03-8691119.

On the subject of Hehuan - please note the hostel next to the road has been closed for the last couple years and the nearby replacements “5-star” Songsyue Hotel and Ski Lodge (hostel) run by the Forestry Bureau can be a pain to deal with. Great location but very can be restrictive and bureaucratic. Often better to stay at the CYC hostel at Guanyun a further away in the direction of Taroko Gorge.

The main route up Yushan (Jade Mountain) via Tataka will close in February, and in view of the recent weather close probably earlier. See previous posts for more info on this subject.

Being further north, the various mountains and ridge walks in Shei-pa (Snow) National Park are now very icy. Hikers should be appropriately prepared.

If planning a hiking trip over the upcoming Chinese New Year, try to schedule (especially if you have no family obligations) getting on the trails, a day or two before everyone else.

May I join the those deploring the adoption of the English-language name ‘New Taipei City’ for the municipality formally known as ‘Taipei County’. There was no good reason not to use the romanization of it’s new Chinese-language name - ‘Xinbei City’. This new name will cause much confusion in the years to come. Taiwan is a great place I’m very proud of, decisions like this are embarrassing.

Some updates on Taroko in the next post.

Paiyun and other notes.

2010-12-30T01:26:00.000-08:00

Some end of year notes on hiking in Taiwan.

Paiyun Lodge.

There is progress being made in the rebuilding/renovating of Paiyun Lodge. Most people still predict it will be completed and reopened by May or June 2011.This I don’t believe, my best guess is September or October 2011. [Update June 2011: my best guess now is maybe the end of the year]

The inside has been gutted and building materials are being helicoptered up from Tataka. The contractors estimate 50 days-worth of airlifting will be required. Can only do about 20 trips each day in the mornings before warm air currents make flight tricky. Each load is between 250 and 350kg.
Sensors and cameras are being installed at various locations along the main Tataka-Paiyu route to more easily monitor the location of (lost) hikers. More info when I know more.

Yushan Single Day Ascent.

I can assist qualified people in arranging permits and other logistics for single-day ascents of Yushan’s Main Peak. This tough option is only suitable for those with more than average experience and hiking fitness. You will need to convince me of experience on some of the top international most prominent summits, or relevant trails in Taiwan. Repeat: only suitable for the fit and experienced hiker. The National Park needs photographic proof.

Note also, Yushan will be closed to all hikers for the month of February plus (depending on actual weather conditions) some of January and March probably. There are icy patches near the summit, the National Park is enforcing the requirement for hikers to carry crampons and ice axes.

North Dawu Mountain.
The Forestry Bureau have completed repairs to the trail and Kuaigu Cabin. The campsites have been rebuilt and the lighting upgraded.

What has NOT improved is access to the original trailhead. The 7.5 km ‘public’ road from upper Taiwu Village is still very bad condition and then ends abruptly near the ‘new’ trailhead. This adds at least an extra 1.5 hours rough hiking to the normal ascent. The land in this area belongs to the local community, they do not have the resources or interest in doing large-scale reconstruction and would prefer to let the mountain ‘rest’ for some years.

Wuling Farm.
Wuling Cabin (武陵山莊) - the accommodation at the north end of Wuling Farm has been renovated, and now managed by the Hoya Hotel...which means it is not the cheap option it was in the past!

Nengao Trail.
The Western Section of the Nengao Trail to the central ridge and the summits of Cilai South and Nanhua are a top recommendation for people wanting an excellent 2-3-day hike - but without the time to arrange permits for peaks in the national parks. I can arrange accommodation and transport from Puli/Wushe to the trailhead for those wanting to do this trip. Note the Tienchr Cabin has already been demolished, the new structure should be completed in the next few months. Porter-supplied food and tents can be arranged.

Island-wide Tours.
Get in touch if looking for escorted tours anywhere in Taiwan - we do some very tame hikes too! Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Happy New Year!

Southern Cross Conditions.

2010-12-30T01:23:00.000-08:00

Made a reconnaissance trip up the Southern Cross Highway (Highway 20) from Tainan December 15th 2010. Some conclusions I previously posted on Forumosa.com

Passable now by car to just past the Yakao tunnel. This only applies if you are very confident driving difficult roads and for the next few months of dry weather (remember the south generally has dry winters). When the next significant rain arrives the road is sure to close in several section.

Impassable by any means (km mark 148 I think), between the tunnel and the Yakao hostel. There are suggestions (that I don’t really believe) that this large landslide section will be passable by Chinese New Year. We did the last, highest, section on bicycles and then on foot. There was no way we could have crossed the final landslide. Based on previous experience and most reports the highway should usually be fine from Xianyang eastwards.

Even if open in practice, the road between Meishan and Xiangyang may remain officially (legally) closed. If planning a cycle trip over the new year, get up to date road condition reports, be prepared for the road to be closed beyond Meishan, and consider only riding the section from Meishan (for reasons of pleasantness).

The highway is ‘scruffy’ all the way from Jiasian (Jiaxian) to Meishan, stunning scenery after Meishan. Starting in Jiasien (or even Yujing/Liogui) the road is less than pretty in many places. There are numerous places where the road has been/is being patched up - and vulnerable to further damage/closure. The villages (Jiaxian, Baolai, Taoyuan, Meishan etc) have a down-and-out feel to them. After Taoyuan a several kilometer section of road is unsurfaced and is in the riverbed - unsuitable for many cars or drivers. After Meishan the views are as wonderful as ever, and the road is fine for 99% of its length. The problem lies in the remaining 1% obviously, most bad spots have been patched up and only OK for confident drivers.

Lots of people have lots of contradictory and inaccurate opinions on the current state of the road and what is likely to happen both in the short and long term. This includes those that should know: Forestry Department, National Park, Highway Bureau, police, hunters, road workers, surveyors, etc etc. Also note some people’s, otherwise reasonably informed, knowledge ends when it goes out of their jurisdiction - Kaohsiung County people are badly informed about conditions 500 meters further along in Taidong County. Any 'information' should be interpreted cautiously.

My conclusions in January - after a recce trip when I was able to drive all the way over, still make sense: The 921 earthquake and Typhoon Morakot have fundamentally changed the state of things. There will be various targets and a lot of money spent on keeping the road open for the next couple years. Much of the work will unfortunately cause damage that will influence the stability of hillsides for later periods - ie work to temporally open it for the next weeks/month will cause damage that will make medium-term repairs in 6 months time more difficult, in turn those repairs will make the long term reconstruction more difficult. I will not be surprised if after 3 or 4 years of typhoons/earthquakes/deaths/money spent the government will announce the closure of the highway for 10/20/30 years. There is a decent chance of it being kept passable as far as Meishan (still some resilient residents there) on the west side, and to Xiangyang (road conditions OK) on the east side. There are no magic solutions, anything done is at the end of a vulnerable supply chain - the road itself.

Further photos of the recce herehttp://picasaweb.google.com/barkingdeerinfo/SouthCrossRecceDec10#. Includes a lot of photos of rolling rocks from road building around the section of highway beyond Taoyuan. Over 15 excavators were dumping debris over a cliff. It was an incredible show, watching a non-stop stream of rocks, some as big as regular cars, bouncing down into the river.

A note on conditions and background. We drove a a high-wheelbase 2-wheel drive van, in dry conditions. My friend and I are both confident and well experienced dealing with rough roads and crossing landslides. We do not recommend this trip to everyone - no offense that may include you.

Start of winter notes.

2010-12-01T02:56:00.000-08:00

An update on Yushan, Snow Mountain and a friend’s treks.

First, a reminder: Most of Taiwan (south of Taipei and Yilan) has great weather in winter. Get out of grey Taipei!

Shei-pa Permits.
Shei-pa (Snow) National Park have announced some changes to the process of applying for national park permits see announcement (in Chinese). Starting today there will be a ‘waiting list’ function for over-subscribed cabins. Starting January 2011 there will be no need to apply for the Police Permit in addition to the National Park permit. Applies to Shei-pa only but I hope this sensible policy will be adopted elsewhere. I will watch how both of these new policies are put into practice - the devil is always in the tiny details...and update things here.

Yushan
Yushan is, as mentioned before, effectively closed due to the rebuilding of Paiyun Lodge. The only options open are a single-day ascent or staying at the higher and remoter Yuanfong Cabin. THESE OPTIONS ARE NOT SUITABLE FOR THE AVERAGE PERSON. If you have the fitness and experience I may be able to help you out with logistics. Expect (not announced yet) Yushan to close as usual for Chinese New Year for the month of February.

Disappointed? Do not forget Yushan is usually very visible from around its Tataka (Tatajia) trailhead. Permits are not required for the excellent day-hikes in the Tataka area.
The roads to Tataka from Chaiyi/Alishan (Highway 18), and from Sun Moon Lake/Dongpu (Highway 21) are reliably open and should remain passable until the next rainy season (summertime) or earthquake.

Some longer treks being led by a Tsao aborigine friend of ours, Xiao Yang (Small Goat) in the new year:
January 6 - 11 Nengao-Antongjun 能高安東軍
February 24 - March 2 Southern Second Section 南二段 (assuming it’s open by then)
March 11 - 20 Southern Third Section 南三段 (hope to join him on this one)
March 31 - April 5 Cilai East Ridge 奇萊東稜
Dates listed are only for the core hiking dates and do not include travel or extra days. If interested in joining in please email or call Xiao Yang's wife, Sarah Tsai, hikingfun.tour@gmail.com 0972218185 (speaks excellent English) to register, or see their website http://www.hikingfuntour.com/website/ (in Chinese).

As of December 1st 2010:
All Shei-pa (Snow Mountain) National Park hiking/trekking trails open.
All Taroko hiking/trekking trails open.
Most of Yushan National Park trails closed (including the Southern Second Section, Batongguan etc). Some special exemptions may be possible for trails starting around Jiaming Lake. If you read Chinese have a look at this document on the state of the Batongguan Trail...not cheery. A couple interesting observations about the increase in sanbar deer and the emerging eastward erosion of the Chen-you-lan River/Kinmen Tong landslide.
Jiaming Lake, Nengao, Bei Dawu open.
Southern Cross-island Highway closed from Meishan to Xiangyang. Some rumors of possible opening.
And remember, many of Taiwan’s trails can be very tough going, only attempt what you really are ready for!

Fanapi and trail conditions.

2010-09-19T23:16:00.000-07:00

The rains from Typhoon Fanapi are still falling, and clearup work is just just starting, but I know some of you are wondering what condition mountain trails will be in. This is my best guess, will update this post with details as I get them.

All high-mountain peaks and trails in Taiwan are closed right now. As the weather clears up the national parks will send in teams to check trail conditions. Some shorter and more stable trails will probably reopen in the next few days, longer/remoter trails may take a week or two to be inspected - and (only) then possibly reopened. I fear the planned reopening of various Yushan (Jade Mountain) NP routes this month (following last year's Morakot damage) will be put back many weeks or months. Shorter Taroko NP, and Shei-pa NP trails starting from Wuling Farm are probably in reasonable shape and may be open by the weekend.

Expect the roads in the areas of Alishan, southern Nantou, north/east/south of Jiaxian to be either closed or in a bad state. The Southern Cross-Island Highway is closed.

Stay safe!
Richard (on holiday for the next week)

Cilai East Ridge

2010-09-14T00:27:00.000-07:00

A Tsao aborigine friend of ours Xiao Yang (Small Goat) is leading a trek October 12-18th along Cilai East Ridge. I expect to join him on this very rigorous hike. If interested in joining us please email or call Xiao Yang's wife Sarah Tsai hikingfun.tour@gmail.com 0972218185 (speaks excellent English) to register, or see their website http://www.hikingfuntour.com/website/ (in Chinese). This 6-day trek from Hohuan Mountain to the heart of Taroko Gorge is tough and only suitable for the experienced and fit. The cost for guiding and food will be about NT$ 8,000. This trip is likely to be porter assisted, if so the additional optinal NT$8,500 cost is excellent value. Some of their photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/hiking_fun/sets/ 'Small Goat' is the big guy!

This blog (another group) gives you an idea what each day will involve. Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6, Day 7. Also try googling 奇萊東稜 for images.

You may also be interested in their November 11-16 Nenggao-Antongjun (we hope to join him on this one), and December 08-15 Southern Second Section treks.

Ending the summer.

2010-08-31T01:23:00.000-07:00

Time for an update - we’ve passed the first anniversary of Morakot, are most of the way through Ghost Month, and have yet to have a single typhoon hit us...hang on, what are these 3 fluffy, white things approaching?

The latest on Yushan:

Several of the longer trekking routes (Batongguan, Southern Second Section, Badashow, Yushan Main Peak via Batonguan) are scheduled to reopen September 20th. The deciding factor is safe access from Dungpu via the Batongguan Trail - especially in the Guangao area - just North of the Batongguan Meadow. There has been a lot of repair work done on it in the last few months, but it is in a poor condition and prone to bad weather damage. The Mapo cross-island, Xinkang, and Walami to Dashueiku sections are not yet being opened. The Southern Stars (Kuhanuoshin, Guan, Guan Ling/Da etc) are also supposed to be reopened next month - the lack of a road (Highway 20) to the trailhead has not been addressed - I’ve no idea what is supposed to happen. Likewise some confusion around Yushan N.P. announcing the opening of the Southern Second without firm plans from the Forestry Bureau to reopen Jiaming Lake - the most southern bit of the Southern Section.

Climbing Yushan.
Access to the main summit via Tataka (Tatajia) is much reduced due to the closure of Paiyun Lodge - rebuilding is to start next month, and last ‘8 months’. The latest news on the design is that the new lodge will not be that much larger. National Park laws and sensible consideration of the foundation’s stability mean the new building will not be the colossus that some had hoped for. For a taste of the ongoing debate, see these minutes (in Chinese) http://mountain.ysnp.gov.tw/upload/RelFile/News/179/634184206479553865.pdf

There are two options for those wanting to knock off the Main Summit - both are more strenuous and only suitable for the very fit. Single-day ascent, and camping at Yuan-fong Cabin.

Single-day ascent: This nasty option is available again (having been canceled a couple years ago), the daily permit limit increased from 20 to 40, with possible special allowances for foreigners. Hikers must prove experience of hiking above 3000meters (usually in the form of photos on summits). No access past Tataka before 5am, and hikers arriving at Paiyun after 10am (some say 12am) will not be allowed to proceed further uphill. I suggest hikers have porter-carried food prepared at Paiyun.

Camping at Yuan-fong: 15 spaces in the cabin, 21 camping nearby. Again this is only an option for the fitter and experienced. Yuanfong is further away, higher, and colder than Paiyun Lodge.

I’m not 100% sure of some of the practical issues that will come up with applying for these permits, expect surprises.

Taiwan’s national parks are marking this year (year 99 in the official ROC calender) with an activity called ： Taiwan 99 (台灣99) encouraging hikers to climb Taiwan’s other National Park’s highest peaks: Nanren Mountain (南仁山) in Kenting (墾丁) N.P.; Cising (七星山) Mouountain in Yangminshan (陽明山) N.P; Nanhu (南湖大山), (and also Cilai North 奇萊北峰 and Hehuan East 合歡東峰) in Taroko( 太魯閣) N.P.; Snow (Xue, Shei, 雪山主峰) Mountain (and Daba 大霸尖山) in Shei-pa (雪霸) N.P.; Taiwu( 太武山) Mountain in Kinmen (金門).

Note: Shei-pa N.P. announced this month that that they are fining anyone found to have climbed to the top of the Daba's actual peak. For 99.9% of people getting to the foot of the summit (99.9% of the way) is more than satisfactory. The very final climb (yes - real climbing) has been treacherous since the various ropes and via ferratta were removed.

We are busy/on holiday until mid-October. Hope to able to arrange permits (think about Snow Mountain, Jhuilu, Daba, Hehuan) remotely in this time...and then soon after have a new schedule of open hikes/tours available!

Jhuilu Trail Tour.

2010-07-26T02:28:00.000-07:00

Taiwan’s Vertigo Trail - Jhuilu Old Road, Taroko
The Jhuilu (錐鹿古道) Trail in Taroko Gorge is probably one of the most stunning day-hikes in Taiwan. All of the trail is superb - the middle section is truly breathtaking - walking on a narrow ledge over 500 meters above the gorge.

