Time for an update - we’ve passed the first anniversary of Morakot, are most of the way through Ghost Month, and have yet to have a single typhoon hit us...hang on, what are these 3 fluffy, white things approaching?
The latest on Yushan:
Several of the longer trekking routes (Batongguan, Southern Second Section, Badashow, Yushan Main Peak via Batonguan) are scheduled to reopen September 20th. The deciding factor is safe access from Dungpu via the Batongguan Trail - especially in the Guangao area - just North of the Batongguan Meadow. There has been a lot of repair work done on it in the last few months, but it is in a poor condition and prone to bad weather damage. The Mapo cross-island, Xinkang, and Walami to Dashueiku sections are not yet being opened. The Southern Stars (Kuhanuoshin, Guan, Guan Ling/Da etc) are also supposed to be reopened next month - the lack of a road (Highway 20) to the trailhead has not been addressed - I’ve no idea what is supposed to happen. Likewise some confusion around Yushan N.P. announcing the opening of the Southern Second without firm plans from the Forestry Bureau to reopen Jiaming Lake - the most southern bit of the Southern Section.
Climbing Yushan.
Access to the main summit via Tataka (Tatajia) is much reduced due to the closure of Paiyun Lodge - rebuilding is to start next month, and last ‘8 months’. The latest news on the design is that the new lodge will not be that much larger. National Park laws and sensible consideration of the foundation’s stability mean the new building will not be the colossus that some had hoped for. For a taste of the ongoing debate, see these minutes (in Chinese) http://mountain.ysnp.gov.tw/upload/RelFile/News/179/634184206479553865.pdf
There are two options for those wanting to knock off the Main Summit - both are more strenuous and only suitable for the very fit. Single-day ascent, and camping at Yuan-fong Cabin.
Single-day ascent: This nasty option is available again (having been canceled a couple years ago), the daily permit limit increased from 20 to 40, with possible special allowances for foreigners. Hikers must prove experience of hiking above 3000meters (usually in the form of photos on summits). No access past Tataka before 5am, and hikers arriving at Paiyun after 10am (some say 12am) will not be allowed to proceed further uphill. I suggest hikers have porter-carried food prepared at Paiyun.
Camping at Yuan-fong: 15 spaces in the cabin, 21 camping nearby. Again this is only an option for the fitter and experienced. Yuanfong is further away, higher, and colder than Paiyun Lodge.
I’m not 100% sure of some of the practical issues that will come up with applying for these permits, expect surprises.
Taiwan’s national parks are marking this year (year 99 in the official ROC calender) with an activity called ： Taiwan 99 (台灣99) encouraging hikers to climb Taiwan’s other National Park’s highest peaks: Nanren Mountain (南仁山) in Kenting (墾丁) N.P.; Cising (七星山) Mouountain in Yangminshan (陽明山) N.P; Nanhu (南湖大山), (and also Cilai North 奇萊北峰 and Hehuan East 合歡東峰) in Taroko( 太魯閣) N.P.; Snow (Xue, Shei, 雪山主峰) Mountain (and Daba 大霸尖山) in Shei-pa (雪霸) N.P.; Taiwu( 太武山) Mountain in Kinmen (金門).
Note: Shei-pa N.P. announced this month that that they are fining anyone found to have climbed to the top of the Daba's actual peak. For 99.9% of people getting to the foot of the summit (99.9% of the way) is more than satisfactory. The very final climb (yes - real climbing) has been treacherous since the various ropes and via ferratta were removed.
We are busy/on holiday until mid-October. Hope to able to arrange permits (think about Snow Mountain, Jhuilu, Daba, Hehuan) remotely in this time...and then soon after have a new schedule of open hikes/tours available!
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Monday, July 26, 2010
Jhuilu Trail Tour.
Taiwan’s Vertigo Trail - Jhuilu Old Road, Taroko
The Jhuilu (錐鹿古道) Trail in Taroko Gorge is probably one of the most stunning day-hikes in Taiwan. All of the trail is superb - the middle section is truly breathtaking - walking on a narrow ledge over 500 meters above the gorge.
