The rains from Typhoon Fanapi are still falling, and clearup work is just just starting, but I know some of you are wondering what condition mountain trails will be in. This is my best guess, will update this post with details as I get them.
All high-mountain peaks and trails in Taiwan are closed right now. As the weather clears up the national parks will send in teams to check trail conditions. Some shorter and more stable trails will probably reopen in the next few days, longer/remoter trails may take a week or two to be inspected - and (only) then possibly reopened. I fear the planned reopening of various Yushan (Jade Mountain) NP routes this month (following last year's Morakot damage) will be put back many weeks or months. Shorter Taroko NP, and Shei-pa NP trails starting from Wuling Farm are probably in reasonable shape and may be open by the weekend.
Expect the roads in the areas of Alishan, southern Nantou, north/east/south of Jiaxian to be either closed or in a bad state. The Southern Cross-Island Highway is closed.
Stay safe!
Richard (on holiday for the next week)
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Cilai East Ridge
A Tsao aborigine friend of ours Xiao Yang (Small Goat) is leading a trek October 12-18th along Cilai East Ridge. I expect to join him on this very rigorous hike. If interested in joining us please email or call Xiao Yang's wife Sarah Tsai hikingfun.tour@gmail.com 0972218185 (speaks excellent English) to register, or see their website http://www.hikingfuntour.com/website/ (in Chinese). 
This 6-day trek from Hohuan Mountain to the heart of Taroko Gorge is tough and only suitable for the experienced and fit. The cost for guiding and food will be about NT$ 8,000. This trip is likely to be porter assisted, if so the additional optinal NT$8,500 cost is excellent value. Some of their photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/hiking_fun/sets/ 'Small Goat' is the big guy!
This 6-day trek from Hohuan Mountain to the heart of Taroko Gorge is tough and only suitable for the experienced and fit. The cost for guiding and food will be about NT$ 8,000. This trip is likely to be porter assisted, if so the additional optinal NT$8,500 cost is excellent value. Some of their photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/hiking_fun/sets/ 'Small Goat' is the big guy! This blog (another group) gives you an idea what each day will involve. Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6, Day 7. Also try googling 奇萊東稜 for images.
You may also be interested in their November 11-16 Nenggao-Antongjun (we hope to join him on this one), and December 08-15 Southern Second Section treks.
You may also be interested in their November 11-16 Nenggao-Antongjun (we hope to join him on this one), and December 08-15 Southern Second Section treks.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Ending the summer.
Time for an update - we’ve passed the first anniversary of Morakot, are most of the way through Ghost Month, and have yet to have a single typhoon hit us...hang on, what are these 3 fluffy, white things approaching?
The latest on Yushan:
Several of the longer trekking routes (Batongguan, Southern Second Section, Badashow, Yushan Main Peak via Batonguan) are scheduled to reopen September 20th. The deciding factor is safe access from Dungpu via the Batongguan Trail - especially in the Guangao area - just North of the Batongguan Meadow. There has been a lot of repair work done on it in the last few months, but it is in a poor condition and prone to bad weather damage. The Mapo cross-island, Xinkang, and Walami to Dashueiku sections are not yet being opened. The Southern Stars (Kuhanuoshin, Guan, Guan Ling/Da etc) are also supposed to be reopened next month - the lack of a road (Highway 20) to the trailhead has not been addressed - I’ve no idea what is supposed to happen. Likewise some confusion around Yushan N.P. announcing the opening of the Southern Second without firm plans from the Forestry Bureau to reopen Jiaming Lake - the most southern bit of the Southern Section.
Climbing Yushan.
Access to the main summit via Tataka (Tatajia) is much reduced due to the closure of Paiyun Lodge - rebuilding is to start next month, and last ‘8 months’. The latest news on the design is that the new lodge will not be that much larger. National Park laws and sensible consideration of the foundation’s stability mean the new building will not be the colossus that some had hoped for. For a taste of the ongoing debate, see these minutes (in Chinese) http://mountain.ysnp.gov.tw/upload/RelFile/News/179/634184206479553865.pdf
There are two options for those wanting to knock off the Main Summit - both are more strenuous and only suitable for the very fit. Single-day ascent, and camping at Yuan-fong Cabin.