We now offer a package tour for this (we've nicknamed it the Vertigo Trail) hike. This trail is for hikers in average to above-average fitness who enjoy big views. This hike is not for anyone very out of shape or suffering from acrophobia - a fear of heights!

The Jhuilu Old Trail is part of the long Japanese-era Hehuan Trail that once linked Taroko with garrisons on the west side of the central mountains. This section, damaged and closed for many years, is only now open to hikers. Most of it is a gorgeous hiking trail winding through beautiful forest, with an initial ascent/final descent of around 600 meters (2000 feet). What makes this truly spectacular are the middle sections that pass along sheer cliffs, where the cars and buses in the gorge half a kilometer below are...small, and a wrong move means...

The 10.3 km route takes up to 7 hours, so setting of at 7 or 8am makes sense. Hikers must carry plenty of water and snacks for this tough workout. Taroko National Park strictly enforces rules regarding the required permits (I've seen them fining people).The trail starts from Zimu (Cimu) Bridge and ends at the suspension bridge at the Swallow's Grotto (Yanzikou). This is usually the best direction of travel - and sometimes required. On most of the most exciting parts (path less than 70cm wide) of the trail there is a fixed safety line to hold onto; in a couple places there is a simple rail between you and a long, long fall. Start and end sections of the trail are more conventional - yet beautiful, passing through lush forest and remains of colonial-era stations and memorials.

Our package:

Permits - both ‘park’ and ‘mountain’. Maps
Return Train tickets from Taipei to Xincheng (Taroko, Sincheng) Station, where you will be met by our agent and driven to good accommodation near the gorge.
In the morning he will transport you to the trailhead, and be waiting when you descend in the afternoon for transport back to Xincheng Station.

There is a limit to the number of permits issued for each day - weekends may be difficult to obtain. We usually need at least a week to obtain the permits and make the other arrangements - but last minute can work too.
Not included: accident insurance, personal gear.

This is perfect for people who have previously been to the gorge before, have walked all the standard trails, and now want something a bit different. Itinerary fully customizable - discuss your requirements with us.

Can advise on itinerary planning.

Additional photos here.

Contact Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Bye-bye old Paiyun

2010-07-16T08:12:00.000-07:00

The latest on Yushan.

The much rumored has now been officially announced: The main peak of Yushan (Jade Mountain) will be closed from the start of September 2010 to allow for reconstruction of Paiyun Lodge (排雲山莊). One surprise was the announcement that the mountain will be closed for 8 months - and not the 1 month that many people had be predicting, especially as much of the new Paiyun building will be pre-fabricated off the mountain and transported by helicopter for installation. The design is still being argued over earnestly by the great and the good. Will update this post as I know more (shocking how little is really known by anyone).

For ordinary hikers the mountain will be closed. For those with exceptional (I mean really, really exceptional) circumstances I suspect there may be very special allowances made. In the meantime I predict there may be as many as 50 people applying for each single permit for the last few days of August.

Remember good permit-free views of Yushan are still possible, not far from Alishan, in the Tataka (Tatajia) area (we can help you with transport around here). The hundreds of other superb 3,000+ meter ( around 10,000 feet) peaks elsewhere in Taiwan are looking for your hiking boots’ attention - think of Snow, Dabajian, etc. I am hopeful, if the next couple months are not too typhoon-rich, that there will be good news to report on access to the epic Batongguan Trail (a longer, harder way to Yushan’s summit): beyond Walami: and Xinkang (Sinkang) Mountain.

Or take it easy - learn more about Taiwan’s incredible biodiversity - buy a book (or video/map/poster/postcard) from Books from Taiwan http://booksfromtaiwan.com/

Yushan and arms.

2010-07-11T23:08:00.000-07:00

A week of extremes. Last week started well - standing on Yushan’s summit, and ended badly - sprawled over a city street.
I was delighted to accompany Kim Myung Joon and his wife to the summit of Yushan on a particularly beautiful morning. Mr Kim was in 2006 the oldest person to complete the seven summits. Yushan is his 28th of the 50 most prominent summits. Note ‘prominence’ here is topographical prominence - a technical term - not ‘famous’ as most Taiwan media like to translate it. More Yushan pictures here.

At the end of the week i was nursing a scooter-related broken arm.

The details - should you be interested: The accident happened in East Tainan when I was on my scooter/motorcycle out purchasing books and lunch. I was crossing one of those intersections where I had a flashing yellow (pass with care) - and the lady that hit me (coming from my left) should have noticed a flashing red (stop/give way) light. Was a full-on crash into each other. Bystanders helpful, police and ambulance on scene quickly. Firsts for me: plaster cast; breathalyser test; Sinlao hospital; as patient in ambulance.

As well as scrapes and bruises on my chest, elbow, hand, knee, and foot I have broken my forearm (ulna near the wrist). Will take a few weeks in a cast to heal. Additionally scooter and clothes a bit mangled. The lady (50’s) has very similar injuries. Have settled amicably. See further snaps at here.

Sadly this will interfere with some (but not all) of Barking Deer’s activities in the next few weeks. Sorry! Grumble grumble...

Edit September: arm fine now, hair still 'thin'.

Richard

Alishan Railway partially reopens.

2010-06-20T23:23:00.000-07:00

Two short, but important, sections of the historic Alishan Mountain Railway have reopened. The 6.2 km-long Jhushan/Zhushan Sunrise-Watching Line (祝山觀日線) as well as the Divine Tree (Shen-mu, 神木線) Line are operating again. Both operate within the Forest Recreation Area at almost 2,500 meters elevation, and thus will not be of any use in terms of getting to Alishan from Chaiyi.

Management of the rail line is now back in the hand of the Forestry Bureau after the private company running it for a couple years declared themselves unable to repair the damaged line (fair enough - the reconstruction costs will be enormous). The government's pronouncements to have the entire rail line from Chaiyi to Alishan fixed by the end of 2011 is rightfully being treated with great scepticism by those familiar with the extensive damage caused by last year’s Typhoon Morakot. I hope the cynics are wrong

Summer again! 2010.

2010-05-24T20:28:00.000-07:00

The summer is here and that means, for good or bad, some rain for us in the south. We haven't had significant rain since typhoon Morakot hit us last September - the result is reservoirs are low on much-needed water - and a real fear of landslide and mudflows. Morakot changed everything. This year the authorities will take no chances and are likely to close roads/cancel permits at the first sign of typhoons or heavy rain.

On recent trips to Yushan (Jade Mountain) preparations for renovating cabins and trails have been very visible. Recent stable weather conditions have allowed construction materials to be helicoptered in.

Paiyun Lodge.
The main building is to be completely rebuilt 'this year'. Initially the medical center (the wooden cabin on the west side of the main lodge) is to be converted to general accommodation. Rumor has it (why can this not be formally announced?) the mountain will be closed for the month of September to allow for more major construction work.

Yuanfong Cabin.
No applications are being accepted for Yuanfong Cabin during July. As I understand it, the cabin is only being renovated (new roof, new water tank) and not expanded.

Batongguan Trail.
There is lots of work being done on the badly damaged Batongguan trail from Yinu Waterfall to the alpine meadow, and from Yushan Main Peak to Batongguan. These sections are still treacherous - and rightfully closed. There is some hope though that they may be open later this year - crucial for all the remoter Yushan N.P. treks.

Jiaming Lake.
Still closed, some hope it will be reopened in the fall (October is being mentioned). The western section (Jiaxian-Baolai-Meishan-Yakao-Xiangyang) of the Southern Cross is effectively closed. On the long term, the approach to Xiangyang (Siangyang) may only be possible from Taidong. The cabins on the way to Jiaming Lake are to be reserveable online. This should be an improvement on the current system where the first people to have someone get ahead and 'occupy' spaces caused some resentment.

Other trails around Taiwan.
Generally open - but lets see what a season of typhoons does!

Yushan National Park are eager to improve the experience of foreigners in the park. Please complete their questionnaire. http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewform?formkey=dGoweUJIMFN2Rk1XNzNCVVRhT1ZpUXc6MA

The hostel (Wuling 'Cabin' 武陵山莊 not Wuling 'Hostel' 賓館) at the north end of Wuling Farm is closed for renovation.

Coming down Snow Mountain last week.
Have been answering quite a few inquiries about mountain porters recently. Some FAQs.
Q. Are they reliable? Do they speak English?
A. Most porters in Taiwan come from the branch of the Bunun Tribe in southern Nantou County. They are reliable, strong, excellent cooks, and often good singers. All round great guys, but don't speak English.
Q. How much do they cost? Can Barking Deer help make arrangements?
A. The standard rate for carrying up to 30kg is NT$3-4000 per day. They must be booked in advance - you will not just find them waiting at trailheads for hire. Yes, we can help with arrangements.
Q. What else can they provide?
A. They have pre-positioned sleeping bags at various popular cabins (including Paiyun, 369, 99, Nanhu, Jiaming, Juniper), and usually have someone there cooking excellent food. Must be arranged in advance.

Summer Hikes.
Will post soon.

Alishan-Yushan-Sun Moon Lake tour.

2010-04-14T01:46:00.000-07:00

Alishan-Yushan-Sun Moon Lake tour. (and Hehuan + Taroko!)

With the Southern Cross Highway out of action we now are running regular trips to areas slightly further north. These focus on scenery, easy walking, culture and nature. Itineraries are fully customizable. Here is a typical one:

Day 1. Pick up from any city or HSR station in southern Taiwan, travel to the tea-farming villages in the Alishan Area. Explore the idyllic village of Fenchihu (important stop on the narrow-gage forest railway), learn about aboriginal culture, tea and bamboo production. Stay at scenically located tea farmer's homestay.

Day 2. Get up early for a (depending on weather conditions) excellent sunrise, 15 minutes walk away. Further exploring of tea plantations and bamboo groves. Travel to Alishan Recreation Area or (better still) straight to the Tataka (Tatajia) area for easy or strenuous hiking with views of Yushan (Jade Mountain). Overnight in hot-spring hotel in Dongpu.
Day 3. From our hotel there are various options for short hikes. Travel to Sun Moon Lake, tour the lake by boat, stopping and exploring various sights. Return to HSR station or city.

Prices: Per person for 3 days, discounts for additional people. Includes all relevant costs (transport, tolls/entrance fees, accommodation, meals etc), excludes souvenirs and alcoholic drinks.

Menu A: (standard but good- van, accommodation, and meals.) NT$8,000 (about US$250)
Menu B: (higher quality - van, accommodation, and meals.) NT$22,000 (about US$700)

A popular extension:

Day 3. Visit Chung Tai Monastery, Puli, hotel at Ching-jing alpine resort.

Day 4. Travel over Hehuan Mountain, before the spectacular descent into Taroko Gorge. Stay in Gorge.

Day 5. Explore all the main sites in Taroko and Hualian, return via the Pacific coast road to Taipei.

Q&A

How far is the drive from Chaiyi HSR to the guesthouse?
Usually less than 2 hours. From here it is about another hour to Alishan Recreation Area.

Following the typhoon damage in 2009, is the Alishan Railway operating?
Sadly a lot of difficult engineering work has to done before it restarts. The section within the recreation area may be operating this year.

How fit do I need to be? What gear will I need?
Minimal fitness. Standard holiday clothing - maybe something warm needed at times.

Can you arrange something else?
Ask us, we are happy to advise.

barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

May June 2010 Hikes

2010-03-30T03:38:00.000-07:00

Yushan is now open again (closed for most of the last 7 months!) and we are finally getting groups to the main summit. Note: the dates below below are provisional and may be adjusted in the next couple weeks. As ever, there is a lot of competition for permits, we are suspending even trying for weekend slots.

There are many other great high-mountain hikes other than Yushan. If wanting to do something spectacular by yourself please consider Snow or Dabajian. If wanting something with easier walking, but with superb views, consider Tataka or the greater Hohuan Mountain Area (more than expected there - more info coming soon).

May 4/5 Meet up 3rd evening. No more applications.
May 17/18 Meet up 16th evening. No more applications.
May 20/21 Meet up 19th evening. No more applications.
May 27/28 Meet up 26th evening. No more applications.

June 2/3 Meet up 1st evening. No more applications.
June 9/10 Meet up 8th evening. No more applications.
June 23/24 Meet up 22nd evening. No more applications.

July-September schedule coming soon.

Snow Holy Ridge

2010-03-28T07:20:00.000-07:00

The Snow Holy Ridge, is a a set of high-mountain routes in Shei-Pa National Park. The very few foreign hikers that make it onto these trails come back talking about how underrated Taiwan's mountains are. Highlights include rigorous high ridge walking, summiting several notable peaks (including Snow and Dabajian), fantastic views of the Central Mountain Range and the varied geology/ecology of the area. Excellent circuits and traverses of 4-10 days can be planned. It is often possible to travel from cabin to cabin on most routes.

The name Holy Ridge (聖稜線, Sacred Ridge, shen-ling-shen) was first used by Japanese climber Numai Tetsutarō (沼井鐵太郎) in 1928 to describe this world class route - that was not to have a recorded traverse until 1931. With an average elevation of over 3100 meters, but now with established trails (and a few fixed ropes) it is now a little easier than 80 years ago. Many parts are only suitable for the highly experienced hiker familiar with this kind of terrain.

Holy Ridge 'I' 'O' and 'Y'

The different possible routes of the Holy Ridge are usually described by the shapes of the letters I, O and Y. I've added my own conveniently named WQD9G. All can be hiked in either direction.

'I' Holy Ridge (I型聖稜線縱走) describes the traditional, essentially straight North-South route.

This starts from Hsinchu County and Guanwu FRA, via Madala River, JeoujeouCabin (九九山莊, Cabin 99), Yitse Mountain (伊澤山), Jungba Cabin (中霸山屋) to Dabajian (大霸尖山, Daba), and then south via Banan Cabin (霸南山屋, Ba-south), Basalayun Mountain (巴紗拉雲山), Bushioulan Mountain (布秀蘭山), Sumita Mountain (素密達山) Sumita Cabin (素密達山屋), Snow North Peak (雪山北峰) and then exiting via the standard Main/East Peak approach to Wuling Farm. A total of 5-9 days.

The route from Guanwu to Cabin 99 was closed for 10 years following the 921 earthquake but is now open. In recent years some hikers approached Daba from Chengsibao - the North Ridge. Some purists believe the southern exit should be by one of the southern mountains such as Jrjiayang (志佳陽, Sikayo) or even Dasiau Jian (大小劍).

'O' Holy Ridge (O型聖稜線縱走) is a circular loop starting and finishing at Wuling Farm.

If going in an anticlockwise direction (quite OK to do it either direction), it starts at Wuling Cabin (the hostel-like accommodation at the north end of the recreation area) with an ascent of either Taoshan (桃山) or more directly Chihyou Mountain (池有山) - two of the Wuling Quadruple Mountains. From Sinda Cabin (新達山屋) you climb westwards over Pintien Mountain (品田山), turn southwards at the intersection on Bushioulan Mountain (布秀蘭山), stay at Sumita Cabin (素密達山屋) before continuing south over Snow North Peak (雪山北峰) and then exiting by the standard Snow Mountain approach to Wuling Farm. A total of 4-8 days.

'Y' Holy Ridge (Y型聖稜線縱走) the 'O' plus a spur to Daba.

This was the easiest and most popular way of getting to Daba when the Guanwu - Madala River - Jeoujeou Cabin route was still not open.

The 'Y' of the Y Holy Ridge is lying on its side (or may be upside down). It is similar to the 'O' route except that from Sinda Cabin instead of going directly eastwards over Pintien Mountain, hikers drop down into the valley northwestwards, crossing the Takejin Stream (塔克金溪) (the highest headwaters of the Danshuei River), and climbing back up to the main north-south ridge near the remains of Basalayun Mountain Cabin (巴紗拉雲山屋).

This day is sometimes called the Shiou-ba route (秀霸線) and traverses a variety of interesting terrain. Most people camp somewhere along the ridgebefore the final climb of Daba. The Banan Cabin (霸南山屋) is in very poor condition (due to be rebuilt this year) offering only very basic shelter from the elements, but is a good base for a day hiking around the various Daba peaks. The trek then turns southwards again along the ridge, crossing Basalayun Mountain (巴紗拉雲山), and rejoining the 'O' route at Bushioulan Mountain (布秀蘭山 3439 meters). This very worthwhile extra spur requires an extra 3 days. A total of 7-10 days.

