Paiyun continued...

Paiyun continued...

It may surprise my some of my friends (if they were really listening to me in the last couple years), but I do have a life beyond figuring out options for climbing Yushan.

The main cabin on Yushan - Paiyun Lodge - made the English news today. I have reproduced the article from the Taipei Times below that makes public some of the rumors I have been hearing. A couple minor errors, and dodgy interpretations, but gives you a flavor of the issues involved

My conclusions: The conventional approach to Yushan (staying in Paiyun) may not be available as hoped for this spring/summer. This legal argument could drag on some time - I hope I am wrong.

In the meantime if you are fit and have good mountain hiking experience, and really want to get to the highest point in Taiwan, then the only half-sensible option is the tough single-day ascent. If you just want to do fantastic hiking in great mountains, then consider other trails such as Snow Mountain, the Hehuan area, and in greater Taroko. Taiwan has much, much more than Yushan (Jade Mountain). Richard HikeTaiwan@gmail.com

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A couple other bits of (early March) info/personal observations.

Yushan National Park (YSNP) have announced (well not really announced - more sheepishly let slip out that is) that:

Once Paiyun reopens, foreigners will pay three times what Taiwanese will for the use of the lodge. Their reasoning is that ‘this is what happens overseas’, and ‘is to cover the cost of bilingual services’. I ask - does this make it right, or a good overall idea? What bilingual services? Their website, trail signs, hiking maps, signs at Paiyun, and other advice is the worst of the other equivalent Taiwan organizations - Taroko NP, Shei-pa NP, Forestry Bureau etc.  

Another issue: once Paiyun reopens, foreigners will not be allowed (regardless of being able to prove extensive experience on serious Taiwanese or foreign mountains) to apply for single day ascents. Idiotic! Unsafe!

Quick FAQ notes:

• No camping at Paiyun.
• The main peaks are not open yet (early March) but possibly will be by April.
• If wanting great hiking on great mountains - and not ‘needing’ to do Yushan - consider some of Taiwan’s other mountains.

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Complaints raised over Yushan lodge

BROKEN LAWS? One complainant said the park was actually rebuilding the entire lodge, not refurbishing it, and that the true cost was being kept a secret

Yushan National Park Administration may have violated the Government Procurement Act (政府採購法) and the Construction Industry Act (營造業法) in the reconstruction of the Pai Yun Lodge (排雲山莊), a source said.
The lodge is a rest building for hikers, located 3,400m above sea level. It can accommodate 82 hikers in the main building and 20 in its camping area. Due to the heavy traffic on Yushan hiking trails, the park administration decided to refurbish the lodge and add a second floor in 2010. However, environmental protection groups opposed the plan on grounds that it might cause an ecological disaster.
To allay those concerns, the administration spent NT$1.3 million (US$43,946) in 2009 commissioning outside sources to evaluate the lodge project, and in 2010 spent another NT$900,000 on environmental and ecological monitoring.
Construction began in October 2010, but was soon met with protests.
A reader who tipped off the Liberty Times (the Taipei Times’ sister newspaper) on the alleged violations said the park administration had torn everything down except a few walls, and was actually rebuilding the whole building under the guise of refurbishing.
The administration’s methods to sidestep environmental criticism were in themselves very controversial, the reader said.
The reader said that in an effort to evade inspection by the Public Construction Commission and to be able to apply for green architecture labels, the park administration said it was only spending NT$40 million, but the estimates deliberately omitted the expense of airlifting materials by helicopter, which would have brought expenditures close to NT$100 million.
The park administration may have violated the law, the reader said, adding that it was illogical that the designers weren’t looking into the matter because there was such a serious breach of design.
Deputy park administration Director Wu Hsiang-chien (吳祥堅) said that while it was true that there were some additional fees in the construction process, any such fees would be handled through contracts.
The original budget for the construction stood at NT$45 million, and the winning construction bid came in at NT$38 million, Wu said. However, due to multiple design changes during construction process, the budget had been increased to NT$44 million.
The differences in the design conception of the construction and the design companies may cause the cost to increase to more NT$50 million, but no costs had been omitted from the budget quotes, Wu said.
The project is currently 93 percent complete, the park administration said, adding that it had asked the construction company to expedite work and finish quickly to avoid inconveniencing domestic and foreign hikers.