Single-day ascent: This nasty option is available again (having been canceled a couple years ago), the daily permit limit increased from 20 to 40, with possible special allowances for foreigners. Hikers must prove experience of hiking above 3000meters (usually in the form of photos on summits). No access past Tataka before 5am, and hikers arriving at Paiyun after 10am (some say 12am) will not be allowed to proceed further uphill. I suggest hikers have porter-carried food prepared at Paiyun.
Camping at Yuan-fong: 15 spaces in the cabin, 21 camping nearby. Again this is only an option for the fitter and experienced. Yuanfong is further away, higher, and colder than Paiyun Lodge.
I’m not 100% sure of some of the practical issues that will come up with applying for these permits, expect surprises.
Taiwan’s national parks are marking this year (year 99 in the official ROC calender) with an activity called ： Taiwan 99 (台灣99) encouraging hikers to climb Taiwan’s other National Park’s highest peaks: Nanren Mountain (南仁山) in Kenting (墾丁) N.P.; Cising (七星山) Mouountain in Yangminshan (陽明山) N.P; Nanhu (南湖大山), (and also Cilai North 奇萊北峰 and Hehuan East 合歡東峰) in Taroko( 太魯閣) N.P.; Snow (Xue, Shei, 雪山主峰) Mountain (and Daba 大霸尖山) in Shei-pa (雪霸) N.P.; Taiwu( 太武山) Mountain in Kinmen (金門).
Note: Shei-pa N.P. announced this month that that they are fining anyone found to have climbed to the top of the Daba's actual peak. For 99.9% of people getting to the foot of the summit (99.9% of the way) is more than satisfactory. The very final climb (yes - real climbing) has been treacherous since the various ropes and via ferratta were removed.
We are busy/on holiday until mid-October. Hope to able to arrange permits (think about Snow Mountain, Jhuilu, Daba, Hehuan) remotely in this time...and then soon after have a new schedule of open hikes/tours available!
The latest on Yushan:
Several of the longer trekking routes (Batongguan, Southern Second Section, Badashow, Yushan Main Peak via Batonguan) are scheduled to reopen September 20th. The deciding factor is safe access from Dungpu via the Batongguan Trail - especially in the Guangao area - just North of the Batongguan Meadow. There has been a lot of repair work done on it in the last few months, but it is in a poor condition and prone to bad weather damage. The Mapo cross-island, Xinkang, and Walami to Dashueiku sections are not yet being opened. The Southern Stars (Kuhanuoshin, Guan, Guan Ling/Da etc) are also supposed to be reopened next month - the lack of a road (Highway 20) to the trailhead has not been addressed - I’ve no idea what is supposed to happen. Likewise some confusion around Yushan N.P. announcing the opening of the Southern Second without firm plans from the Forestry Bureau to reopen Jiaming Lake - the most southern bit of the Southern Section.
Climbing Yushan.
Access to the main summit via Tataka (Tatajia) is much reduced due to the closure of Paiyun Lodge - rebuilding is to start next month, and last ‘8 months’. The latest news on the design is that the new lodge will not be that much larger. National Park laws and sensible consideration of the foundation’s stability mean the new building will not be the colossus that some had hoped for. For a taste of the ongoing debate, see these minutes (in Chinese) http://mountain.ysnp.gov.tw/upload/RelFile/News/179/634184206479553865.pdf
There are two options for those wanting to knock off the Main Summit - both are more strenuous and only suitable for the very fit. Single-day ascent, and camping at Yuan-fong Cabin.
Single-day ascent: This nasty option is available again (having been canceled a couple years ago), the daily permit limit increased from 20 to 40, with possible special allowances for foreigners. Hikers must prove experience of hiking above 3000meters (usually in the form of photos on summits). No access past Tataka before 5am, and hikers arriving at Paiyun after 10am (some say 12am) will not be allowed to proceed further uphill. I suggest hikers have porter-carried food prepared at Paiyun.