The Wuling-Quadruple-Daba-99-Guanwu Route -WQD9G (name invented by me - suggestions for a better one?)

One issue with each of the 'I' 'O' and 'Y' routes described above is that they involve crossing the highly exposed sections of trail west of Pintien and north/south of Sumida. These are fine for those with experience of fixed ropes, cliffs, and loose rock, but for those with less experience and confidence I recommend this safer route.

Wuling, Taoshan/Chihyou to Sinda Cabin, side-trip to Pintien summit, via Takejin Stream to Daba, Jeoujeou Cabin, Madala River to Guanwu. A total of 4-8 days.

This is a superb route that avoids the most dangerous sections, but does not include summiting (good views of though) of Snow Mountain.

Notes:It is advisable have proper experience of Taiwan's easier treks before contemplating any of the Holy Ridge routes. If you think you can go off trail and find faster routes you do not understand Taiwan's terrain and should not be hiking here. The permit (required) officially limits hikers to 10 days in the mountains at a time. In the middle of these routes you may not meet any other hikers.

We are happy to help hikers devise good routes and assist in sorting out permits and other logistics. Contact Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Wuling Quadruple DIY

2010-03-28T00:12:00.000-07:00

Wuling Quadruple DIY

Wuling Quadruple Mountains (武陵四秀) are a set of 4 mountains easily accessible from Wuling Farm that offer great hiking and blow-away views. The 4 mountains that make up this hike are Taoshan, Kalayeh, Chihyou, and Pintien - all 'Top 100' peaks. Excellent views of Snow Mountain, Dabajian, and of the Central Mountain Range peaks of Nanhu and Jhongyangjian. The start and end point is the north end of Wuling Farm recreation Area. This circular hike can be included as part of the renowned Snow Holy Ridge.
Various itineraries are possible - from an exhausting 1 day to a more sedate 5 days. The 1-day option is to the summit of Taoshan is only for the very fittest - and experienced in doing such silly things. Typically hikers should allow 3 or 4 days to summit the 4 peaks. Accommodation is possible at the 2 cabins, Taoshan and Sinda, or the nearby campsites - as usual it is best to avoid weekends!
We help with all the necessary arrangements (permits, maps, cabin bookings, trail notes etc). Cost: NT$2500 (US$80) for the first person, NT$900 for additional individuals on the permit. We accept payment by Paypal, bank transfer, or cash. Discounts for poor students and English teachers (not at all poor).

Send your dates of travel, name, date of birth, either your passport or ARC number (just the main number is enough), and postal address (for the maps) to Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com If possible include your cell-phone number, and any emergency contact in Taiwan.
More photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/barkingdeerinfo/SnowHolyRidge# (The first 110 anyway) and http://picasaweb.google.com/barkingdeerinfo/SnowSyueHolyRidgeHighDefinitionUntouchedUp# (the first few)

Dabajian DIY

2010-03-17T03:28:00.000-07:00

One of the best high-mountain hikes in Taiwan, Dabajian Mountain (usually referred to as Daba), is now available as a self-guided package. It is the iconic 'Pa' part of the 'Shei-Pa' National Park (the 'Shei' is 'snow' as in Snow Mountain - Taiwan's 2nd highest peak). The trailhead is at Guanwu - approached from Hsinchu County.

If fit, and your transport to the trailhead is well organized, it is possible to do this hike in 3 days. We recommend you plan 4 or even 6 days for a truly fantastic hike. The route to Daba can be divided into 3 parts: the flat walk along Dalu Forest Road to Madala River; hiking up through lush forest to Jiujiu (99) Cabin; and the hike along the ridge to Daba proper. All very very scenic, rich with wildlife, peaceful (often no one else on the entire trail midweek) and with several pleasant extra options.

Prior to Typhoon Aere in August 2004 Daba (大霸尖山) was a popular 2-day hike for many Taiwanese. This standard approach reopened in July 2009, but hikers must now walk the 19 km of forest road (still just about passable by official/emergency vehicles) from Guanwu ( 觀霧) Forest Recreation Area to the original trailhead at Madala River. This essentially flat gravel road is a delight to walk but is despised by most Taiwanese hikers - in a hurry to the main peak.

We provide:
The necessary national park permits, and cabin bookings.
Professional, topographical maps with English annotation.
Detailed information on how to do this hike by yourself - trail notes, transport & accommodation options, flora/fauna, other options, suggested packing list, hiking language tips etc.
Additional follow-up email/phone support and advice.

Cost:
NT$2500 (US$80) for the first person, NT$900 for additional individuals on the permit. We accept payment by Paypal, bank transfer, or cash. Discounts for poor students and English teachers (not poor).

Send your dates of travel, name, date of birth, either your passport or ARC number (just the main number is enough), and postal address (for the maps) to Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com If possible include your cell-phone number, and any emergency contact in Taiwan.

Notes:
Hiking Daba can be part of the world-class 4-9 day Snow Mountain Holy Ridge hike to/from Wuling. Only suitable for the more experienced.
Dabajian is also known as Tapachienshan, Daba, Taba, Dabajianshan. Is featured on the NT$500 note.
Possible to stay in cabins only, or a combination of cabins and camping.

See the photos from Rachael's recent trip there.

Other good news:
Snow Mountain's West Ridge is expected to actually reopen after after being closed for 10 years - as soon as the snow accumulated on the main peak melts in the next couple weeks.
Shei-Pa National Park are to build a new cabin at the ruins of Banan Cabin (just south of Daba on the Holy Ridge) this year. This will enable hikers to stay in modern cabins all the way from Snow Main Peak, or the Wuling Quadruple Peaks, right through to Guanwu.
We now have available weatherproof 1:50000 topographical maps covering the entire Shei-Pa National Park. For a modest fee we can annotate with English to your requirements.

A short return to winter.

2010-03-10T01:15:00.000-08:00

The celebrated reopening of Yushan Main Peak on March 6th was accompanied by a death on the summit. This, and the winter-like weather of the last couple days has meant the main peak being closed again to ordinary hikers. It is still possible to apply for permits if able to prove you having proper training, experience and gear (carefully checked at multiple stages).

In the caged section.

Before the summit.
Before we know it, the summery weather will have returned, trails will be fine...and then a malingering El Nino may produce more exciting news.

Don't forget to consider Snow Mountain (Xue Shan, Shei Shan, Syue Shan etc), Taiwan's second highest. Probably more scenic, more relaxed, easier to get permits for, and - if wanting to do unsupported - more accessible by public transport.

Dabajian is an excellent alternative if looking for a great mountain and a less-regulated approach.

Beidawu (北大武, North Dawu) Mountain in Pindung County is getting hikers again. Following Morakot there is a new, lower, trailhead that adds an additional 2 hours to the hike. The water supply at Juniper Lodge is occassionally problematic - another good source is 10 mins away near the waterfall. Several new landslides the most signifigant being 0.5 and 1.75 from Juniper Lodge. Avoid hiking Beidawu if rain is predicted, the trail and approach road are 'unwell'.

Continuing my moment of of positivity: I'm often infuriated by the design of Taiwanese websites, Shei-Pa National Park's animated main page is quite inspiring nowadays however.

May, June, July and August scheduled dates coming shortly.

Richard barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Yushan Treks and Tataka

2010-02-10T01:07:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!

Tataka

Tataka (Tatajia) - if visiting the Alishan area or traveling in Southern Nantou County, I highly recommend stopping and spending some time (from a few minutes to a couple days) hiking in the area.

Download useful map here and here.

My four suggestions:

Lazy: Get out of car look around. Wander up to the visitor center, have a coffee.

Easy: Hike through the forest along the asphalt road towards the observatory, halfway (at Linjhih trailhead) along look over the saddle for views to the south and Yushan. Can also walk to Tataka Anbu -the trail head for Yushan.

Full-day: Do a figure-of-8 incorporating the observatory, the Tataka Anbu (Tataka Saddle - the real trailhead for Yushan), the asphalt road and the hiking trail on the south side of Lulin/Linjhih Mountains. Great views of the valleys to the south and Yushan's southern peaks. Note the section between Tataka Anbu and Mt Linjhih, while well maintained, is steep.

Quick Peak: Hike to the top of Dongpu Mountain. Great workout and fantastic views of the valleys to the north and Yushan's Main/North Peaks.

Dongpu Mountain as seen from Linjhih Mountain (looking northwards).

Consider avoiding Alishan and staying in the very basic Upper (Shang) Dungpu Hostel near the parking lot. Outside of the big holidays, no one has a problem with people camping in the carparks next to the signs saying 'No Camping'.

Remember most people (if they visit at all) have left the area by mid-afternoon. After that it is quiet, very quiet! Bring all you need. Must write a fuller post specifically on this subject. In the meantime, look out for the leaflet/map in English to this area 20km from Alishan forest resort. Note this area is over 50 km from Dongpu Hot Spring resort village and has no public transport.

See these photos of a recent trip there.

Yushan ascents. [Note this is an old post. Click on banner for most recent news]

The main peak of Yushan is officially opening March 6th (not the 1st as 'planned' previously). We have some dates for March and April ascents via Tataka. Note the approach via Batongguan Meadow is still closed and in terrible condition, we do not expect this route to be an option for some time. Likewise, all other Yushan National Park trekking routes are still closed. See this for comments on the Southern Cross-Island highway. (Trails elsewhere in Taiwan mostly fine)

March 11/12 (meeting up the previous evening) FULL
March 17/18 (meeting up the previous evening) FULL
March 23/24 (meeting up the previous evening) FULL
April 7/8 (meeting up the previous evening) FULL
April 20/21 (meeting up the previous evening) FULL

May/June/July dates - and other mountains - in next post.

Snow, ice and Paiyun.

2010-01-13T03:20:00.000-08:00

Anyone living in Taiwan (or more generally, the northern hemisphere) may have noticed the colder than usual weather of recent weeks. Many of Taiwan's high mountain routes are snow-covered and quite icy - boom times for snow-chain dealers and hot-pot restaurants. Sadly several hikers have died from exposure and falls in the last few weeks - including a guide on Yushan last week. With this in mind, Yushan national park has now closed the main peak for the season, the next possible main peak ascents will only be possible (pending reasonable conditions) from March. We hope to have dates ready soon.

Construction of overdue new facilities at Paiyun Cabin (排雲山莊) is expected to be started in the middle of this year and be finished before 2011 (we shall see!). Preliminary plans include a 2-level building, accommodation for 160 people (no camping) in 4-8 person rooms, a drying room, and centralized cooking and dining facilities. Proper wastewater treatment and use of solar panels etc can be expected. This is in response to demands from Taiwanese (and foreign) hikers to increase the number of people allowed to climb Yushan - currently around 90 per day, and to improve the currently mediocre experience at Paiyun. Many have compared the currently modest Paiyun Lodge to the facilities available when climbing Mount Kinabalu in Malaysia. The cost is expected to be around NT$40 million (about US$1.25 million).

News: The National Police Administration no longer will issue permit to approach Lioushun Mountain/Citsai Lake from the east. The section on elevated railway sleepers (unserviced for how many decades?) is now considered too dangerous.

My friendly rant time: Must again remind all of you living in the north of Taiwan (Taipei, Hsinchu, Yilan etc) that the weather is much much better in the center and south in winter - dry, sunny. As for the summer...er... stay on the cooler end of the island.

Great to have http://booksfromtaiwan.com/ selling excellent Taiwanese flora and fauna books now. If ever you need a Formosan sea cucumber field guide...

Whatever kind of new year you celebrate make it a very happy and safe one!

Yushan open ...and Snow West Ridge!

2009-12-20T18:36:00.000-08:00

Some pre-Christmas good news.

The dry weather has been good for roads being reopened. See http://aftermorakot.blogspot.com/ for more.

Yushan's Main Peak is now slowly reopening to regular hikers. We will be checking out the trail in the next few weeks and then scheduling hikes from March onwards. The national park still has not officially announced, but is very likely to do so, the annual closure of Yushan for the month of February. Longer trails (other than the Main and its sub-peaks) deeper in the park remain very much closed for the time being.
Some excellent news! Ten years after being closed by the 921 earthquake, the Snow Mountain West Ridge (雪山西稜) trail is to officially reopen next month. This 6-day hike from Wuling, over Snow Main, Cuichr Pond (pictured), and exiting at Dasyueshan will be back on our schedule as soon as possible - possibly March. The local hiking community had been vigorously protesting the lack of progress on reopening this important route - lots of 'Top 100' Baiyue peaks along the way. Note that in some places the trail is very rough, and is only suitable for the experienced hiker.

Yushan (Jade Mountain) reopening...?

2009-10-11T23:39:00.000-07:00

It is very likely that Yushan's trails will not start reopening until March 2010. Nothing has been officially confirmed yet, but this was one of the main conclusions at a recent meeting between the National Park and local hiking groups.

Repairs to approach roads are still at an early stage. Both highways No 21 from Nantou, and No 18 via Alishan, to Tataka (Tatajia) are in a very bad shape. It inadvisable to approach the area without a very good reason and a 4-wheel drive vehicle. The standard Tataka trail to the main peak of Yushan (Jade Mountain) will probably be the first reopened. The entry points to the longer trekking trails, such as via Dungpu/Batongguan and the Southern Cross Highway, will remain closed for a longer time.

One bit of good news. Competition for permits has been, and will continue to be, stiff. It has been suggested that foreign hikers be allowed to apply 3 months in advance for the required spaces at Paiyun Cabin. Should this become official policy (hope so!) it will be reflected in our spring schedule.

Revised 2009 - 2010 schedule.

2009-09-22T02:19:00.000-07:00

This has been a difficult time to be scheduling hikes. Sorry to those of you that await a proper email response to various reasonable questions - keep pestering me!

Most of the mountains in the southwest including Yushan National Park and along the Southern Cross remain very closed. I've been updating the previous post regarding trail and road news.

The most optimistic prediction for Yushan's Main Peak is that it may be reopened in November. The various bits of damage to the trail, Paiyun Lodge, and traverse via Batongguan are well illustrated in the word document accessible here on the national park's website (the link is in the middle of the page beneath the dotted lines). Road access to Tataka via Alishan is possible by four-wheel drive vehicles. Tataka from Nantou (number 21) will not be passable for many months - for the gory photos see here.

Below is a provisional listing of hikes open to anyone fit enough for November to February. The good news (need some after talking about Yushan) is that northern Taiwan trails are generally in good condition - and the conventional approach to Daba is open.

November 2009

Nenggao-Antongjyun Traverse (能高安東軍縱走) Full
4th evening 10th evening.Up the Nenggao Trail, south along the spine, and exiting at Aowanda. See http://barkingdeernews.blogspot.com/2009/06/nenggao-andongjun.html for a few more details.

Daba Jian (大霸尖山)
12nd evening - 16th evening.
Extended approach from Guanwu to the famous barrel-shaped mountain.

Danda Cross-Island/Southern Third Section (丹大橫斷/南三段)
November 19th - 29th.
One of the longest cross-island routes - tough.

December

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain). Likely to be still closed.
1st evening - 3rd evening. Note, still not sure if it will be open, permits must be applied for before November 1st.The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Nengao Trail and Cilai South (能高奇萊南峰).
4th evening - 6th evening or 7th afternoon.
Fantastic historic trail to the spine of Taiwan.

Snow Mountain (雪山, Syueshan, and many other names...)
9th evening to 12th evening
The standard approach to Taiwan's second highest peak. May consider Wuling Quadruple peaks (武陵四秀)

Chitsai Lake and Hioushun Mountain (七彩湖六順山)
15th - 19th.
Hike to the spine of Taiwan from Hualian County.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain). Likely to be still closed.
20th evening - 22nd evening.
Note, still not sure if it will be open, permits must be applied for before November 19th.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Nengao Trail and Cilai South (能高奇萊南峰).
24th morning - 27th evening.
Fantastic historic trail to the spine of Taiwan.

Cilai East Ridge (奇萊東稜)
New Year's 31st on Hehuan - January 6th evening.
Epic, rigorous hike over Cilai North finishing in Taroko Gorge.