We now offer a package tour for this (we've nicknamed it the Vertigo Trail) hike. This trail is for hikers in average to above-average fitness who enjoy big views. This hike is not for anyone very out of shape or suffering from acrophobia - a fear of heights!
The Jhuilu Old Trail is part of the long Japanese-era Hehuan Trail that once linked Taroko with garrisons on the west side of the central mountains. This section, damaged and closed for many years, is only now open to hikers. Most of it is a gorgeous hiking trail winding through beautiful forest, with an initial ascent/final descent of around 600 meters (2000 feet). What makes this truly spectacular are the middle sections that pass along sheer cliffs, where the cars and buses in the gorge half a kilometer below are...small, and a wrong move means...
The 10.3 km route takes up to 7 hours, so setting of at 7 or 8am makes sense. Hikers must carry plenty of water and snacks for this tough workout. Taroko National Park strictly enforces rules regarding the required permits (I've seen them fining people).The trail starts from Zimu (Cimu) Bridge and ends at the suspension bridge at the Swallow's Grotto (Yanzikou). This is usually the best direction of travel - and sometimes required. On most of the most exciting parts (path less than 70cm wide) of the trail there is a fixed safety line to hold onto; in a couple places there is a simple rail between you and a long, long fall. Start and end sections of the trail are more conventional - yet beautiful, passing through lush forest and remains of colonial-era stations and memorials.
Our package:
Permits - both ‘park’ and ‘mountain’. Maps
Return Train tickets from Taipei to Xincheng (Taroko, Sincheng) Station, where you will be met by our agent and driven to good accommodation near the gorge.
In the morning he will transport you to the trailhead, and be waiting when you descend in the afternoon for transport back to Xincheng Station.
There is a limit to the number of permits issued for each day - weekends may be difficult to obtain. We usually need at least a week to obtain the permits and make the other arrangements - but last minute can work too.
Not included: accident insurance, personal gear.
This is perfect for people who have previously been to the gorge before, have walked all the standard trails, and now want something a bit different. Itinerary fully customizable - discuss your requirements with us.
Can advise on itinerary planning.
Additional photos here.
Contact Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com
The Jhuilu (錐鹿古道) Trail in Taroko Gorge is probably one of the most stunning day-hikes in Taiwan. All of the trail is superb - the middle section is truly breathtaking - walking on a narrow ledge over 500 meters above the gorge.
We now offer a package tour for this (we've nicknamed it the Vertigo Trail) hike. This trail is for hikers in average to above-average fitness who enjoy big views. This hike is not for anyone very out of shape or suffering from acrophobia - a fear of heights!
The Jhuilu Old Trail is part of the long Japanese-era Hehuan Trail that once linked Taroko with garrisons on the west side of the central mountains. This section, damaged and closed for many years, is only now open to hikers. Most of it is a gorgeous hiking trail winding through beautiful forest, with an initial ascent/final descent of around 600 meters (2000 feet). What makes this truly spectacular are the middle sections that pass along sheer cliffs, where the cars and buses in the gorge half a kilometer below are...small, and a wrong move means...
The 10.3 km route takes up to 7 hours, so setting of at 7 or 8am makes sense. Hikers must carry plenty of water and snacks for this tough workout. Taroko National Park strictly enforces rules regarding the required permits (I've seen them fining people).The trail starts from Zimu (Cimu) Bridge and ends at the suspension bridge at the Swallow's Grotto (Yanzikou). This is usually the best direction of travel - and sometimes required. On most of the most exciting parts (path less than 70cm wide) of the trail there is a fixed safety line to hold onto; in a couple places there is a simple rail between you and a long, long fall. Start and end sections of the trail are more conventional - yet beautiful, passing through lush forest and remains of colonial-era stations and memorials.
Our package:
Permits - both ‘park’ and ‘mountain’. Maps
Return Train tickets from Taipei to Xincheng (Taroko, Sincheng) Station, where you will be met by our agent and driven to good accommodation near the gorge.
In the morning he will transport you to the trailhead, and be waiting when you descend in the afternoon for transport back to Xincheng Station.
There is a limit to the number of permits issued for each day - weekends may be difficult to obtain. We usually need at least a week to obtain the permits and make the other arrangements - but last minute can work too.
Not included: accident insurance, personal gear.