Camping at Yuan-fong: 15 spaces in the cabin, 21 camping nearby. Again this is only an option for the fitter and experienced. Yuanfong is further away, higher, and colder than Paiyun Lodge.
I’m not 100% sure of some of the practical issues that will come up with applying for these permits, expect surprises.
Taiwan’s national parks are marking this year (year 99 in the official ROC calender) with an activity called ： Taiwan 99 (台灣99) encouraging hikers to climb Taiwan’s other National Park’s highest peaks: Nanren Mountain (南仁山) in Kenting (墾丁) N.P.; Cising (七星山) Mouountain in Yangminshan (陽明山) N.P; Nanhu (南湖大山), (and also Cilai North 奇萊北峰 and Hehuan East 合歡東峰) in Taroko( 太魯閣) N.P.; Snow (Xue, Shei, 雪山主峰) Mountain (and Daba 大霸尖山) in Shei-pa (雪霸) N.P.; Taiwu( 太武山) Mountain in Kinmen (金門).
Note: Shei-pa N.P. announced this month that that they are fining anyone found to have climbed to the top of the Daba's actual peak. For 99.9% of people getting to the foot of the summit (99.9% of the way) is more than satisfactory. The very final climb (yes - real climbing) has been treacherous since the various ropes and via ferratta were removed.
We are busy/on holiday until mid-October. Hope to able to arrange permits (think about Snow Mountain, Jhuilu, Daba, Hehuan) remotely in this time...and then soon after have a new schedule of open hikes/tours available!
Monday, July 26, 2010
Jhuilu Trail Tour.
Taiwan’s Vertigo Trail - Jhuilu Old Road, Taroko
The Jhuilu (錐鹿古道) Trail in Taroko Gorge is probably one of the most stunning day-hikes in Taiwan. All of the trail is superb - the middle section is truly breathtaking - walking on a narrow ledge over 500 meters above the gorge.
We now offer a package tour for this (we've nicknamed it the Vertigo Trail) hike. This trail is for hikers in average to above-average fitness who enjoy big views. This hike is not for anyone very out of shape or suffering from acrophobia - a fear of heights!
The Jhuilu Old Trail is part of the long Japanese-era Hehuan Trail that once linked Taroko with garrisons on the west side of the central mountains. This section, damaged and closed for many years, is only now open to hikers. Most of it is a gorgeous hiking trail winding through beautiful forest, with an initial ascent/final descent of around 600 meters (2000 feet). What makes this truly spectacular are the middle sections that pass along sheer cliffs, where the cars and buses in the gorge half a kilometer below are...small, and a wrong move means...
The 10.3 km route takes up to 7 hours, so setting of at 7 or 8am makes sense. Hikers must carry plenty of water and snacks for this tough workout. Taroko National Park strictly enforces rules regarding the required permits (I've seen them fining people).The trail starts from Zimu (Cimu) Bridge and ends at the suspension bridge at the Swallow's Grotto (Yanzikou). This is usually the best direction of travel - and sometimes required. On most of the most exciting parts (path less than 70cm wide) of the trail there is a fixed safety line to hold onto; in a couple places there is a simple rail between you and a long, long fall. Start and end sections of the trail are more conventional - yet beautiful, passing through lush forest and remains of colonial-era stations and memorials.
Our package:
Permits - both ‘park’ and ‘mountain’. Maps
Return Train tickets from Taipei to Xincheng (Taroko, Sincheng) Station, where you will be met by our agent and driven to good accommodation near the gorge.
In the morning he will transport you to the trailhead, and be waiting when you descend in the afternoon for transport back to Xincheng Station.
There is a limit to the number of permits issued for each day - weekends may be difficult to obtain. We usually need at least a week to obtain the permits and make the other arrangements - but last minute can work too.
Not included: accident insurance, personal gear.
This is perfect for people who have previously been to the gorge before, have walked all the standard trails, and now want something a bit different. Itinerary fully customizable - discuss your requirements with us.
Can advise on itinerary planning.
Additional photos here.