January 2010

Snow Holy Ridge (聖稜線)
10th evening - 14th evening.
The circular 'O' route. Fast, tough, not for those with vertigo.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain).17th evening - 19th evening. Likely to be still closed.
Note, still not sure if it will be open, permits must be applied for before December 15th.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Sinkang Ridge (新康)
21st evening - 28th - pending reopening of trail.
From the Jiaming Lake, over Sinkang, exiting via the Walami trail.

February

Snow Mountain via Sikayo (Jhihjiayan) Mountain (志佳陽雪山)
1st evening - 4th night.
The original approach to the mountain. Descend via the East Peak.
OR possibly:
Snow Mountain North Peak and Cuichr Pond, checking out the dragon's spine and glacial cirques (combes) of the area.

Baigu Mountain (白姑大山).
5th evening - 8th evening.
The rarely rarely climbed, south of the Snow Range, made more inaccessible by the 921 earthquake.

Daba Jian (大霸尖山)
12nd evening - 16th evening.
Extended approach from Guanwu to the famous barrel-shaped mountain.

Jiaming Meteor Lake (嘉明湖)
22th evening - 25 evening.
Pending reopening of trail.

Siluan Dashan (西巒大山)
26th evening - 28th evening.

March.

Yanshui Fireworks (鹽水蜂炮)
Not our usual sort of trip. We will spend the main night of the festival in Yanshui (Yenshui) for this adrenalin and smoke-laced event.

In the meantime we hope there will be some good news about about the longer Yushan N.P. routes (Badasiou 八大秀, the Southern Stars 南橫三星, The Batongguan Trail 八通關越嶺, the Southern Second Section 南二段, the Mapo (Mapolass) Ridge Traverse 馬博橫斷), and all the other great stuff affected by Typhoon Morakot.

Please note: dates and other details listed here are liable to change for various reasons. I will try to keep things updated! These trips are of the standard hiking sort - each hiker carries, as well as his own, a proportion of the team's gear, portering not standard (can be arranged), some rough conditions and danger are to be expected. You should only attempt activities that you have the appropriate experience and ability to deal with.

Morakot, road and trail update.

2009-09-01T23:52:00.000-07:00

Post Morakot update. 2nd September. [September 16 update]

Many roads continue to be opened up. Few are ready for casual visitors in regular (IE not 4-wheel drive/low wheelbase) vehicles, and sensitive to any bad weather. If you have no genuine reason to travel there, or are not confident in doing so - don't.

As well as conventional hikes in mountains further to the north, we are now doing trips via typhoon-affected areas in the south. Normality is a long way off yet, and precise itineraries are difficult to describe until close to departure.
We are not interested in activities in the disaster zone that interfere with official recovery work, and do not benefit the areas in some tangible, practical way. Simple - if we are not wanted/needed there we don't go.

However, if you have some special skill to offer that may be of use to these communities we are happy to help out with logistics - transport, translation etc. barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Latest road conditions.

As mentioned in my previous post, do not venture into areas that are not officially opened (for simplicity's sake assume that includes all western mountain areas between Shueili in Nantou County and Pingdung). Doing so is dangerous and interferes with recovery efforts.

Southern Cross-Island Highway (Number 20).
Contrary to early fears it seems that the much-loved Southern Cross Highway may not share the fate of abandonment the Central Cross (Number 8) had after the 921 earthquake 10 years ago. It is extensively damaged, but it could be open again within one or two years. The roads department has a target of March next year. I wonder though what will actually happen when the enormous cost of all this becomes clear...
It is now possible to make it to Baolai via a rough alternative route. From Baolai to Taoyuan may be passable in days, Taoyuan to Meishan will be more difficult to reopen. The unpopulated section from Meishan onwards via Tienchr to the Yakao tunnel has been inspected from the air by the military and is not as badly damaged as feared but will not be a high priority initially. [September 16 update] The section between Jiasian and Baolai is now open to regular cars, expect very rough conditions and delays. Hopes that the the road will be opened as far as Taoyuan by late October. To Meishan and Yakao by March 2010...maybe.

From the east the highway is open to Lidao and perhaps as far as Siangyang. [September 16 update] The road is open past Lidao as far as kilometer mark 148, but closed at the Lidao tunnel between 6pm and 6am. The Roads Department hope to have access to Yakao within a week.

Alishan Highway (Number 18).
The priority at the moment is to get some form of contact to the various communities in the Alishan area (remember there is much more to Alishan than just the forest recreation area). It is expected the main highway will have to be rerouted in places. It seems access to the recreation area by off-road vehicle may be possible now, regular cars by mid to late September, but large coaches not for many, many months. [September 16 update] Regular cars can make it to Shihjhuo (km63). The damage at km mark 73 is causing problems, the alternative road around it is only suitable for 4-wheel drive vehicles. The roads department estimate Alishan Rec Area will be open to small buses along the main highway by the start of November. By January large tour buses may be allowed up - passengers being shuttled across the difficult sections by smaller vehicles.

[September 16 update] Highway 21 (turning in number 18) running north from Shueili, Nantou County may be open past Tataka by early October. Not sure about road conditions - expect the worst.
The forest railway will not be operating in any way for many months, major long-term changes are being planned.

[September 16 update] Most other Alishan roads have been opened up to some degree. Lots of diversions and atrocious conditions.

Namasia
Highway 20 stops just north of Jiaxian at Hsiaolin. Very rough and roundabout access to Namasia is now possible from the west. See Lief's blog for the latest. [September 16 update]It is possible to travel as far as Siaolin by regular car if conditions (weather) is perfect.
Namasia can be accessed by two routes over the Alishan range. Both are long and only suitable for 4-wheel drive vehicles. Only genuine recovery vehicles welcome. The original route of highway 21 from Jiasian is not expected to be reopened for at least 3 years.

Wutai, Maolin, and Lioukuei.
Roads have been reopened to most in to all these areas. Expect many diversions, dangerous sections, and restrictions. [September 16 update] Highway 24 has been opened as far as the 45 km mark. Several sections require 4-wheel drive vehicles and may be closed due to falling rocks.
[September 16 update] The Southern Link rail line is now running again.

Hiking Trails.

Yushan (Jade Mountain) Main Peak
Access to the trailhead at Tataka (Tatajia) is still impossible. Permits will not be issued at least until after October and possibly not until January 2010. I expect the actual trail to be in reasonable condition. [September 16 update] Strong rumors that the main peak will be reopened mid-October.

Yushan - Longer trails.
Do not expect to get permission to hike routes (Bada shiou, Mapo, Southern Second, Batongguan Cross Island) that involve the Dungpu-Batongguan trail for at least 6 months or even years.

Jiaming Lake and Sinkang.
Access to the Siangyang trailhead from the west may be impossible for a year or two. Emergency vehicles can travel up from the east and I have hopes that in the next few monthsJiaming - and even Sinkang will be opened up for hiking, especially as the Walami trail (near Yuli, Hualian County, the eastern end of the Batongguan trail) is officially open as far as Walami Cabin now.

Guan/Kuan Mountain.
The trailhead for this mountain, the 'Southern Stars' nearby, and the Southern First Section is on the section of the Southern Cross Highway that will be repaired last. Will be closed the rest of this year and maybe much longer.

North Dawu
The road from Taiwu village to the trailhead has been severely damaged and is very unlikely to be repaired this year.

Southern Nantou trails/peaks.
The various trails and peaks with trailheads in southern Nantou should be considered impossible for the next few months. Little information is available about trail conditions and anyway road travel south of Shueili is restricted to emergency vehicles only.

Northern and central Mountains.
Most peaks and trails in northern and north-central Taiwan are back to as they were before Morakot.

Snow Mountain and around.
The main peak and most of the Wuling Farm based routes are open as before. The standard Daba (from the west) route is still closed due to slippage on the Dalu Forest Road. [September 16 update] Daba's traditional approach is now open (well not this week), the Dalu Forest Road must be hiked in from Guanwu.

Taroko Long Trails.
The high mountain and long trails in Taroko Park are open...well not really if you are a foreigner applying for permits, no change there! For details on the tourist trails in the gorge see their website.

Some thoughts:
Taiwan, being a democratic and free-speech minded society, is rightfully engaged in various lively debates on the decisions made before and after this typhoon: rural settlements, cultivation practices, water diversion projects, emergency responses, resettlement policy, restoration etc. It is important that all these issues be rationally analyzed and the correct long-term conclusions implemented effectively.

However, we must not forget the severe topography of the area and the scale of the rainfall experienced here last month - what came in one weekend exceeded that received by many places in several years.

For example Alishan received 2.7 meters (109 inches) over 3 days, Pingdung received 1.4 meters (55 inches) in 24 hours.

For comparison, some 'wet' places' average annual rainfall:

London - 0.6 meters.
Vancouver - 1.1 meters.
New York - 1.2 meters.
Melbourne -0.6 meters.
Dehli - 0.8 meters

Typhoons affect Taiwan every summer, and people are usually well prepared. Morakot was different.

For some educated analysis of landslides have a good look around David Petley's On The Slide blog.

Names, names, names...

Taiwan could do much better (don't normally say it as politely as that) when romanizing - that is, writing Chinese words using 'English' letters. Several places in the news these days have been causing confusion:

Cishan ( 旗山 ) also written as Chishan, Qishan. Mistakenly not marked at all on the otherwise very good tourist maps of Taiwan - it's where all the roads meet.
Jiaxian (甲仙) also sometimes written as Chiashien, Jia Sian, Jiasian. Usually refers to the town, famous for it's taro products, but also the name of the township that includes Hsiaolin Village.
Liukuei (六龜) also written Liukuai, Liouguei.
Taoyuan (桃源) this remote township/village in, Kaohsiung County, happens to have the same name as the city just south of Taipei.
Namasiya (那瑪夏) also written as Namasia, Namasyia, Namaxia. This area until last year went by the name of Sanming (Sanmin).
Hsiaolin (小林) also written as Hsiao Lin, Shiao Lin, Xiaolin, Siaolin.
The Cishan River is the lower section of the Nantze Sian River.

As you see I'm pretty confused/have given up on the correct spellings too...see Pinyinnews for a sensible perspective.

And for you students of Chinese:
搶通 refers to the emergency (often rough) opening of roads.
堰塞湖 barrier lakes.

Morakot - and hiking.

2009-08-19T02:59:00.000-07:00

Morakot aftermath.

Firstly, thanks to everyone that has contacted me recently gingerly enquiring after my welfare. I (and my various immediate friends) are alive and well but shocked by the devastation in the areas we know and love so well. The destruction from Morokot is truly breathtaking and will be with us for a long time. I'm confident though in the Taiwanese people's ability to overcome the various challenges ahead.

If you know me, you know I'm pretty cynical about various groups aims and methods - but not the ones below. I encourage you to donate - money, goods or time.

Tzu Chi Foundation www.tzuchi.org.tw/
The Red Cross (Taiwan) www.web.redcross.org.tw/
World Vision Taiwan www.worldvision.org.tw/

The best way to help in the long term is to visit these valleys and mountains, buy their produce, take an interest in their issues, and let others know how beautiful it is here (promotion was mediocre before, let's change things!). Start planning now how you will encourage and support these communities in 3 months and 3 years time, not just 3 days time.

For the time being the mountains (both high and lower down) in the south will be closed. This includes all of Yushan National Park. The key approach roads, 21, 20, 18, 16 near the park have been damaged to varying degrees. Do not attempt to enter without permission, as well as being very dangerous, the authorities (rightfully) will have no patience with those flouting the law.

Obviously our fall schedule will have to be extensively revised. Some key trails may not be open for many months, if not years.

I will formulate a new schedule of hikes soon, and will post updates relating to trails on this page as I become aware of them. Do not go near these places until sure they are safe and your presence is not impeding rescue/recovery work.

Latest conditions (mid August 2009) based on various reports and personal experience:

Yushan (Jade Mountain) Main Peak trail: The approaches to the trailhead via Chaiyi/Alishan and Nantou/Shueili will be closed for many weeks at least. The actual trail is probably in reasonable condition. Permits applications will not be processed until October at the earliest.

Southern Cross-Island Highway (number 20): Extensive damage, will be impassable for many months if not years.

Alishan: Approach roads 18 and 21 are badly damaged and will remain closed for several weeks to, when opened will only be suitable for 4WD vehicles. Alishan Forest Railway badly damaged, may be several months before operational.

Namasia (formerly Sanming): Extensive damage, may be open by land to emergency vehicles in the next few weeks.
Jiaxian (Jaihsien) town: Badly damaged, open for emergency vehicles
Maolin, Wutai, Liokuei, Baolai, Laonung, Meinung, Tenjihr, Sanping Yellow/Purple butterfly valleys etc: Extensive damage to infrastructure, some places may be open for emergency traffic within days/weeks.

Jiaming (Chaiming, Meteor) Lake: Approach to trailhead will be closed for months. Trail reported to be badly damaged.

All long trails in or near Yushan Park such as the Southern Section Two/One/Three, Batongguan Trail etc : Approach roads closed, trails likely to be damaged (probably extensivly on the Dungpu to Batongguan Meadow/Guangao section), may remain closed for months.

Snow Mountain: Closed for the moment. Access to Wuling and Guanwu possible, but Sheipa National Park are not issuing permits for any of the mountains at the moment. Popular trail conditions likely to be fine. Dalu Forest Road leading to Daba probably damaged.

Jinshui Camp Historic trail: Reported to be badly damaged. May not be repaired for many many months.

Other trails: Assume most high mountains trails are either inaccessible, closed, or access being discouraged unless hearing otherwise.

Yushan Packing List

2009-06-23T03:16:00.000-07:00

This is the packing list for Barking Deer's standard hike of Yushan. For FAQs on this trip see the previous post http://barkingdeernews.blogspot.com/2009/06/yushan-faq.html Note, this list may NOT be appropriate for all other hikes.

These are the thing you should prepare: Tell us as soon as possible if there is anything you don't have, or are not sure about.

Light hiking pants (not cotton/never denim!)
Warm fleece pants - probably only in winter
Underwear/spare (ideally made for sports - not cotton)
Wide-brimmed hat
Warm hat
Warm gloves - optional, may be important in winter
Socks, 2 spare
Toilet paper - not tissue paper please
Headlight - fresh batteries
Inner layer breathable shirt (not cotton!)
2 fleece layers, one light, one heavy
Toothbrush - toothpaste
Sunblock
Rain jacket
Hiking boots - must be broken in and in good shape Remember most good shoes/boots are designed to disintegrate (for recycling purposes) after a couple years!
Personal medicine etc
Sleeping mat - if really needing extra softness at Paiyun.
Backpack - must have good hip belt
Backpack cover
Bags to waterproof spare clothing
Hiking poles - optional, but recommended.
Water bottles - 2 liters, don't have to fancy nalgene, just secure/reliable.
Cell phone optional, CH telecom best
Form of ID. Passport or ARC copy fine
Good/fun/positive attitude!

We will have these items - you probably don't need to duplicate:

First aid kit
Maps
Compass
Simple repair kit and other interesting things
Water-purifying gear
Penknife
GPS device
Walkietalkies

These items we will prepare for you - no need for you to bring along:

Food/Snacks
Stoves
Cooking gas
Pots
Spoons/Bowls/cups
Lighters
Snacks/Sports drink mix
Paperwork

Things you may want to bring:
Sandals to wear at camp
Shorts (not cotton)
Glasses (better than contact lenses)
Entertainment - reading material/mp3 player.
Camera-spare battery/memory card, dry bag
A small amount of your favorite snack. Remember we will provide snacks, best not to duplicate too much.

Things we don't usually bring but if you beg we will:
Binoculars

These things are not needed.

Pets
Crampons
Anything heavy/breakable/large that is not necessary
Rock climbing gear

Tip: Do some research on Diamox (Acetazolamide) and decide whether it is suitable for you in preventing/alleviating altitude sickness. We find it very useful, but WILL NOT SUPPLY it (and struggling here not to technically endorse). There is a very small chance of an allergic reaction - must be tried out at home well before hiking, and is contradicted for some people. Many hikers use viagra for the same purpose, again research yourself.

