When applying (paper/snail-mail option only) for permits, hikers must prove experience hiking high mountains. Proof - in the form of photos of you on a serious summit (or in snow...) seems to do the trick. Most hikers must start hiking at 2 or 3am from Tatajia (the highway, not the trailhead proper - handy van shuttle not possible) and return very tired between 2pm and 7pm. The National Park has the sensible, and enforced, rule that hikers must make it to Paiyun Lodge before 10am - or not be allowed further up the mountain.
This is all due to Paiyun Lodge still being unfinished. My prediction (based on discussions with numerous relevant people, and dependant on typhoons/snow/acts of humans) is that the cabin will not be effectively operating until spring 2012 summer 2012. While a very beautiful mountain, it gets - in my opinion - a bit too much attention to the detriment of other great peaks in Taiwan.