Contact Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com
The Jhuilu (錐鹿古道) Trail in Taroko Gorge is probably one of the most stunning day-hikes in Taiwan. All of the trail is superb - the middle section is truly breathtaking - walking on a narrow ledge over 500 meters above the gorge.
We now offer a package tour for this (we've nicknamed it the Vertigo Trail) hike. This trail is for hikers in average to above-average fitness who enjoy big views. This hike is not for anyone very out of shape or suffering from acrophobia - a fear of heights!
The Jhuilu Old Trail is part of the long Japanese-era Hehuan Trail that once linked Taroko with garrisons on the west side of the central mountains. This section, damaged and closed for many years, is only now open to hikers. Most of it is a gorgeous hiking trail winding through beautiful forest, with an initial ascent/final descent of around 600 meters (2000 feet). What makes this truly spectacular are the middle sections that pass along sheer cliffs, where the cars and buses in the gorge half a kilometer below are...small, and a wrong move means...
The 10.3 km route takes up to 7 hours, so setting of at 7 or 8am makes sense. Hikers must carry plenty of water and snacks for this tough workout. Taroko National Park strictly enforces rules regarding the required permits (I've seen them fining people).The trail starts from Zimu (Cimu) Bridge and ends at the suspension bridge at the Swallow's Grotto (Yanzikou). This is usually the best direction of travel - and sometimes required. On most of the most exciting parts (path less than 70cm wide) of the trail there is a fixed safety line to hold onto; in a couple places there is a simple rail between you and a long, long fall. Start and end sections of the trail are more conventional - yet beautiful, passing through lush forest and remains of colonial-era stations and memorials.
Our package:
Permits - both ‘park’ and ‘mountain’. Maps
Return Train tickets from Taipei to Xincheng (Taroko, Sincheng) Station, where you will be met by our agent and driven to good accommodation near the gorge.
In the morning he will transport you to the trailhead, and be waiting when you descend in the afternoon for transport back to Xincheng Station.
There is a limit to the number of permits issued for each day - weekends may be difficult to obtain. We usually need at least a week to obtain the permits and make the other arrangements - but last minute can work too.
Not included: accident insurance, personal gear.
This is perfect for people who have previously been to the gorge before, have walked all the standard trails, and now want something a bit different. Itinerary fully customizable - discuss your requirements with us.
Can advise on itinerary planning.
Additional photos here.
Contact Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com
Friday, July 16, 2010
Bye-bye old Paiyun
The latest on Yushan.
The much rumored has now been officially announced: The main peak of Yushan (Jade Mountain) will be closed from the start of September 2010 to allow for reconstruction of Paiyun Lodge (排雲山莊). One surprise was the announcement that the mountain will be closed for 8 months - and not the 1 month that many people had be predicting, especially as much of the new Paiyun building will be pre-fabricated off the mountain and transported by helicopter for installation. The design is still being argued over earnestly by the great and the good. Will update this post as I know more (shocking how little is really known by anyone).
For ordinary hikers the mountain will be closed. For those with exceptional (I mean really, really exceptional) circumstances I suspect there may be very special allowances made. In the meantime I predict there may be as many as 50 people applying for each single permit for the last few days of August.
Remember good permit-free views of Yushan are still possible, not far from Alishan, in the Tataka (Tatajia) area (we can help you with transport around here). The hundreds of other superb 3,000+ meter ( around 10,000 feet) peaks elsewhere in Taiwan are looking for your hiking boots’ attention - think of Snow, Dabajian, etc. I am hopeful, if the next couple months are not too typhoon-rich, that there will be good news to report on access to the epic Batongguan Trail (a longer, harder way to Yushan’s summit): beyond Walami: and Xinkang (Sinkang) Mountain.
Or take it easy - learn more about Taiwan’s incredible biodiversity - buy a book (or video/map/poster/postcard) from Books from Taiwan http://booksfromtaiwan.com/
The much rumored has now been officially announced: The main peak of Yushan (Jade Mountain) will be closed from the start of September 2010 to allow for reconstruction of Paiyun Lodge (排雲山莊). One surprise was the announcement that the mountain will be closed for 8 months - and not the 1 month that many people had be predicting, especially as much of the new Paiyun building will be pre-fabricated off the mountain and transported by helicopter for installation. The design is still being argued over earnestly by the great and the good. Will update this post as I know more (shocking how little is really known by anyone).