Yushan FAQ

2009-06-23T02:46:00.000-07:00

Yushan Standard FAQ'S

Note: this is an old post, some information is out of date. See more recent posts.

These are some of the most frequently asked questions I get asked relating to the standard (the most common - for 99% of people, to the main peak, from Tataka, staying at Paiyun Lodge) approach of Yushan (Jade Mountain) with Barking Deer Adventures.

Is this about the approach from Dungpu, from other parts of the park, staying at Yuanfong?
No, see above.

How can I sneak in?
This used to be both a feasible and condoneable option, but now is neither. It is difficult to do, and can rightfully get you into various kinds of trouble. Can't/won't help you.

What's this different permit stuff I hear? Class A?
To climb Yushan you need firstly a National Park permit and then a Police permit. For more info in this see http://barkingdeernews.blogspot.com/2008/09/mountain-permits-facts-and-opinions.html

Is it easy to get these?
The National park one can be very difficult, the police one relatively easy (just some annoying paperwork).

Can you help me do all this?
Yes of course - well try, not guarantee.

Can you get me a permit for this weekend?
No.

Can you get me a permit for next Monday/Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday?
Very unlikely.

How long in advance is it necessary to apply?
ideally 5 weeks.

How can we improve our chances of winning the lottery?
Choose mid-week days to hike. Avoid weekends and holidays - often less than 1 in 20 chance of getting the lottery.

I've heard there is an permit mid-week allotment for foreigners?
The allowance seems to have been canceled, still mid-week seems to be easier for foreign visitors.

Does getting a permit mean I have a guaranteed space in Paiyun Lodge?
Yes.

Isn't all this permit stuff a pain in the rear?
Yes, not only for foreigners but for Taiwanese hikers. Improvements do happen though, it's moving in the right direction.

Can I get a National Park permit at the trailhead?
No. You can get a 'Police' (入山 ru-shan) permit there, but first you must have your hands on the 'National Park' (入園 ru-yuan) one.

Why can't I bring my own tent and just find a spot to put it up instead of staying at Paiyun Lodge?
This the most controlled trail in Taiwan, permits are only issued based upon staying in Paiyun Lodge or one of their tents outside. Any unauthorized camping will be noticed and stopped. If you just want to go camping consider other destinations. Same for campfires - won't happen on this route.

If we don't get the permit for Yushan what do you suggest?
Consider Snow Mountain, Taiwan's second highest, or any of the hundreds of other peaks in Formosa.

Yushan doesn't sound right for me, I'm too unfit to hike more than a couple minutes from my car, where can I experience high peaks?Drive across the cross-island highways and hike ponder the views at Taroko, Hehuan and Yakao http://barkingdeernews.blogspot.com/2008/10/southern-cross-highway.html

Where do you suggest I hike around Taipei?
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to the excellent trails near Taipei. Look out for Richard Saunder's 'Taipei Day Hikes' books, or read Robert Kelly's blog http://hikingintaiwan.blogspot.com/
What do I need to bring?Here is the list.

What training should I do for Yushan?
Any good aerobic exercise seems to do the trick. The best thing is to do some actual hiking - ideally in your hiking gear...on hills. Imagine!

Must I watch the 'safety' video at the Tataka checkpoint?
Yes, unless you can prove you have watched it online (in Chinese) at http://www.ysnp.gov.tw/
Will the trail be crowded? Will we be stuck in a line of people like Mount Fuji?
No. At very most (often less) there will about 100 people going up the 10km trail on any one day. Most are in groups of 10-20 and rarely hold you up more than a couple seconds. Most foreign hikers feel there are not many people encountered.

What about the other parts of the national park (not on this trip)?
It is very common to walk several days in pristine wilderness without meeting anyone else.

How long does it take to hike it?
First day, 4-6 hours to Paiyun for most people. Second day 2-3 hours to the summit, 1-2 down to Paiyun, and 2-3 hours back to the trailhead.

Are there any wild animals to worry about?
No.

What about the Formosan Black Bear?
I spotted one once on this trail a long time ago, it was mid-week and I was alone. It is very unlikely you will encounter one. They are much more afraid of humans than we of them - NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT! To have a better chance of seeing them (or signs of them) it is better to arrange a hike into the remote bear reserve at Dafen.

Other animals?
Looking down into the valleys you may spot Sanbar deer. In the evening, especially lower down you may hear the distinctive call (bark) of the small Barking Deer (Muntiacus reevesi). Around Paiyun it is not uncommon to encounter Chinese Weasels, and the Yellow-throated marten. At the West Peak pavilion, the popular lunch spot, there are several squirrels (and sometimes monkeys) roaming - do not feed them. The Taiwan (Yushan) Laughing Thrush is not shy and can be encountered up close in many places. Also look out for the Vinaceous Rosefinch and Alpine Accentor. Snakes very very rare at this altitude - never seen one.

Crime issues?
Very safe, can't honestly think of anything to worry about.

Can we reserve certain spaces in Paiyun Cabin?
The bunk spaces have been allotted randomly by computer when the permit was issued. The warden on duty may use his discretion and put you in a better location. Be polite, but don't expect special treatment. Keep in mind, for many people arriving at Paiyun this is the toughest/coldest/hottest/most emotional/tedious thing they've ever done. The wardens and guides struggle magnificently keeping everyone happy at such close quarters.

What is the wooden cabin on the western side of the main Paiyun Cabin? Can we stay there?
It is an emergency medical center. No one stays there, though there are rumors about converting it into general accommodation.

What is Paiyun Lodge like?
Could be better...will be posting a detailed description here on the blog soon.

Isn't Paiyun Lodge a bit substandard?
Depends on how you look at it. It works OK at the moment but the park is aware it does not come up to most people's expectations. There are plans to have it completely re-built in the next 2 years.

Are the cabins deeper in the park the same?
No. The new A-frame cabins in the remoter parts of the park are in many ways more modern - and usually completely empty.

How many times have you hiked Yushan?
Not sure exactly. Around 30 times.

Does it get boring?
Er, no. Confucius said...

What's your favorite trail/mountain in Taiwan?
Anything that involves Dafen.

Are their any shortcuts?
This is the shortest route.

Should I be worried about altitude?
Staying a night (as we do) at Tataka helps you adjust. Also research Diamox.

What if I am too exhausted/ill on the trail?
You will never be forced up the trail. We have plans in place to deal with most scenarios other than alien invasion.

Can you arrange oxygen?Very unlikely you will need it. Paiyun has some for emergencies.

Can I hire a porter?
With our standard package you will not be carrying much - personal gear, some snacks. Porters usually cost between $3-4000NT per day. If you really think you need help, discuss with me what needs arranged.

Can I drive myself to the trailhead?
Yes. Are you sure how to get there? Are you sure you will be fit to drive home?

What is the best time to hike Yushan?
You can hike it all year round but fall (autumn) and spring are best. Summer can be wet or permits can be canceled at the last minute due to typhoons. Winter can be good too - less people sometimes, but the park closes the main peak if too icy or snowy, and for a month around Chinese New Year.

Can I bring my dog?
No. This is an environmentally sensitive area, the wardens will never allow your hound up.

This contradicts information I read elsewhere, who is right?
Probably me. There is a lot of nonsense written about hiking Yushan. If I say so myself, this is the most accurate and up to date. Email me if you think I'm wrong.

Can you supply more details about the trail?
If you're not in contact with me already, email me at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com.

Hiking Glossary

2009-06-22T19:50:00.000-07:00

How easy is it to hike without speaking Chinese?

All Taiwanese study English in school but the results are mixed, the further from Taipei you go the worse it seems to get. While some will be eager to try out their English and be fairly fluent, many others will be shy and will struggle with even the simplest phrases. If encountering problems communicating, speak clearly (in normal sentences), or try writing things down. Some people also speak some Japanese.

Considering how few foreigners come here to actually make use of them, there is an admirable level of effort put into providing facilities that have some version of English translation. Most road signs and trail markers are written in both Chinese and English. Unfortunately quality topographical hiking maps are only available in Chinese, we can on a case-to-case basis provide maps annotated with English. Email barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Romanization - the use of 'English' letters to represent Chinese words, is an embarrassing mess in Taiwan. Do not be surprised to see multiple spellings of the same place. One of the most notorious examples being Shei Shan/Xue Shan/Syue Shan/Hsieh Shan/HsuehShan (Snow Mountain). Taiwan's government is slowly and haphazardly adopting the internationally-recognized Hanyu system.

Taiwanese are pleased to hear visitors trying (even if with little success) to speak Chinese. Here I list some phrases and terms that may be useful when hiking in Taiwan. Some are for anyone to try anytime, some are for problem situations, and some may only be of interest to students of Chinese. Please remember some of these terms may not translate directly with the same connotion or emphasis, or may be used differently in English/Chinese. Also included are a couple examples of inaccurate or misleading items sometimes written on signs.

Hiking Glossary

Chinese, pinyin, Meaning, other comments

Try these phrases out on the trail. Some you are likely to hear quite often.

加油 jiāyóu Add oil. This is a friendly phrase of encouragement. It literally means 'add oil', and is a greeting sometimes translated as 'Go! Go!'.

早安 zǎoān or just 早 zǎo Good morning.

謝謝 xièxie Thank-you. There is no reason to leave good manners behind at home.

你先過 nǐ xiān guò You (come/go) pass by first. When passing on the trail.

介過 jiè guò Excuse me. - if asking to get by someone one the trail.

小心 xiǎoxīn Careful!

慢走 mànzǒu Literally 'slow walk', a polite farewell greeting.

快到了 kuài dào le You'll be there soon!

好重/好輕 hǎo chóng/hǎo qīng - Very heavy/Very light!

辛苦了 xīn kǔ le So hard! Used to encourage people.

走吧 zǒu ba Let's walk/go! you may often also hear the more glutteral Taiwanese 'gya!'.

Oo-ni-nan Is 'thank-you' or 'Hello' in the Bunung language (The tribe most high-mountain porters and many national park people belong to). Few non-Bunun will know this phrase, and using it (with Bunun) will be appreciated.

Common geographical and mountain related nouns.
Natural and man-made.

山 shān Mountain - as in Yushan - Jade Mountain.

水 shuǐ Water. Learn to recognize this one!

河/溪 hé /xī River/Stream. Often streams are described as rivers, and vice versa.

百岳 bǎi yuè Refers to the Top 100 mountains in Taiwan. It is common to ask accomplished hikers how many of the Bai-yue they have climbed.

嶺線 lǐng xiàn Ridge line. Also 稜線 is sometimes used.

水源 shuǐyuán Water source

鞍部 ānbù Coll/saddle. A low point on a ridge. Sometimes you will see colls described as "Anbu" on signs.

主峰 zhǔ fēng Main peak.

山頭 shāntóu, 山頂 shāndǐng Summit, or top of a hill/mountain. Or 最高點 zuìgāodiǎn Higest point.

避風處 bìfēngchù Sheltered (from the wind) location.

峭壁 qiàobì Cliff.

崩壁 bēng bì Collapsed cliff (usually loose).

亂石崩壁 luànshí bēng bì Loose rock/scree cliff - sometimes not avoidable in Taiwan.

滴水 dīshuǐ Dripping water (a cabin roof, a water source etc).

dwan ai - 'broken ridge' a cliff, a path over a very steep slope

河床 héchuáng River/stream bed.

活水源 huó shuǐyuán Flowing water source, literally 'living water'.

黑水池 hēishuǐ chí Literally 'Black water pond', small ponds, often shared with animals - an inferior water source. Also 看天池 kàn tiān chí something similar, without so many negative conatations.

山脈 shānmài Mountain Range as in 中央山脈 zhōngyāng shānmài - the Central Mountain Range.

峽谷 xiágǔ Valley.

瘦嶺 shòulǐng Narrow ridge. Also 瘦稜.

圍谷 wéi gǔ Glacial Cirque or combe.

山溝 shāngōu Gully or ravine.

湖/池 hú /chí Lake or pond, see also 潭/塘/溏 tán /táng /táng refering to, usually, smaller ponds.

森林 sēnlín Forest.

叢林 cónglín Jungle.

山洞 shāndòng Cave.

水庫 shuǐkù Reseviour.

瀑布 pùbù Waterfall.

展望點 zhǎnwàng diǎn Viewpoint.

溪溝 xī gōu Stream gully.

下游 xiàyóu Downstream.

溫泉 wēnquán Hotspring.

溪流域 xīliú yù Stream/river catchment area.

塌方/坍塌 tāfāng/tāntā Landslide.

崩塌 bēngtā To collapse.

沿途 yántú Along the way.

高山 gāoshān High Mountains.

溪畔 xī pàn, 溪邊 xī pàn Stream bank.

合流 héliú Convergence (of rivers etc).

石頭 shítou Stone.

大草原/平原 dàcǎoyuán /píngyuán Alpine meadow, or sometimes a flatish area described as 'field'

橫斷 héngduàn Cross-sectional Ridge.

假山頭 jiǎshān tóu False summit.

群峰 qún fēng A group of summits or peaks.

白木林 Bái Mùlín White forest, a term describing an area damaged by fire, where the resulting dead trees have been weathered white or silver.

連峰 Lián Fēng Connected peaks.

黑森林 hēi sēnlín Black Forest, a term for mature forests with a thick canopy - darkening the forest floor.

天池 tiān chí Heaven lake, many high-elevation lakes are named this. Often have become places of pilgrimage.

坑 kēng A hole or some kind of depression, often used in names of places.

Copyright Barking Deer Adventures. For permission to copy barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

And of a more human connection.

直升機停機坪 zhíshēngjī tíngjīpíng Helipad "apron".

山徑 shān jìng Mountain trail or 路徑.

林道 Lín Dào Forest road or logging road, these trails are, or at one time were, usable by 4-wheeled vehicles. Many abandoned now.

登山口 dēngshān kǒu Trail head, also often translated on signs as, 'hiking entrance' or 'climbing mouth/gate'.

階梯 jiētī Ladder also sometime steep steps.

露營地 lòuyíngdi or just 營地 yíngdi Campsite

空地 kōng dì Empty space/land.

山屋 shān wū Mountain Shelter. Note: the words 'shelter, hut, lodge, cottage, cabin and villa' are used interchangeably on signs/maps, in reference to various kinds of structure - from the most basic to palatial.

山莊 shān zhuāng Lodge (as in Paiyun Lodge) or cabin, sometimes translated as 'mountain village'! Usually similar to the term above, but also used in reference to hostels, and various other places to rest your head.

工寮 gōng liáo Work station, usually refers to a very simple cabin or hut.

鐵皮屋 tiěpí wū Tin/metal-roofed cabin.

獵寮 liè liáo Hunters' shelter.

涼亭 liángtíng Pagoda or pavilion, sometimes translated as 'shed'.

駐在所 zhù zài suǒ A station, often refering to the remains of colonial-era Japanese police stations.

三角點 sānjiǎo diǎn Triangulation point the best being 一等 yī děng first class.

Forest summit

木樁 mù zhuāng Wooden marker posts.

古道 gǔ dào Historic road or trail.

交界 jiāojiè Common border or boundary between two places such as counties.

繞路 ràolù Detour or to detour.

岔路 chà lù Intersection.

痕跡 hénjì Mark or trace as in Leave No Trace.

遺址 yízhǐ The remains of something such as a building.

中途 zhōngtú On the way (location).

橋樑 Bridge or just 橋 qiáo.

吊橋 diàoqiáo Suspension bridge.

木棧 mù zhàn Wooden bridge.

棧橋 zhàn qiáo 'ferry bridge' or gangplank.

防火道 fánghuǒ dào firebreak.

路跡 lù jì track often faint.

捷徑 jiéjìng Shortcut.

水塔 shuǐ tǎ Water tank.

隧道 suìdào Tunnel.

水壩 shuǐbà Dam.

開墾地 kāikěn dì Area cleared for cultivation.

果園 guǒyuán Orchard.

廚房 chúfáng Kitchen.

廁所 cèsuǒ Toilet, WC, bathroom.

浴室 yùshì Shower Room, bathroom.

標誌 biāo jǐn * A sign, marker, indicator, also 指標 zhǐbiāo.

座 zuò The measure word for mountain and bridges.

三岔路口 sān chà lùkǒu A three way intersection.