‧ The Yushan National Park Administration spent NT$1.3 million (US$43,946) in 2009 on outside sources to evaluate the lodge project.
‧ It spent NT$900,000 on environmental and ecological monitoring.
‧ The original budget for the project was NT$45 million, but the winning bid was NT$38 million.
‧ Multiple design changes have boosted the budget to NT$44 million.
‧ A complaint says the true cost may reach NT100 million.

Taroko (and Yushan) Spring 2011 updates.

Taroko (and Yushan) Spring updates.

Yushan (Jade Mountain): The official line is that Paiyun Cabin will be open from the end of July. Based on conversations with people who should know, I don’t believe this. I predict maybe a reopening at the very end of this (2011) year. Edit August 2011: best prediction will open spring 2012. Note very tough single-day ascents are still available now...when the mountain opens in the next few days.

Sometimes there is not always time to arrange last minute high-mountain hiking trips. You can’t go wrong with Taroko Gorge for a great range of sights, hikes and nature. See here for some recent photos.

Taroko Trail conditions at the start of April 2011, starting from the eastern ‘start’.
Original map here.

Qingshui (Chingshui) Cliffs at Chungde (崇德步道) 176.4km mark, right after the first tunnel north along the coast. Open.

Dekalun Trail (得卡倫步道). Up the hill behind the National Park headquarters. Open.

Dali-Datong Trail (大禮大同步道) Long, scenic single-day, or couple days. Open.

Shakadang (砂卡礑步道). A very pleasant must-do hike, starts after tunnel not far from National Park HQ. Open.

Eternal Spring Shrine Trail (Changchun, 長春祠步道). An absolute must-do sight. Do the 40-minute loop hike up above the shrine exiting at the nearby Changuang Temple. Few people get beyond the car park. Usually open.

Buluowan Trail (布洛灣－燕子口步道). A good steep path to use down to the main highway - especially if staying at the Leader Hotel. Open.

Swallow’s Grotto Trail (Yanzihkou, 布洛灣－燕子口步道). A very easy stroll that should NOT on any account be missed. Usually open, occasionally closed due to loose falling rocks.

Jhuilu (Vertigo) Trail (錐麓古道) is now open its entire length. Unbeatable! See pictures. Needs both kinds of permits.

Tunnel of Nine Turns Trail（Jiuqudong, 九曲洞步道). A stunning, easy stroll. Currently closed due to rockfalls, a very short section on the western end is sometimes open but is often plagued with tourists from China nowadays.

Lyushui-Heliou Trail (綠水步道). A very pleasant 1-hour loop. The short tunnel is just about manageable without a flashlight. Open - and don’t worry about the signs warning you about snakes and hornets - not a significant worry.

Lyushui - Wenshan Trail (綠水文山步道) A recently reopened trail. Moderatly tough - at start and end some scrambling, and requires/deserves 4 to 5 hours. Permit required but easy to obtain from the the NP police (warden) station at the park headquarters or at Tienxiang (the station on the left going up the hill towards the protestant church...across the street from the regular police station!)

Baiyang Trail (白楊步道). A very, very nice trail, CLOSED due to damage to mountainside at entrance next to highway. Tougher alternative route now available - see below.

Tianxiang - Baiyang Trail (天祥─白楊步道). Recently reopened access to the Baiyang Trail. Toughish and potentially risky in places. Trail starts from the protestant church in Tienxiang village. Please get a permit (easy) from the nearby police station. Easy walking once you get to the original trail that ends at the fun ‘Water Curtain tunnel’. If possible bring a flashlight for the tunnels. Allow 5-6 hours. Edit August 2011: may be closed close to waterfall due to missing bridge and reconstruction work.

Wenshan Hot Springs (文山溫泉). Officially closed for the last few years, park officials suggest it will reopen this year.