This is perfect for people who have previously been to the gorge before, have walked all the standard trails, and now want something a bit different. Itinerary fully customizable - discuss your requirements with us.
Can advise on itinerary planning.
Additional photos here.
Contact Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com
Friday, July 16, 2010
Bye-bye old Paiyun
The latest on Yushan.
The much rumored has now been officially announced: The main peak of Yushan (Jade Mountain) will be closed from the start of September 2010 to allow for reconstruction of Paiyun Lodge (排雲山莊). One surprise was the announcement that the mountain will be closed for 8 months - and not the 1 month that many people had be predicting, especially as much of the new Paiyun building will be pre-fabricated off the mountain and transported by helicopter for installation. The design is still being argued over earnestly by the great and the good. Will update this post as I know more (shocking how little is really known by anyone).
For ordinary hikers the mountain will be closed. For those with exceptional (I mean really, really exceptional) circumstances I suspect there may be very special allowances made. In the meantime I predict there may be as many as 50 people applying for each single permit for the last few days of August.
Remember good permit-free views of Yushan are still possible, not far from Alishan, in the Tataka (Tatajia) area (we can help you with transport around here). The hundreds of other superb 3,000+ meter ( around 10,000 feet) peaks elsewhere in Taiwan are looking for your hiking boots’ attention - think of Snow, Dabajian, etc. I am hopeful, if the next couple months are not too typhoon-rich, that there will be good news to report on access to the epic Batongguan Trail (a longer, harder way to Yushan’s summit): beyond Walami: and Xinkang (Sinkang) Mountain.
Or take it easy - learn more about Taiwan’s incredible biodiversity - buy a book (or video/map/poster/postcard) from Books from Taiwan http://booksfromtaiwan.com/
The much rumored has now been officially announced: The main peak of Yushan (Jade Mountain) will be closed from the start of September 2010 to allow for reconstruction of Paiyun Lodge (排雲山莊). One surprise was the announcement that the mountain will be closed for 8 months - and not the 1 month that many people had be predicting, especially as much of the new Paiyun building will be pre-fabricated off the mountain and transported by helicopter for installation. The design is still being argued over earnestly by the great and the good. Will update this post as I know more (shocking how little is really known by anyone).
For ordinary hikers the mountain will be closed. For those with exceptional (I mean really, really exceptional) circumstances I suspect there may be very special allowances made. In the meantime I predict there may be as many as 50 people applying for each single permit for the last few days of August.
Remember good permit-free views of Yushan are still possible, not far from Alishan, in the Tataka (Tatajia) area (we can help you with transport around here). The hundreds of other superb 3,000+ meter ( around 10,000 feet) peaks elsewhere in Taiwan are looking for your hiking boots’ attention - think of Snow, Dabajian, etc. I am hopeful, if the next couple months are not too typhoon-rich, that there will be good news to report on access to the epic Batongguan Trail (a longer, harder way to Yushan’s summit): beyond Walami: and Xinkang (Sinkang) Mountain.
Or take it easy - learn more about Taiwan’s incredible biodiversity - buy a book (or video/map/poster/postcard) from Books from Taiwan http://booksfromtaiwan.com/
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Yushan and arms.
A week of extremes. Last week started well - standing on Yushan’s summit, and ended badly - sprawled over a city street.
I was delighted to accompany Kim Myung Joon and his wife to the summit of Yushan on a particularly beautiful morning. Mr Kim was in 2006 the oldest person to complete the seven summits. Yushan is his 28th of the 50 most prominent summits. Note ‘prominence’ here is topographical prominence - a technical term - not ‘famous’ as most Taiwan media like to translate it. More Yushan pictures here.
At the end of the week i was nursing a scooter-related broken arm.
The details - should you be interested: The accident happened in East Tainan when I was on my scooter/motorcycle out purchasing books and lunch. I was crossing one of those intersections where I had a flashing yellow (pass with care) - and the lady that hit me (coming from my left) should have noticed a flashing red (stop/give way) light. Was a full-on crash into each other. Bystanders helpful, police and ambulance on scene quickly. Firsts for me: plaster cast; breathalyser test; Sinlao hospital; as patient in ambulance.