終點 zhōngdiǎn End point.

Off the mountain:

民宿 mín sù Guest house, or B&B.

救國團 jiù guó tuán The China Youth Corps, run most of the hostels.

飯店/賓館 fàndiàn/bbbbguǎn Hotel.

通鋪 tōng pū Dorm bed or dorm room.

遊客中心遊kè zhōngxīn Visitor center.

加油站 jiāyóuzhàn Gas station.

Copyright Barking-deer.com

國家公園 guójiā gōngyuán National Park.

林務局 Lín Wùjú The Forestry Department.

警察局 jǐngchájú Police Station, also 派出所 pàichūsuǒ for sub-stations.

村莊/城市 cūnzhuāng /chéngshì Village/town.

停車場 tíngchēchǎng Car park.

高速公路 gāosùgōnglù Freeway.

公路 gōnglù Public road or highway.

遊憩區 Recreation Area.

保護區 bǎohùqū Protected area.

People:

管理員 guǎnlǐyuán Warden or caretaker.

挑夫 tiāofū Porter also sometimes the term 山青 shān qīng.

警察 jǐngchá Police.

登山客 dēngshān kè Hiker/trekker.

領隊 lǐngduì Leader (as in team leader).

原住民 yuánzhùmín Aboridigine/indigeneous person.

隊伍 duìwǔ Team or (hiking) group.

遊客 Visitor/traveler.

嚮導 Guide.

隊員 duìyuán Team member.

研究調查人員 yánjiū diàochárényuán Researcher.

搜救隊伍 sōujiù duìwǔ Search and rescue team.

農夫 nóngfū Farmer.

替代役 tìdài yì Alternative (Military) Service Officer. These are young men doing their compulsory service with the National Parks or Forestry Department instead of the army etc. Have found them to be quite helpful.

山友 shān yǒu 'Mountain friends' usually referring to people that like to visit the mountains.

病患 bìnghuàn Patient.

留守人 liú shǒu rén The person left behind at home, holding the fort to alert authorities of any emergency - or the authorities to alert. Next of kin.

支援 zhīyuán Support.

Hundreds more phrases and words coming soon...working on the details...trying not to go mad...ask me if you want to copy this...

Mountain Permit Forms

2009-06-22T03:20:00.000-07:00

Taiwan Mountain Permit Forms

I've uploaded some of the most useful forms required by the police when applying for Mountain Permits. Clicking on the links brings you to the Scribd site (don't worry if the they look garbled here) click on 'download' - choose 'Word' - their original format rather than pdf. Tell me if you are having problems with the Chinese fonts, I may be able to provide a jpg image file to print instead.

Please note: these are the forms used when applying for Mountain permits (入山 ru-shan) NOT National Park permits (which must be obtained beforehand if planning to hike on the national park trails), see my previous effort to explain all this at http://barkingdeernews.blogspot.com/2008/09/mountain-permits-facts-and-opinio ns.html Each of these documents has a simple itinerary (add dates, adjust as necessary); the required comments regarding equipment, behavior, the environment; and a simple route map. Don't worry too much about the details - the main thing is the police officers see a familiar piece of paper when dealing with the scary foreign face. You, of course, would not be depending on these maps would you?

At most trailheads you will need to have ready 3 (4 if arriving at a National Park+ the Nat Park Permit) documents : 1. application form, 2. name list (any clear list usually works, not needed if you are alone) and 3. these forms below. Some forms I have translated less - for those trails that should only be led by a Chinese speaker/reader, or details that are more than obvious.

1.The Application Form. http://www.scribd.com/doc/16702636/foreigner-permit-app-form

2. Name List. http://www.scribd.com/doc/16702887/Police-name-list

3. The 'other information' form.

Jiaming Lake http://www.scribd.com/doc/15317496/Jiaming-lake-3day

Yushan Southern Sub-peaks http://www.scribd.com/doc/16695451/Yushan-southern-peaks

Yushan single-day ascent, note this option has not been generally available since June 2010 http://www.scribd.com/doc/16695900/Yushan-oneday-ascent

Yushan 5-day Peakbagging http://www.scribd.com/doc/16699032/Yushan-5Day-Peak-Bagging

Yushan peakbagging excluding south peaks http://www.scribd.com/doc/16699222/Yushan-Minor-Summits

Yushan + North peak http://www.scribd.com/doc/16699314/Yushan-North-Summit

Taoshan + Kahlahei http://www.scribd.com/doc/16700381/Taoshan-Kalahei-2day

Taoshan 2-day http://www.scribd.com/doc/16701710/Taoshan-Single-Day

Wuling Quadruple http://www.scribd.com/doc/16702054/Wuling-Quadruple-3day

Yushan + traverse via Batongguan http://www.scribd.com/doc/16702442/Yushan-traverse-via-Batongguan

Southern Cross '3 stars' http://www.scribd.com/doc/16703253/Southern-Cross-Trimountains

Snow Holy Ridge http://www.scribd.com/doc/16703345/Snow-O-Holy-Ridge-Clockwise-via-Cuichr-4day

Snow Standard 2-day http://www.scribd.com/doc/16703568/Snow-Standard-2day

Snow Standard or to Cichr http://www.scribd.com/doc/16703840/Snow-Standard-3day-or-to-Cuichr

Snow Dashaiuo Jian http://www.scribd.com/doc/16704217/Snow-Dashiou-Jian

This is too tedious to finish right now - will add more/tidy up soon

Jiaming Lake DIY

2009-06-17T07:47:00.000-07:00

April 2010 Note: this route remains closed for the time being due to the devastation caused by Typhoon Morakot in August 2009. We will report any changes on this blog.

Jiaming Meteor Lake,(嘉明湖 aka Jai-ming-hu, Chiaming Lake, Angel's Tear 天使的眼淚)

Highlights: Jiaming Meteor Lake, 2 of the 'top 100' peaks; Siangyang (向陽山) 3,602m, Sancha (三叉山)3,496m.
Time required: Ideally 3 days, possible in 2.
Relevant Map: Sun River's (上河)TM 19 or the Forestry Bureau's Jiaming map.
YDS Rating: Virtually all maintained Class 1 with small sections of Class 2
Our difficulty rating: 2-3 stars.
Permits required: Police permit only.
Additional updates and support: barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com
Trail starts: Siangyang (Hsiangyang) Forest Recreation Area, 2,300m elevation, 154 km mark Southern Cross Highway
Trail ends: At starting point.

This is a popular (avoid weekends) hike for good reasons. This elliptical lake (120 meters long, 80 meters wide and 10 meters deep) is in the crater formed some 4–10 thousand years ago by a meteor strike, making it possibly the youngest meteor lake on Earth - even more remarkable as only about 100 meteor pits have been found around the world, and this one is on such a young island. Located high (3,310m) in the mountains near where Kaohsiung and Hualien counties meet (yes, they do meet, not many people realize that) and on the edge of Yushan National Park. The trail is generally easy to hike and is well signposted all the way.

This is also the the initial part of the longer Sinkang Mountain and Southern Second Section hikes. Siangyang Recreation Area, very often shrouded in thick mist, consists only of a police station and visitor center. Ask at the checkpoint for information in English for the wide well-maintained trails running through the forest of Taiwan Pine and Cypress behind the visitor center - suitable for everyone (no permits required). Much of this area is within the Guanshan Major Wildlife Habitat.

Day 1:Siangyang Trailhead (向陽山登山口) to Jiaming Lake Cabin (嘉明湖避難山屋). 5+ hours.

If you wish, it is possible to spend an easier first day hiking the 4.5 km/2 hours to the excellent Siangyang Cabin (向陽工寮). Additionally, your second day could be focused on getting to, and camping by, the actual lake - skipping the now less-than-salubrious Jiaming Cabin.

We start at Siangyang (Hsiangyang, Xiangyang) Forest Recreation Area, 2,300m, 154 km mark Southern Cross Highway (Number 20). 9 kilometers east of Yakou Tunnel. After dealing with any permit issues at the police station (also possible to apply for the police permit at Meishan) and passing the small checkpoint, hike 300 meters up the surfaced road to the visitor center. Right behind the center follow the signs for the Songtao (松濤) Trail and the lake. The way by the Songyang (松陽) trail is a little shorter but steeper and more tiring. At the 1.5 km point on the forest path there is an excellent spot to view the nearby peaks including two of the Southern Stars. Pass a pavilion and hiking another couple kilometers you come to the trailhead proper with the sign for 'Jaiming Lake 10.9km'. It's about 90 minutes from the checkpoint to here.

An hour's hiking through a forest of hemlock will bring you to the large and well built Siangyang Cabin. Both this shelter and the Jaiming Lake one cannot be officially reserved, at popular times (such as weekends) hiking groups will send people ahead to block up spaces. The water supply here is reliable and in the dry season it may be necessary to carry water for the section from here to the next shelter - ask hikers coming down or look out for the sign sometimes placed on the trail reminding you.

From here it is another 3.9 km to the Jiaming Lake shelter. Hemlock and dwarf bamboo will start to appear mixed in with Taiwan pine. A mediocre campsite just before the ridge - can be damp in rainy weather. Erosion means this section of trail is somewhat unclear. After making it to the ridge N23 16 16 E120 59 14, 3280m, and a space for a couple tents, turn left (N NW). Views are expansive and the path meanders through trimmed (short) dwarf bamboo, and small groves of rhododendron, juniper and Formosan Rose. On the west side of the small, but prominent and signposted juniper, are a couple excellent camping spaces. Avoid getting too close to this famous tree, the many people that have posed next to it have caused damage to its roots.

It is your choice if you want to peer down at Yakou Hostel over the rim of an enormous landslide around the 6 km mark. Some cell phone coverage around here. Between the 5 and 6 km mark there are various spots to camp, some good, some bad. Remember at the place marked 1.4km from Jaiming Shelter do NOT take the trails leading westwards (left). Around the 6.5km mark there is an intersection (3,500 m), packs may be left here for a climb of Siangyang peak (向陽山, 3,602m). The Shrdong Campsite (石洞營地) that appears on various maps and documents, are only a couple bad spots to camp before the cabin.

Note: the Jiaming Lake shelter, 3,350 meters, is still a long way from the actual lake. Recently the cabin has an overused feel to it, and is more functional than romantic. Camping near the cabin is far from ideal, if using a tent consider your options some distance either to the north or south. Water supply is from roof runoff and a small hillside spring nearby is adequate except in winter when it freezes up. Be prepared to haul water from either the lake or Siangyang Cabin. Reportedly there is a water source a 30 minute hike down the hill from the cabin, route unclear. Again, try to confirm in advance the recent water situation here.

Just north of Jiaming Cabin is another, more difficult, path to the summit of Siangyang that passes through tall dwarf bamboo and rocks.

Day 2: Jiaming Cabin (嘉明湖避難山屋), via Siangyang North peak, and Sancha Mountain (三叉山) to Jiaming Lake (嘉明湖) and back to Jaiming Lake shelter. 6 hours.

North from the Cabin there will be signs indicating distances to Sancha (Sanchao) Mountain - about 4 Kilometers ahead. The trail is fairly pleasant as it weaves around many of the peaks along the ridge line. On the north side of the ridge there may be cell-phone coverage. 1 kilometer from the lake the trail splits, N 23° 17 39, E 121 01 22 , left for Sancha summit, right for the lake. Is is also quite possible to come straight down from the Sancha's spacious summit to the lake - all well signposted. Sancha Mountain means 'intersection mountain' as this is where, three major routes meet - north (Southern Second Section), south (this trail, and Southern First Section) and east (to Sinkang Mountain).

700 meters further along where the four trails meet again, N23 17 46 E 121 01 56, near a helipad, is called Sancha-sha camping area. Good flat areas but lots of exposure to the elements. From here the lake is visible 300 meters ahead. If more adventurous (and have the pertinent national permits sorted out) this is where to set of northwards for the week-long Southern Second Section and Sinkang routes.

Top tip: Don't bring on a heart attack by jumping into the icy water while still hot and sweaty. If you decide to camp next to the lake be aware there is little shelter from the wind and sun rays reflected of the water surface. If possible use the slightly sheltered area, away from the lake, on the eastern side. Be responsible, ensure with you choice of toilet - go over the watershed. High chance of Sanbar deer coming by in the evening.

Day 3: Jiaming Cabin to the trailhead by the same same route.

Nenggao-Andongjun

2009-06-17T06:42:00.000-07:00

This new 6-day hike, sometimes known as the Northern Third Section ( 北三段), will be led by me (Richard) and a highly experienced local guide.

This central part of the main spine of Taiwan is famous for its lakes, 'alpine meadows', and sanbar deer. Hikers must have experience of multiple-day hiking and be in above average shape. Day 5 and 6 involve river crossings. Porter support will be available. Five of the 3000+ meter 'Top 100' peaks (百岳) are on this route: Nenggao (能高山), Nenggao South (能高南峰), Guangtou (Bald, 光頭山) Baishr (白石山), Andongjyun (安東軍山) with the possibility of Cilai South (奇萊南峰) and Nanhua (南華山) being squeezed in on day 1. After day 1 it is very possible we will not encounter any other hikers.

The first day's hiking with heavy loads is on the wide and well-maintained Nenggao trail to Tienchr Cabin located near the main spine. About 6 hours hiking.

Day 2-5 follows a simple trail through dwarf bamboo southwards along the central range.

Day 2 over Nenggao Peak camping next to the small 'Taiwan Pond' - guess it's shape... About 6 hours hiking.

Day 3: This is the longest day involving up to 11 hours hiking. Camping next to Baishr Lake.

Day 4: An easy 4 hours over Baishr Mountain brings us to the campsite at Tunlu Lake.

Day 5: Up to 8 hours if choosing to summit Andungjyun Mountain, dropping down and camping next to Aowanda stream.

Day 6: 8 hours hiking along the Aowanda River and exit at Aowanda National Forest Reserve and return home!

'Typical' Yushan

2009-06-01T19:11:00.000-07:00

Excuse the random positioning of photos for the time being - review of a typical (really no such thing) Yushan ascent. Let's start with the main target - the summit.
Conditions on top vary immensely, from hot, sunny to bitterly cold cloud.
In most places the trail is smooth and flat.

Most people stop for a minute or two at this cliff that shows signs of once being part of a seabed.

Numerous bridges traverse steep areas.

This short eroded section very near the start is the most difficult 30 seconds on Day 1. If can deal with this, you will have no problems elsewhere.

The final exposed approach to the summit. There are always chains to hold onto if desired.

Eating outside at Paiyun Lodge.

Porter-cooked food is usually excellent. Vegetarian options are available.

If you are lucky the kitchen becomes an underground entertainment center.

How it should be - usually is.

The caged section 20 minutes from the summit provides protection from any falling rocks.

It is, of course, required to pause for a photo at the trailhead.

The last hour before the summit, less oxygen, fewer trees.

It's really not as scary as it looks.

When you get to the top go wild with your camera. Many people don't, and regret it later.

The scenery is always changing along the way as you enter and leave various forest types.

The most popular lunch spot - the West Peak/White Forest Pavilion. It's sheltered, and usually has excellent views of the southern ridge peaks. Eco-toilets nearby.

The hostel at Tataka, near the trailhead, is simple but functional and clean.

Fall 2009 - Spring 2010 Hike Schedule.

2009-06-01T06:38:00.000-07:00

These are the scheduled, guided hikes for the next few months. For information on customized trips, or advice on doing things by yourself, contact me at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com.

These trips involve summiting half of Taiwan's 'top 100' peaks, and traversing most of the best-known high routes in the South including two thirds of the main Central Mountain Range spine.

September.

Daba Jian (大霸尖山) from the North ridge.
2nd evening - 6th evening.
This is the 4-day approach from Hsinchu County to the famous barrel-shaped mountain.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain).
8th evening - 10th evening. Note, permits must be applied for before August 5th.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Badasiou (八大秀) +Yushan main peak.
12th evening - 17th.
5 days along the western section of the Batongguan trail to the spine and back - includes summiting of Shiouguran Mountain (秀姑巒山), the highest peak in the central range, and a side-trip to Yushan's Main Peak.

Nengao Trail and Cilai South (能高奇萊南峰).
18th evening - 20th evening.
Fantastic historic trail to the spine of Taiwan.

