Summer again! 2010.

The summer is here and that means, for good or bad, some rain for us in the south. We haven't had significant rain since typhoon Morakot hit us last September - the result is reservoirs are low on much-needed water - and a real fear of landslide and mudflows. Morakot changed everything. This year the authorities will take no chances and are likely to close roads/cancel permits at the first sign of typhoons or heavy rain.

On recent trips to Yushan (Jade Mountain) preparations for renovating cabins and trails have been very visible. Recent stable weather conditions have allowed construction materials to be helicoptered in.

Paiyun Lodge.
The main building is to be completely rebuilt 'this year'. Initially the medical center (the wooden cabin on the west side of the main lodge) is to be converted to general accommodation. Rumor has it (why can this not be formally announced?) the mountain will be closed for the month of September to allow for more major construction work.

Yuanfong Cabin.
No applications are being accepted for Yuanfong Cabin during July. As I understand it, the cabin is only being renovated (new roof, new water tank) and not expanded.

Batongguan Trail.
There is lots of work being done on the badly damaged Batongguan trail from Yinu Waterfall to the alpine meadow, and from Yushan Main Peak to Batongguan. These sections are still treacherous - and rightfully closed. There is some hope though that they may be open later this year - crucial for all the remoter Yushan N.P. treks.

Jiaming Lake.
Still closed, some hope it will be reopened in the fall (October is being mentioned). The western section (Jiaxian-Baolai-Meishan-Yakao-Xiangyang) of the Southern Cross is effectively closed. On the long term, the approach to Xiangyang (Siangyang) may only be possible from Taidong. The cabins on the way to Jiaming Lake are to be reserveable online. This should be an improvement on the current system where the first people to have someone get ahead and 'occupy' spaces caused some resentment.

Other trails around Taiwan.
Generally open - but lets see what a season of typhoons does!

Yushan National Park are eager to improve the experience of foreigners in the park. Please complete their questionnaire. http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewform?formkey=dGoweUJIMFN2Rk1XNzNCVVRhT1ZpUXc6MA

The hostel (Wuling 'Cabin' 武陵山莊 not Wuling 'Hostel' 賓館) at the north end of Wuling Farm is closed for renovation.

Coming down Snow Mountain last week.
Have been answering quite a few inquiries about mountain porters recently. Some FAQs.
Q. Are they reliable? Do they speak English?
A. Most porters in Taiwan come from the branch of the Bunun Tribe in southern Nantou County. They are reliable, strong, excellent cooks, and often good singers. All round great guys, but don't speak English.
Q. How much do they cost? Can Barking Deer help make arrangements?
A. The standard rate for carrying up to 30kg is NT$3-4000 per day. They must be booked in advance - you will not just find them waiting at trailheads for hire. Yes, we can help with arrangements.
Q. What else can they provide?
A. They have pre-positioned sleeping bags at various popular cabins (including Paiyun, 369, 99, Nanhu, Jiaming, Juniper), and usually have someone there cooking excellent food. Must be arranged in advance.

Summer Hikes.
Will post soon.

Snow Mountain DIY

Hike Snow Mountain by yourself.

Snow Mountain is Taiwan's second highest - and an excellent choice if wanting to do a prominent peak by public transport and without a guide.

Embarrassingly known by many names including Shei, Syue, Hsieh, Xue, Sheui, Hsueh, Swei, it is in Shei-Pa National Park (the 'Pa' refers to another distinctive mountain Da 'Ba' Jian). It is is the highest point (3,886m) in the the Snow mountain range (the other ranges being the Eastern Coastal, Alishan, Central, and Yushan) and is Taiwan's second highest after Yushan. It is regarded by some as being more beautiful than, Yushan. For this reason - as well as the relative ease in getting permits we recommend foreign hikers, especially coming from Taipei, consider hiking Snow. It is possible to climb without a guide and using public transport (let us arrange the direct shuttle bus from Taipei). Having your own transport makes getting to and around Wuling Farm a bit easier though.

Snaps from a 2010 hike http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/barkingdeerinfo/SnowMay10#


There are several excellent hiking routes in Shei-Pa park including:

• Standard Snow main peak hike - 2/3 days.

• The Holy Ridge 'O' loop - a challenging 5/6 days.

• The Sixiu '4 shows' - 4 peaks over 3,000m 3/4 days.

• The west ridge 7 days.

• Dabajian standard ascent 3/4 days (beautiful route from Hsinchu County)

• Dabajian to Wuling traverse. 4/5 days.

These and other routes can be linked up for longer trips.

This post introduces the standard ascent of Snow main peak.

This hike starts from Wuling Farm/Wuling National Forest Recreation Area in Taichung County. But in practical terms it is closer to Yilan County or even Taroko Gorge. There are four main ways of getting there.

1. From Taipei on Freeway 5 via the new 13km long Hsuehshan tunnel, linking up with highway 7/7jia. This is the quickest (3½ hours) and easiest route. We can arrange a shuttle bus service directly from Taipei Main Station to Wuling.
2. From west central Taiwan via Puli, He-Huan Mountain, and the now down-at-heel Lishan. (Freeway 3, highways 14, 14 jia, 8, 7jai. Note: Freeway 6 is now open, linking Freeway 3 with Puli) This is a very scenic route but is best only if you are into enjoying most of a day traveling on winding roads.
3. From Taoyuan or Hsinchu over the scenic and often foggy North Cross-island highway (No 7 meeting up with 7jai). Allow 5/6/7 hours for this drive.
4. From Taroko. A trip to Wuling can (and should) be combined with a visit to the fantastic Taroko Gorge. Continue up No 8 beyond Tiensiang in the gorge, meeting No 7jai at Lishan. Allow half a day - enjoy it!