For ordinary hikers the mountain will be closed. For those with exceptional (I mean really, really exceptional) circumstances I suspect there may be very special allowances made. In the meantime I predict there may be as many as 50 people applying for each single permit for the last few days of August.
Remember good permit-free views of Yushan are still possible, not far from Alishan, in the Tataka (Tatajia) area (we can help you with transport around here). The hundreds of other superb 3,000+ meter ( around 10,000 feet) peaks elsewhere in Taiwan are looking for your hiking boots’ attention - think of Snow, Dabajian, etc. I am hopeful, if the next couple months are not too typhoon-rich, that there will be good news to report on access to the epic Batongguan Trail (a longer, harder way to Yushan’s summit): beyond Walami: and Xinkang (Sinkang) Mountain.
Or take it easy - learn more about Taiwan’s incredible biodiversity - buy a book (or video/map/poster/postcard) from Books from Taiwan http://booksfromtaiwan.com/
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Yushan and arms.
A week of extremes. Last week started well - standing on Yushan’s summit, and ended badly - sprawled over a city street.
I was delighted to accompany Kim Myung Joon and his wife to the summit of Yushan on a particularly beautiful morning. Mr Kim was in 2006 the oldest person to complete the seven summits. Yushan is his 28th of the 50 most prominent summits. Note ‘prominence’ here is topographical prominence - a technical term - not ‘famous’ as most Taiwan media like to translate it. More Yushan pictures here.
At the end of the week i was nursing a scooter-related broken arm.
The details - should you be interested: The accident happened in East Tainan when I was on my scooter/motorcycle out purchasing books and lunch. I was crossing one of those intersections where I had a flashing yellow (pass with care) - and the lady that hit me (coming from my left) should have noticed a flashing red (stop/give way) light. Was a full-on crash into each other. Bystanders helpful, police and ambulance on scene quickly. Firsts for me: plaster cast; breathalyser test; Sinlao hospital; as patient in ambulance.
As well as scrapes and bruises on my chest, elbow, hand, knee, and foot I have broken my forearm (ulna near the wrist). Will take a few weeks in a cast to heal. Additionally scooter and clothes a bit mangled. The lady (50’s) has very similar injuries. Have settled amicably. See further snaps at here.
Sadly this will interfere with some (but not all) of Barking Deer’s activities in the next few weeks. Sorry! Grumble grumble...
Edit September: arm fine now, hair still 'thin'.
Richard
I was delighted to accompany Kim Myung Joon and his wife to the summit of Yushan on a particularly beautiful morning. Mr Kim was in 2006 the oldest person to complete the seven summits. Yushan is his 28th of the 50 most prominent summits. Note ‘prominence’ here is topographical prominence - a technical term - not ‘famous’ as most Taiwan media like to translate it. More Yushan pictures here.
At the end of the week i was nursing a scooter-related broken arm.
The details - should you be interested: The accident happened in East Tainan when I was on my scooter/motorcycle out purchasing books and lunch. I was crossing one of those intersections where I had a flashing yellow (pass with care) - and the lady that hit me (coming from my left) should have noticed a flashing red (stop/give way) light. Was a full-on crash into each other. Bystanders helpful, police and ambulance on scene quickly. Firsts for me: plaster cast; breathalyser test; Sinlao hospital; as patient in ambulance.
As well as scrapes and bruises on my chest, elbow, hand, knee, and foot I have broken my forearm (ulna near the wrist). Will take a few weeks in a cast to heal. Additionally scooter and clothes a bit mangled. The lady (50’s) has very similar injuries. Have settled amicably. See further snaps at here.
Sadly this will interfere with some (but not all) of Barking Deer’s activities in the next few weeks. Sorry! Grumble grumble...
Edit September: arm fine now, hair still 'thin'.
Richard
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