Snow Mountain (雪山, Syueshan, and many other names...)
22nd to 24th evening
The standard approach to Taiwan's second highest peak. May consider Wuling Quadruple peaks 武陵四秀

Jiaming Meteor Lake (嘉明湖)
25th evening - 28th (Teachers' day) evening.

October.

Chitsai Lake and Hioushun Mountain (七彩湖六順山).
1st - 5th. Long mid-autumn festival weekend.
Hike to the spine of Taiwan from Hualian County.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain).
6th evening - 8th evening. Note, permits must be applied for before September 2nd.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

The Southern Stars (南橫三星).
9th evening - 11th evening.
The peaks of the Southern Cross-island highway. May do Guan Shan (關山, Kuan Shan) if requested.

November.

Beidawu (北大武山, North Dawu)
2nd morning - 3rd evening.
The most southerly of Taiwan's 'top 100' peaks.

Nenggao-Antongjyun Traverse (能高安東軍縱走)
4th evening 10th evening.
Up the Nenggao Trail, south along the spine, and exiting at Aowanda. See http://barkingdeernews.blogspot.com/2009/06/nenggao-andongjun.html for more detail.

Snow Holy Ridge (聖稜線)
11th night - 15th night.
The circular 'O' route. Fast, tough, not for those with vertigo.

Badasiou (八大秀)
19th evening - 23rd night.
Up the western section of the Batongguan trail to the spine and back - includes summiting of Shiouguran Mountain (秀姑巒山), the highest peak in the central range, and a possible extra day (to be decided) side-trip to Yushan's Main Peak.

Private trip.
25th - 29th

December.

Danda Cross-Island/Southern Third Section (丹大橫斷/南三段)
November 30th - December 10th.
One of the longest cross-island routes - tough.

Baolai Hot-spring river trace.
11th evening -13th night.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain).
14th evening - 16th evening. Note, permits must be applied for before November 11th.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

The Batongguan Trail (八通關越嶺).
17th evening - 24th.
Our favorite destination!The entire historic cross-island trail from the west, across the main spine, via the Formosan Bear research station at Dafen, exiting by Walami. See Robert Kelly's blog for an excellent write-up.
OR
Dafen Bear Reserve and hot springs.
3 days hiking in to the Bear Reserve Station on the stunning Walami (eastern end of the Batongguan) trail. Spend 2 days at Dafen exploring the nearby hot-spring and Japanese-era ruins, exit over 2 days.

Dawu Ghost Lakes
December 28th - January 2nd.
The last possible home of the Clouded Leopard.

2010 January.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain).
3rd evening - 5th evening. Note, permits must be applied for before November 30th.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Southern Second Section (南二段), exiting via Yushan Main Peak .
6th evening - 13th night.
Follow the spine of Taiwan through Yushan National Park, from Jiaming Lake to the Main Peak.

Beidawu (北大武山 North Dawu)
16th morning - 17th evening.
The most southerly of Taiwan's 'top 100' peaks.

Sinkang Ridge (新康)
18th - 25th
From the Jiaming Lake, over Sinkang, exiting via the Walami trail.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain).
27th evening - 29th evening. Note, permits must be applied for before December 25th. Main summit likely to be closed for the month of February.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Sinwangling Mountain or the Jinshuiing Trail (浸水營 Jinshui Camp).
30th morning - 31st evening.
Either the not-very-famous forested peak in the Sanming/Namaysia Valley of Kaohsiung County. Or the lush Japanese-era trail between Taidung and Pingdung. Will confirm later.

February.

Snow Mountain via Sikayo (Jhihjiayan) Mountain (志佳陽雪山)
1st evening - 4th night.
The original approach to the mountain. Descend via the East Peak.
OR
Snow Mountain North Peak and Cuichr Pond, checking out the dragon's spine and glacial cirques (combes) of the area.

Baigu Mountain (白姑大山).
5th evening - 8th evening.
The rarely rarely climbed, south of the Snow Range, made more inaccessible by the 921 earthquake.

The Mapo (Mapolass) Ridge Traverse (馬博橫斷)
12th - 19th.
High and challengeing. Away from the New Year noise and boredom.

Jiaming Meteor Lake (嘉明湖)
22th evening - 25 evening.

Siluan Dashan (西巒大山)
26th evening - 28th evening.

March.

Yanshui Fireworks (鹽水蜂炮)
Not our usual sort of trip. We will spend the main night of the festival in Yanshui (Yenshui) for this adrenalin and smoke-laced event.
..... ............ ..............

Some other hikes that we really hope can be scheduled in closer to the time, but depend on typhoons, snow, and various other - more human - factors:

Cilai East Ridge (奇萊東稜). The epic 6-day from Hehuan right down into Taroko Gorge.
Snow West Ridge (雪山西稜). The, still technically/terminally closed, 7-day route exiting at Dasyueshan.
Nanhu Dashan (南湖大山). The 3-day wintery Northeastern beauty...and other peaks in the area.
Southern First Section (南一段). The 6-day ridge, lacking in water, south of Yushan Nat. Park
Jyunda (郡大). 2 days for views of the best peaks in the center of Taiwan.
Gandzwowan (干卓萬).The approach from Aowanda.

Please note: Dates and other details listed here are liable to change for various reasons. Will try to keep things updated! These trips are of the standard hiking sort - each hiker carries a proportion of the team's gear, portering not standard, some rough conditions and danger to be expected. You should only attempt activities that you have the appropriate experience and ability to deal with. Much better to spend 5 days doing a 3-day hike and then some relaxing, than giving yourself 5 days of torture.

Yushan DIY package.

2009-04-24T01:46:00.000-07:00

Yushan (Jade Mountain) Service

Starting May 2009, we offer a new support package for hikers wishing to climb Yushan's main peak by the standard route by themselves. This covers everything you will need for a successful ascent (except the actual walking!) and is actually cheaper than attempting to organize any other way.

This service includes the arrangement and cost of the following:

Application for Permits, both National Park, and Police (Mountain Entry). To give you the best chance of getting the National Park permit (oversubscribed, and often decided by lottery) we strongly recommend you choose to hike from Monday to Friday, and contact us at least a month in advance. Applications later than this, and for weekends are very very difficult.

Book accommodation at Paiyun Lodge

Accommodation and food (dinner and breakfast) at the hostel at Tataka.

Full instructions in English on how to do the climb by yourself, topographical map with English annotation.

Sleeping bag rental at Paiyun.

Three meals prepared at Paiyun. Dinner (usually rice, 3 veg, 3 meat, 1 soup, 1 fruit), early breakfast before summit climb (rice congee etc), and breakfast after summiting (usually noodles-based). Tell us if you need vegetarian options.

Transport to the trailhead at Tataka from transport hubs in Southern Taiwan (normally Chaiyi High Speed Rail station).

Shuttle bus from Tataka to the actual trailhead.

Assistance in applying for certificate of climbing.

Full email and telephone support service.

This arrangement does not include the following items (but may be arranged if specifically requested): snacks on trail, packed lunch on first day. Transport to Southern Taiwan.

Notes: The standard (for 95% of people) ascent of Yushan involves arrival at the hostel at Tataka (20 km from Alishan) on the day prior to hiking, hiking to Paiyun Lodge on Day 1, early morning ascent to the summit of Yushan's Main Peak and return to trailhead and city on day 2. If you require a different schedule please discuss this with us, but remember there are various good reasons why this has become the standard itinerary.

National Park permits are the most problematic part of the process and can be very difficult to obtain at short notice and for weekends. Dates on successful applications can not be changed, names listed are difficult to change and are now checked carefully at the Tataka checkpoint. In addition to payment of a deposit, we will need hiker's names, passport numbers, dates of birth, and any relevant local contact person/telephone number. We will not assist those with ambitions to enter the national park without valid permits.

Cost: US$190/NT$4,900NT ($2,000 non-refundable deposit prior to permit application, $2,900 on successful application). Discount for groups. No hidden extra costs.

Payment: Paypal, bank transfer, cash.

As always, we encourage you to consider some of the many other (less red-tape tied) peaks and trails in Taiwan, such as Snow Mountain, Taiwan's second highest. Or Dabajian - the barrel-shaped monster.

Any questions - send them to barkingdeerinfo@hotmail.com.

Yushan. Tents and exams

2009-03-23T09:54:00.000-07:00

Note: this is an old post, things are always changing, for up to date comments regarding Yushan click on the main blog page.

April 2011 update: Due to Paiyun Lodge being rebuilt, Yushan is effectively closed to regular hikers for several more months. A tough single-day ascent is possible. Contact us for details. barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Starting March 1st, Yushan National Park have changed some of the regulations relating to approaching Yushan by the standard Tataka (Paiyun) Route.

Where previously camping was only allowed next to Paiyun Cabin at weekends and in the the summer vacation, now there are a small number of semi-permanent tents set up for any day when there is not enough space inside the (still greatly oversubscribed) stone cabin. As usual it is VERY difficult to get any of the now 98 (inside and outside) places at weekends. Weekdays are not too bad this season - perhaps easier now that not many recession-hit companies are paying for team-building trips to the top... Update June 2008: It's as bad as ever again. But there seems to be positive news about the lodge being rebuilt in the next couple years.

Additionally, hikers are now required to pass an on-line test based on a safety/ecology video (also online), before being allowed to start climbing. Those arriving at Tataka without proof of passing must do it all on the spot. Foreigners must watch an introductory video in the building next to the warden checkpoint, but for the moment are exempt from the test... an English version is due 'soon'.

Again I feel I must remind everyone that the main peak of Yushan is only one of hundreds of excellent mountains in Taiwan. If just wanting to get to the top of a well-known and certainly very beautiful mountain, do consider Snow Mountain. Permits are much easier to get hold of, the trail is in great condition, and various great extensions are possible - I can help you out with info/permit/maps for the North Peak, Cuichr (Emerald Pond), the Holy Ridge, and of course the Wuling Quadruple Mountains.

Local media have really have got excited about this New7Wonders of Nature project http://www.new7wonders.com/ that is keeping Yushan at the top of it's dubious rankings. Of course, while not wanting to put anyone off voting for it, I would be more impressed if the tourism department etc would let the world know more about all the other great (and remote/empty) trails all through the high mountains - and make it easier for the average foreign visitor to actually experience them! Rant rant rant.

The park is not issuing single day (dan-gong) ascent permits of the main summit anymore - unless there are very very special circumstances. It was felt those doing this stupid stunt were putting themselves at too much risk for a pretty miserable experience. I have to agree.

Oh yes, almost forgot...the police (mountain entry) permit is now free - there is $10NT you can save for the weekend!

Yushan Winter Closure

2008-12-01T20:25:00.000-08:00

Yushan National Park has just announced it's annual winter closing of the main peak and sub-peaks of Yushan (this does not affect access to other mountains within the park), for the entire month of February 2009. This more lyrically described on the Park's English website as "2009 the Yushan Solemnity Activities".

Almost every year the main peak of Jade Mountain is closed to allow the mountain to 'rest' usually coinciding with the winter's coldest weather and the Lunar New Year holidays. This is a surprising early and concise announcement of the closure and is still liable to be brought forward or extended depending on actual weather conditions.

Some may argue there should be no closure - that conditions on the mountain are never that severe compared to many high mountains overseas or further north in Taiwan. This does not allow for the fact that most people climbing Yushan are not experienced mountain climbing-types, but are aiming to get up there for more cerebral reasons, rarely having the appropriate experience/equipment.

Hiking maps and other resources.

2008-10-21T03:45:00.000-07:00

Taiwan hiking maps come in many shapes and forms, but with one common element - they're only in Chinese. The main printer of quality topographical maps is Sun River 上河. Their 1:25,000 TM__ series of 22 maps focusing on the top 100 peaks and key trails, plus a guide to mountain flowers and printed on weather/abuse-proof plastic is probably the most useful for hiking the high mountains. The accompanying hiking times and gradient charts seem accurate. Their 1:50,000 M__ (1-25) series seems to be out of print now with only certain maps still in stock, a pity as they covered some areas not on the TM__ series.

The M__ (40-47) series covers the hills around Taipei. M__ (31-36) follows an (often imaginary) "Green day hikes" route N-S over mid-level mountains and valleys just west of the main high mountains. Sun River also have a series of comprehensive Northern Taiwan hiking maps, and atlas-like books for all of Taiwan (1:50,000).
For regular navigation of Taiwan's roads, the free bilingual maps published by the Tourism Bureau are usually more than adequate. These are clear, marked with most appropriate places, and contain very few mistakes!!! In the collection there is a general Taiwan map, and separate maps dedicated to Northern Taiwan; Central Taiwan; Eastern Taiwan and Offshore Islands; and Southern Taiwan. The reverse is packed with lots of tourist information. Airports and tourist offices should have these - often you need to ask, failing that, politely suggest that they look in the bulging cupboard behind them.
Of interest to some hikers will be Sun River's coffee table map/photo books introducing the Top 100 peaks, and maps published by the forestry department for various excellent trails - why are these so hard to come by??? The Tourism Bureau's site has links to some good (and mediocre) maps. The Taiwan Mountain Magazine (pictured in first picture above) is a delight to look at even if you don't read Chinese. The googlemaps-based site CubePoint seems to work well. We are willing to annotate some maps with English, contact us at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Richard Saunder's excellent Taipei day trips and Yangmingshan guides are available at the Community Services Center.

Of course Lonely Planet Taiwan (remember to get the most up to date edition) and the Rough Guide have lots of practical advice. Check out Lonely Planet author Robert's blog Pashan for great (and well written) Taiwan hiking suggestions.

Books not to do with hiking but worth noting: 'Private Prayers and Public Parades' by Mark Cantonhill. And 'Keeping up with the War God' by Steven Crook.

Let's not forget Taiwan's premier English-language bulletin board, Forumosa, for all sorts of information and sophisticated discussion.

Southern-Cross Highway

2008-10-17T05:06:00.000-07:00

The Southern Cross-Island Highway runs west to east from Tainan to Taidung county. It is wonderfully scenic, and probably the best way to travel through the mountains in southern Taiwan. The least traveled of the cross-island roads, expect few cars even at the busiest times.
This is highway 20, not highway 9 much further to the south - a more practical, busy, and not particularly stunning route. If you need to get to the East quickly and reliably travel south to No 9, if you want to see the best of Taiwan wander up No 20!From the peaks near the highest point big views can be expected - including of Yushan.

Many sections are as breathtaking as Taroko - 'private Hawaii' was the phrase someone used recently when describing it.
The Jhongjhihguan (Jhong-jr-guan) trail and the hike up to Taguan Peak are mostly through forest.

The east side of Yakou tunnel (2,722 meters altitude, km marker 147) is one of the easiest and best places for the sunrise over a sea of clouds experience. Much better than Alishan in my humble opinion - no train, but there is guy with his illegal van/coffee machine attempting to provide the Starbucks experience.
Arrive at Lidao on the right day and expect a hangover the next.
The Guanshanlingshan (Guan-shan-ling mountain) climb is mostly without shade, but affords first class 360 views.Some other notes: It's possible to go the whole across in one day, much better though to make two days of it. Try to travel the higher parts of the Southern Cross as early as possible in the day as mist and clouds are more likely in the afternoon and evening. In the rainy season and after typhoons do not be surprised if sections are closed due to landslides etc. If needing more advice or a custom tour contact Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com Will fill out this post more soon!

Snow Mountain DIY

2008-10-09T23:52:00.000-07:00

Hike Snow Mountain by yourself.

Snow Mountain is Taiwan's second highest - and an excellent choice if wanting to do a prominent peak by public transport and without a guide.

Embarrassingly known by many names including Shei, Syue, Hsieh, Xue, Sheui, Hsueh, Swei, it is in Sh ei-Pa National Park (the 'Pa' refers to another distinctive mountain Da 'Ba' Jian). It is is the highest point (3,886m) in the the Snow mountain range (the other ranges being the Eastern Coastal, Alishan, Central, and Yushan) and is Taiwan's second highest after Yushan. It is regarded by some as being more beautiful than, Yushan. For this reason - as well as the relative ease in getting permits we recommend foreign hikers, especially coming from Taipei, consider hiking Snow. It is possible to climb without a guide and using public transport (let us arrange the direct shuttle bus from Taipei). Having your own transport makes getting to and around Wuling Farm a bit easier though.