As well as scrapes and bruises on my chest, elbow, hand, knee, and foot I have broken my forearm (ulna near the wrist). Will take a few weeks in a cast to heal. Additionally scooter and clothes a bit mangled. The lady (50’s) has very similar injuries. Have settled amicably. See further snaps at here.
Sadly this will interfere with some (but not all) of Barking Deer’s activities in the next few weeks. Sorry! Grumble grumble...
Edit September: arm fine now, hair still 'thin'.
Richard
I was delighted to accompany Kim Myung Joon and his wife to the summit of Yushan on a particularly beautiful morning. Mr Kim was in 2006 the oldest person to complete the seven summits. Yushan is his 28th of the 50 most prominent summits. Note ‘prominence’ here is topographical prominence - a technical term - not ‘famous’ as most Taiwan media like to translate it. More Yushan pictures here.
At the end of the week i was nursing a scooter-related broken arm.
The details - should you be interested: The accident happened in East Tainan when I was on my scooter/motorcycle out purchasing books and lunch. I was crossing one of those intersections where I had a flashing yellow (pass with care) - and the lady that hit me (coming from my left) should have noticed a flashing red (stop/give way) light. Was a full-on crash into each other. Bystanders helpful, police and ambulance on scene quickly. Firsts for me: plaster cast; breathalyser test; Sinlao hospital; as patient in ambulance.
As well as scrapes and bruises on my chest, elbow, hand, knee, and foot I have broken my forearm (ulna near the wrist). Will take a few weeks in a cast to heal. Additionally scooter and clothes a bit mangled. The lady (50’s) has very similar injuries. Have settled amicably. See further snaps at here.
Sadly this will interfere with some (but not all) of Barking Deer’s activities in the next few weeks. Sorry! Grumble grumble...
Edit September: arm fine now, hair still 'thin'.
Richard
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Alishan Railway partially reopens.
Two short, but important, sections of the historic Alishan Mountain Railway have reopened. The 6.2 km-long Jhushan/Zhushan Sunrise-Watching Line (祝山觀日線) as well as the Divine Tree (Shen-mu, 神木線) Line are operating again. Both operate within the Forest Recreation Area at almost 2,500 meters elevation, and thus will not be of any use in terms of getting to Alishan from Chaiyi.
Management of the rail line is now back in the hand of the Forestry Bureau after the private company running it for a couple years declared themselves unable to repair the damaged line (fair enough - the reconstruction costs will be enormous). The government's pronouncements to have the entire rail line from Chaiyi to Alishan fixed by the end of 2011 is rightfully being treated with great scepticism by those familiar with the extensive damage caused by last year’s Typhoon Morakot. I hope the cynics are wrong
Monday, May 24, 2010
Summer again! 2010.
The summer is here and that means, for good or bad, some rain for us in the south. We haven't had significant rain since typhoon Morakot hit us last September - the result is reservoirs are low on much-needed water - and a real fear of landslide and mudflows. Morakot changed everything. This year the authorities will take no chances and are likely to close roads/cancel permits at the first sign of typhoons or heavy rain.
On recent trips to Yushan (Jade Mountain) preparations for renovating cabins and trails have been very visible. Recent stable weather conditions have allowed construction materials to be helicoptered in.
Paiyun Lodge.
The main building is to be completely rebuilt 'this year'. Initially the medical center (the wooden cabin on the west side of the main lodge) is to be converted to general accommodation. Rumor has it (why can this not be formally announced?) the mountain will be closed for the month of September to allow for more major construction work.
Yuanfong Cabin.
No applications are being accepted for Yuanfong Cabin during July. As I understand it, the cabin is only being renovated (new roof, new water tank) and not expanded.
Batongguan Trail.
There is lots of work being done on the badly damaged Batongguan trail from Yinu Waterfall to the alpine meadow, and from Yushan Main Peak to Batongguan. These sections are still treacherous - and rightfully closed. There is some hope though that they may be open later this year - crucial for all the remoter Yushan N.P. treks.
Jiaming Lake.
Still closed, some hope it will be reopened in the fall (October is being mentioned). The western section (Jiaxian-Baolai-Meishan-Yakao-Xiangyang) of the Southern Cross is effectively closed. On the long term, the approach to Xiangyang (Siangyang) may only be possible from Taidong. The cabins on the way to Jiaming Lake are to be reserveable online. This should be an improvement on the current system where the first people to have someone get ahead and 'occupy' spaces caused some resentment.