Notes: The formerly quickest way from west-central Taiwan on highway 8 is still closed between Guguan and Lishan. Rumor has it it may be opened to some traffic later this year - do not plan on it though. The free tourist maps available at airports and visitor centers are more than adequate for navigation. Two buses a day run from Taipei/Yilan, and one from Puli to Wuling.

Within Wuling
Wuling was originally (well, after the indigenous population were not to be found there anymore, that is) established as a farm for retired soldiers. In recent years it has taken on a more recreation-focused role and the the farming has largely disappeared. It is a very pleasant area with the Formosan Salmon Protection Area Cijaiwan River running through it. Key places include the Wuling Hotel (near the entrance), Visitor center, police station (where if we haven't obtained for you already you must apply for a 'mountain permit' - different from the 'National Park permit'), various orchards, Wuling Cottage from where you can do the day hike to Taoshan waterfall, campgrounds, and the trailhead for Snow mountain. These are mostly several kilometers from each other, thus, we suggest you have your own transport.

Hiking Snow
National Park permits must be applied for at least 10 days (1 month better) in advance and cannot be applied for on the spot at Wuling. Email us at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com and we can do all the paperwork for you - hard to do if you don't read/write Chinese, and haven't done it before. We will need the dates you plan to hike, your names, dates of birth, and passport numbers. If the application is successful (aim to hike on weekdays) we will email the permit as a PDF file and mail by conventional post a package including an indestructible topographical map annotated in English (see below) more detailed hiking notes, and as much advice as you desire. For this we charge NT$1900 (US$65) per group. If requested, we can arrange custom guided trips.

The number of hikers/permits is limited to spaces available in the huts/shelters - must apply to sleep in these. The shelters most relevant to this hike are, Chika (Qika), an easy hike only 2km from the trailhead and the higher-up Sanliojeou (369). The small Tswei-chr (Emerald pond), and beautifully located North Peak hut (within close range of the North Peak and the magnificent Dragon's spine) involve hauling all your gear over the main summit.

Visitor Center Area - 9.8km uphill (by car if desired) - Trail head (2,140m water, toilets, carpark) where your permits are inspected - 2km (on foot now) - Chika hut (2,500m large barrack-style bunk platform-beds rooms - space for 130 people, campground, water, toilets) - 3km - East Peak 3,201m - 2.1km - Sanliojeou (369) hut (space for 106 people, water-may be frozen in winter, toilets, no space to camp) - 2.6km - 'black' forest and start of Glacial Cirque - 1.2km - main summit 3,886m. A total of 10.9 km from trail head to summit.

For 'most' people it is recommended you stay in the huts for two nights. Everyone is different in their abilities and preferences - decide what is appropriate for you. Remember you are at altitude and may experience extremes of heat/cold you are not used to, only the very fittest and experienced should plan on staying on the trail only one night. Typical itinerary: Day 1. travel to Wuling, mid afternoon hike from trailhead to Chika hut. Day 2. Hike, via East peak, to Sanliojeou (369) hut. Day 3. Arise early, summit, return to trail head. Some people will be able to start hiking early on Day 1 and aim directly for Sanliojeou, some prefer to plan a later start from Sanliojeou Hut for the summit and spend an extra night there or Chika. Tell us clearly your dates and hut booking preferences - these must be specified on the permit application. Better to be over-cautious/conservative than be caught short of time or energy on the trail.

There is no bedding or cooking facilities at the huts, you must bring your own stove, utensils, gas, cooking pots, food, and sleeping bag. Other things you should have are: light hiking pants, warm fleece pants - in winter, spare underwear, wide-brimmed hat, warm hat, warm gloves, 2 pair spare socks, toilet paper - not tissue paper, headlight - fresh batteries, inner layer breathable shirt (not cotton!), 2 fleece layers - one light one heavy, toothbrush - toothpaste, sunblock, rain jacket, hiking boots - must be broken in and in good shape (remember most good shoes/boots are designed to disintegrate for recycling purposes after a couple years!), personal medicine etc, sleeping mat, backpack - must have good hip belt, backpack cover, bags to waterproof spare clothing/sleeping bag, water bottles - 2 liters, cell phone - CH telecom best, compass, water purifying gadget/tablets, maps (Barking Deer can supply).

We also appreciate having these things with us: hiking poles, sandals to wear at huts, shorts, glasses (better than contact lenses), entertainment - reading material/mp3, camera - spare battery/memory card, silica drying packs, first-aid kit, repair kit, Diamox for altitude sickness - do your own research on this.

Dogs not allowed. Not needed: technical climbing gear or crampons for most of the year. From December to March crampons and iceaxes may be needed.

The trail is obvious (but be careful in the 'Black forest' especially in low light), clean, and well serviced with bilingual signs and noticeboards.