Snaps from a 2010 hike http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/barkingdeerinfo/SnowMay10#

There are several excellent hiking routes in Shei-Pa park including:

Standard Snow main peak hike - 2/3 days.

The Holy Ridge 'O' loop - a challenging 5/6 days.

The Sixiu '4 shows' - 4 peaks over 3,000m 3/4 days.

The west ridge 7 days.

Dabajian standard ascent 3/4 days (beautiful route from Hsinchu County)

Dabajian to Wuling traverse. 4/5 days.

These and other routes can be linked up for longer trips.

This post introduces the standard ascent of Snow main peak.

This hike starts from Wuling Farm/Wuling National Forest Recreation Area in Taichung County. But in practical terms it is closer to Yilan County or even Taroko Gorge. There are four main ways of getting there.

From Taipei on Freeway 5 via the new 13km long Hsuehshan tunnel, linking up with highway 7/7jia. This is the quickest (3½ hours) and easiest route. We can arrange a shuttle bus service directly from Taipei Main Station to Wuling.
From west central Taiwan via Puli, He-Huan Mountain, and the now down-at-heel Lishan. (Freeway 3, highways 14, 14 jia, 8, 7jai. Note: Freeway 6 is now open, linking Freeway 3 with Puli) This is a very scenic route but is best only if you are into enjoying most of a day traveling on winding roads.
From Taoyuan or Hsinchu over the scenic and often foggy North Cross-island highway (No 7 meeting up with 7jai). Allow 5/6/7 hours for this drive.
From Taroko. A trip to Wuling can (and should) be combined with a visit to the fantastic Taroko Gorge. Continue up No 8 beyond Tiensiang in the gorge, meeting No 7jai at Lishan. Allow half a day - enjoy it!

Notes: The formerly quickest way from west-central Taiwan on highway 8 is still closed between Guguan and Lishan. Rumor has it it may be opened to some traffic later this year - do not plan on it though. The free tourist maps available at airports and visitor centers are more than adequate for navigation. Two buses a day run from Taipei/Yilan, and one from Puli to Wuling.

Within Wuling
Wuling was originally (well, after the indigenous population were not to be found there anymore, that is) established as a farm for retired soldiers. In recent years it has taken on a more recreation-focused role and the the farming has largely disappeared. It is a very pleasant area with the Formosan Salmon Protection Area Cijaiwan River running through it. Key places include the Wuling Hotel (near the entrance), Visitor center, police station (where if we haven't obtained for you already you must apply for a 'mountain permit' - different from the 'National Park permit'), various orchards, Wuling Cottage from where you can do the day hike to Taoshan waterfall, campgrounds, and the trailhead for Snow mountain. These are mostly several kilometers from each other, thus, we suggest you have your own transport.

Hiking Snow
National Park permits must be applied for at least 10 days (1 month better) in advance and cannot be applied for on the spot at Wuling. Email us at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com and we can do all the paperwork for you - hard to do if you don't read/write Chinese, and haven't done it before. We will need the dates you plan to hike, your names, dates of birth, and passport numbers. If the application is successful (aim to hike on weekdays) we will email the permit as a PDF file and mail by conventional post a package including an indestructible topographical map annotated in English (see below) more detailed hiking notes, and as much advice as you desire. For this we charge NT$1900 (US$65) per group. If requested, we can arrange custom guided trips.

The number of hikers/permits is limited to spaces available in the huts/shelters - must apply to sleep in these. The shelters most relevant to this hike are, Chika (Qika), an easy hike only 2km from the trailhead and the higher-up Sanliojeou (369). The small Tswei-chr (Emerald pond), and beautifully located North Peak hut (within close range of the North Peak and the magnificent Dragon's spine) involve hauling all your gear over the main summit.

Visitor Center Area - 9.8km uphill (by car if desired) - Trail head (2,140m water, toilets, carpark) where your permits are inspected - 2km (on foot now) - Chika hut (2,500m large barrack-style bunk platform-beds rooms - space for 130 people, campground, water, toilets) - 3km - East Peak 3,201m - 2.1km - Sanliojeou (369) hut (space for 106 people, water-may be frozen in winter, toilets, no space to camp) - 2.6km - 'black' forest and start of Glacial Cirque - 1.2km - main summit 3,886m. A total of 10.9 km from trail head to summit.

For 'most' people it is recommended you stay in the huts for two nights. Everyone is different in their abilities and preferences - decide what is appropriate for you. Remember you are at altitude and may experience extremes of heat/cold you are not used to, only the very fittest and experienced should plan on staying on the trail only one night. Typical itinerary: Day 1. travel to Wuling, mid afternoon hike from trailhead to Chika hut. Day 2. Hike, via East peak, to Sanliojeou (369) hut. Day 3. Arise early, summit, return to trail head. Some people will be able to start hiking early on Day 1 and aim directly for Sanliojeou, some prefer to plan a later start from Sanliojeou Hut for the summit and spend an extra night there or Chika. Tell us clearly your dates and hut booking preferences - these must be specified on the permit application. Better to be over-cautious/conservative than be caught short of time or energy on the trail.

There is no bedding or cooking facilities at the huts, you must bring your own stove, utensils, gas, cooking pots, food, and sleeping bag. Other things you should have are: light hiking pants, warm fleece pants - in winter, spare underwear, wide-brimmed hat, warm hat, warm gloves, 2 pair spare socks, toilet paper - not tissue paper, headlight - fresh batteries, inner layer breathable shirt (not cotton!), 2 fleece layers - one light one heavy, toothbrush - toothpaste, sunblock, rain jacket, hiking boots - must be broken in and in good shape (remember most good shoes/boots are designed to disintegrate for recycling purposes after a couple years!), personal medicine etc, sleeping mat, backpack - must have good hip belt, backpack cover, bags to waterproof spare clothing/sleeping bag, water bottles - 2 liters, cell phone - CH telecom best, compass, water purifying gadget/tablets, maps (Barking Deer can supply).

We also appreciate having these things with us: hiking poles, sandals to wear at huts, shorts, glasses (better than contact lenses), entertainment - reading material/mp3, camera - spare battery/memory card, silica drying packs, first-aid kit, repair kit, Diamox for altitude sickness - do your own research on this.

Dogs not allowed. Not needed: technical climbing gear or crampons for most of the year. From December to March crampons and iceaxes may be needed.

The trail is obvious (but be careful in the 'Black forest' especially in low light), clean, and well serviced with bilingual signs and noticeboards.

More on Typhoons and Mountains

2008-09-29T23:57:00.000-07:00

This has been a very bad season for typhoons causing havoc in Taiwan's mountains - and it doesn't seem to be over yet! Two images are keeping me from sleeping well these days. This from the Central Weather Bureau's website today (Tuesday September 30).It shows the paths, and predicted paths of JANGMI (no 15, now skirting Japan), MEKKHALA (no16, heading for Vietnam), and HIGOS (no 17, about to visit The Philippines).

There is speculation that the more frequent stronger typhoons later this year is due to the La Nina effect and the westward migration of warmer seas. When these warm water-dependent storms develop further away they have more time to gain strength.

Then again, Taiwan has had it's fair share of typhoons over the years. This map, from Wikimedia Commons, shows the tracks of all tropical cyclones in the Northwest Pacific Ocean from 1980 to 2005. The International Date Line, on the right, is the eastern boundary of the basin. The points show the locations of the storms at six-hourly intervals. Taiwan and lucky Luzon are almost invisible.Many trails and mountain roads have been damaged. The long awaited reopening of Daba may not happen until the end of the year now.

Mountain Permits - Facts and opinions

2008-09-27T02:02:00.001-07:00

Getting mountain permits sorted out is one of the biggest and most annoying hurdles to overcome before hiking in Taiwan's high mountains. There is a lot of inaccurate and misleading information out there on the subject, some by simple accident, some by those trying to be discouraging or over-cautious. I hope this answers some questions.

First thing to know is that anyone, in theory, can get permits regardless of (a) group size (including individuals-though we encourage you not to venture out alone) (b) whether you are Taiwanese or a Foreigner (c) have a guide or not. Permits are for the individuals, dates, and routes listed only...these generally can not be changed once issued. Also there is no such thing as a general season permit etc. A small number of especially sensitive ecological areas are only open to recognized scientific researchers...and Taroko Nat Park has serious misgiving about dealing with foreigners in a normal fashion.

There are 2 kinds of permits (1) National Park (入園, ru-yuan), and (2). Police permits (入山, ru-shan). The National Park permits are for entering the respective national park's territory (is that a bit too obvious?), and the Police permits are for entering any high mountain area. Hiking in the National Parks therefore requires both kinds of permits. Generally, permits are not required for public roads passing through the mountains, and some shorter, easier trails.

The National Park permits (ru-yuan) are the more difficult and time consuming to obtain. The Police permits (ru-shan), if not not gotten in advance, usually may be applied for on the spot at a police station in the same county or at a checkpoint on the trail - check first.

The National Park permit must be applied for at least 7 days in advance (Yushan main route, at least a month in advance. Much earlier is usually impossible too.). The best way to apply is online, unfortunately this is often only possible using Chinese, and the applicant (not necessarily the hikers) must have a valid ROC ID number - passport/ARC numbers may not work. Alternatively sending you details by regular mail or email can work...I won't get into the nitty gritty details now or I'll be writing till the next typhoon comes, just to say it's far from a perfect situation!

Yushan (Jade Mountain)
The standard ascent of Yushan is very, very popular but accommodation at Paiyun Lodge/hut/shelter/cabin (where most hikers will stay) is limited to less than 100 people per night. This means Yushan National Park must operate a lottery system if the number of people applying exceeds spaces available. Chances of a successful application are much better by avoiding the the busy weekends, especially Saturday night. On weekdays there is a quota of places left aside for foreign (remember this includes Japanese and Korean) hikers.

Yushan Nat. Park announces the Paiyun lottery result a month before the dates applied for. The screen shot below (click on for a larger image) shows the results, released September 25, for October 25 - a Saturday. 1,768 people applied for the 82 places - do the math! Leaders of the lucky teams are listed. All fair and open - well if you use Windows IE (one of the many government websites that only work properly when using Microsoft's browser). These are the results for the previous Wednesday. The numbers are better, but still not ideal 275 applied for 82 places.

The many typhoons and growing 'fame' of Yushan has put extra pressure on the system. When typhoons are imminent permits are canceled until the storm has passed, the trail/huts are inspected, and any damage patched up. After typhoons many people will be eagerly applying again to make up for their canceled trips.

We strongly encourage you to consider other mountains (there are hundreds over 3,000m in Taiwan) instead of Yushan. If you are Taipei-based and have your own transport, think about Snow Mountain (Shei/Shuei/Xue shan) just slightly lower than Yushan but often considered more beautiful. Or Dabajian Mountain, as seen on the NT$500 banknote, and a less retentive route.

The permit system, and especially the overlap of the two, is an annoyance to many hikers, Taiwanese and foreign. We hope there will be changes soon but have to accept this is the the best system possible at the moment. The concept of national parks, and longer multi-day hiking is still a fairly new thing here, trails can be very challenging, and arriving tired and cold at a mountain hut to find it full is not a nice experience. Some routes may seem easy to sneak onto without a permit and with minimal worries of being caught and fined, BUT if you require rescue (it can and does happen) you will pay all the costs of the rescuers and their big shiny helicopters - if there illegally.

We are happy to apply for permits for you (for a small fee) and to answer your questions. Contact me, Richard, at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com and hope I am near a computer to reply.

Goodbye Summer...Autumn & Winter Hikes

2008-09-12T09:54:00.000-07:00

Some open-to-all hike dates for the fall (oops! Autumn) and winter season. More details as always on Barking-Deer.com

Updates in Red

October 22-25
Dabajianshan (Mount Daba) standard route. This distinctive peak (3492m), the one hiding behind the deer on Taiwan's 500 dollar note, has been closed for some time. Now, if you are up for it, it is possible again to climb to the very top, hmm. Update: Daba is still closed and may remain so for some time yet. Chilai also closed.

October 26 - November 1
Snow (Syue/Shei/Xue/Hsuei shan) mountain west ridge route including main summit and possible 2 day extension to the North peak for a fantastic view of the Holy Ridge, Daba and the dragon's spine. Update: West ridge closed due to damage. Doing Holy Ridge instead - closed to more hikers.

October 31 - November 1
Snow Mountain standard ascent.

November 6-8
Snow Mountain 'Four Show's'
Four great 'Top 100' peaks loop starting and ending at Wuling Farm.

November 10-12
Nanhu Dashan standard route. Ranked by many experienced Taiwanese hikers as 'the best'. Located in Taroko National Park.

November 13 (date may change slightly)
Taroko Gorge secret trails. Full

November 14-17 (dates may change)
Yushan Main Peaks - Camp high and explore some sub-peaks. No more spaces

November 27-28 (meet up 26th evening)
Standard Yushan summit. Full

November 27-29 (meet up 26th evening)
Yushan Traverse, end up in Dongpu Hot spring resort. Batonguan still closed, changed to Yushan peak-bagging. Full

Mid December (possibly 11-18th)
Southern Second Section. The classic N-S ridge hike though the middle of Yushan National Park.

December 21 - January ?
Batongguan Traverse. Probably Taiwan best E-W trek. If Batongguan still closed will do a route of similar scale.

2008 Summer Hikes

2008-05-18T23:13:00.000-07:00

This is a very incomplete schedule of open-to-all trips.

June 23- 28th Southern-Second Section (6 days)

July 7-12 Snow Mountain Range traverse

July 16-17th Yushan

August 21-22 Yushan

August 26-28 Yushan Traverse (3 days)

Early September Batongguan Cross-Island (7-9days)

Late October Snow Mountain traverse & Nan-hu

Late November Neng-gao

Christmas/New Year Batongguan Cross-Island (7-9 days)

Goodbye Winter. Hello Summer.

2008-05-18T23:02:00.000-07:00

As you can see, this blog tends to skip the occasional season. Then again this winter seemed to drag on for a bit longer and spring was fitted into a single April afternoon.

A recent photo of northern Kaohsiung County to get you in the mood for the winter that will come around before too many more posts here.

Puli, Alishan and Yushan.

2008-02-12T08:05:00.000-08:00

I'll try to be polite.

Recent trips to Puli and Alishan have reminded me that the point of those places is as a base to areas nearby, not to them.

Puli is just another dull town (I await a defense of it) with lots of great mountains, rivers etc nearby. Ensure you have transport to get you out of the urban area.

Alishan is fine if you've grown up hearing about its wonders. For more outdoorsy types it's essential to get away from the main zone. I strongly recommend Tatajia (watch out for the excellent grey leaflet published by the Nat. Park) within the boundary of Yushan National Park, and the villages Fenchihu, Taihe, Rueli (good colorful info from the Alishan Scenic area admin) etc further down the mountains.

Transport is as with many places in Taiwan problematic - without a scooter anyway. To get to Tatajai I suggest hitching (yes yes I know I shouldn't mention this...) the 20 something km from the Alishan entrance. For the villages down the mountain get off the small gauge train halfway up and walk!

Yushan closed After changing their minds several times the National Park decided to keep the main peak open without a 'rest' this year. The recent cold weather though has forced them to close the higher peaks in the last few days due to 'heavy' snow and ice.

Magpies and Pheasants

2008-02-12T07:21:00.000-08:00

Last week on the Shau-kuan-shan Forest Road we came upon 2 usually hard to spot birds endemic to Taiwan - the Taiwan Blue Magpie, and a male Swinhoe's Pheasant.

Swinhoe's Pheasant (lophura swinhoii) named after the 19th century naturalist.

Soon to be our national bird, the Taiwan Blue Magpie (urocissa caerulea - member of the crow family, I think). As well as both parents mucking in, adult siblings help out in feeding the young. Wholesome!

Christmas Hikes

2007-12-09T18:51:00.000-08:00

Finally got some details of a couple hikes taking place around Christmas. The first is a vigorous 5-day rivertrace December 24-28, and the 2 day is also a not-for-the-lazy ascent of the not very famous Sinwangling Dec 29&30. Details at http://sanminvalley.blogspot.com/