Other trails around Taiwan.
Generally open - but lets see what a season of typhoons does!
Yushan National Park are eager to improve the experience of foreigners in the park. Please complete their questionnaire. http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewform?formkey=dGoweUJIMFN2Rk1XNzNCVVRhT1ZpUXc6MA
The hostel (Wuling 'Cabin' 武陵山莊 not Wuling 'Hostel' 賓館) at the north end of Wuling Farm is closed for renovation.
Coming down Snow Mountain last week.
Have been answering quite a few inquiries about mountain porters recently. Some FAQs.
Q. Are they reliable? Do they speak English?
A. Most porters in Taiwan come from the branch of the Bunun Tribe in southern Nantou County. They are reliable, strong, excellent cooks, and often good singers. All round great guys, but don't speak English.
Q. How much do they cost? Can Barking Deer help make arrangements?
A. The standard rate for carrying up to 30kg is NT$3-4000 per day. They must be booked in advance - you will not just find them waiting at trailheads for hire. Yes, we can help with arrangements.
Q. What else can they provide?
A. They have pre-positioned sleeping bags at various popular cabins (including Paiyun, 369, 99, Nanhu, Jiaming, Juniper), and usually have someone there cooking excellent food. Must be arranged in advance.
Summer Hikes.
Will post soon.
On recent trips to Yushan (Jade Mountain) preparations for renovating cabins and trails have been very visible. Recent stable weather conditions have allowed construction materials to be helicoptered in.
Paiyun Lodge.
The main building is to be completely rebuilt 'this year'. Initially the medical center (the wooden cabin on the west side of the main lodge) is to be converted to general accommodation. Rumor has it (why can this not be formally announced?) the mountain will be closed for the month of September to allow for more major construction work.
Yuanfong Cabin.
No applications are being accepted for Yuanfong Cabin during July. As I understand it, the cabin is only being renovated (new roof, new water tank) and not expanded.
Batongguan Trail.
There is lots of work being done on the badly damaged Batongguan trail from Yinu Waterfall to the alpine meadow, and from Yushan Main Peak to Batongguan. These sections are still treacherous - and rightfully closed. There is some hope though that they may be open later this year - crucial for all the remoter Yushan N.P. treks.
Jiaming Lake.
Still closed, some hope it will be reopened in the fall (October is being mentioned). The western section (Jiaxian-Baolai-Meishan-Yakao-Xiangyang) of the Southern Cross is effectively closed. On the long term, the approach to Xiangyang (Siangyang) may only be possible from Taidong. The cabins on the way to Jiaming Lake are to be reserveable online. This should be an improvement on the current system where the first people to have someone get ahead and 'occupy' spaces caused some resentment.
Other trails around Taiwan.
Generally open - but lets see what a season of typhoons does!
Yushan National Park are eager to improve the experience of foreigners in the park. Please complete their questionnaire. http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewform?formkey=dGoweUJIMFN2Rk1XNzNCVVRhT1ZpUXc6MA
The hostel (Wuling 'Cabin' 武陵山莊 not Wuling 'Hostel' 賓館) at the north end of Wuling Farm is closed for renovation.
Coming down Snow Mountain last week.
Have been answering quite a few inquiries about mountain porters recently. Some FAQs.
Q. Are they reliable? Do they speak English?
A. Most porters in Taiwan come from the branch of the Bunun Tribe in southern Nantou County. They are reliable, strong, excellent cooks, and often good singers. All round great guys, but don't speak English.
Q. How much do they cost? Can Barking Deer help make arrangements?
A. The standard rate for carrying up to 30kg is NT$3-4000 per day. They must be booked in advance - you will not just find them waiting at trailheads for hire. Yes, we can help with arrangements.
Q. What else can they provide?
A. They have pre-positioned sleeping bags at various popular cabins (including Paiyun, 369, 99, Nanhu, Jiaming, Juniper), and usually have someone there cooking excellent food. Must be arranged in advance.
Summer Hikes.
Will post soon.
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