Meiyuan Jhucun Trail (梅園竹村). Great 6-hour, fairly-flat path. Officially closed due to landslide damage after the turn of for Lianhua Pond. Usually passable.

Lianhua Pond (Lotus, 蓮花池步道). A very nice 3-hour round hike starting and ending at Huitouwan (6km beyond Tienxiang Village. Don’t get too distracted by the views and walk of the edge. Open.

In addition to these trails, I recommend the following:
The ornamental entrance gate.
In the mid section of the gorge look up and try to spot the Jhuilu Trail - best at eastern end of the Tunnel of Nine Turns.
Take in the splendid Feng-shui of the pavilion at Cimu bridge.
Walk over the suspension bridge next to the Yuefei Pavilion. (The trail on the other side is the end of the very tough 7-8 day Cilai East Ridge Trail that starts at Hehuan Mountain.)
Tienxiang Terrace hike across the bridge and up to the statue and Xiangde Temple.

Remember trail conditions are always changing. Recently delays just after (west of) Eternal Spring Shrine - traffic allowed through on the hour and at lunchtime/morning/evening. Currently no delays at the rockslide after Tienxiang.

Rihang, the owner of Country Garden Hostel in Xincheng at the edge of the gorge May 2012 update - new location, even better place. Click here. has been impressing us with his eagerness to help. His clean hostel/homestay is conveniently located 10 minutes walk (can also pick you up) from Taroko (aka Sincheng/Hsincheng/Xincheng) Train Station. Overall good service - as well as accommodation, transport, and food - he has bicycles to rent. Consider his offer to drive you up to Tienxiang (Tiensiang) or Huitouwan by van and then letting you freewheel the whole way down again - a superb way to see the gorge at you own pace, solving the problem of a proper public bus service. Other fancier accommodation can be arranged.

Accommodation NT$900 per/person private rooms. Includes breakfast.
Bicycle rental (hostel guests or day-visitors) NT$350/ day.
Bicycle rental + shuttle to Tienxiang NT$700 (very good value!)
Contact Rihang at 0922938743 rihangsu@gmail.com. Some English spoken, if having communication problems speak to me at 0938337710 or barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Note the 8:40 bus from Hualien to high-mountain Lishan (via the gorge, Tienxiang, Guanyuan, and Dayuling) stops briefly 9.30 at the nearby Sincheng (Xincheng) school. Also buses at 6:30, 10:50, 13:50 from Hualien City (orange building next to train station) take 1.5 hours to Tienxiang. Return leaves Tienxiang at 9:10, 14:00, 16:40, 18:30. Pathetic service considering this is such a top destination for visitors.

For most of the time the gorge is quiet and empty...except when the Chinese tourists arrive on mass. Almost all their tour buses seem to arrive at the main easy sights (Swallow’s Grotto, Eternal Spring Shrine) mid to late afternoon. Be aware.

Recently Chinese (from China that is) tour groups have been booking up train spaces from Yilan to Hualien or Taroko (Sincheng/Xincheng/Hsincheng) to avoid the (un-)fun part of the Su-hua highway. It can be difficult to secure guaranteed train seats if coming from Taipei. Please note: just because there are “no seats available” that does not mean you can’t buy a ticket - and then with a bit of luck find a seat to use for most of the journey. It is possible to get on any train (except the 'Taroko express' and 'tourist' trains) without reserved seats. A trick locals use is to take the bus from Taipei (main bus station, Gamalan Bus Co) to Yilan (either Yilan City, Luodong or Dongshan) and then catch the next local train onwards. As well as saving money and time (bus is quicker...via the Hsueshan Tunnel), it means, at very worst, you may only have to stand a shorter time on the final Yilan to Hualien/Taroko section. No reason for not just going to Taroko again!

Alishan-Yushan-Sun Moon Lake tour.

Alishan-Yushan-Sun Moon Lake tour. (and Hehuan + Taroko!)

With the Southern Cross Highway out of action we now are running regular trips to areas slightly further north. These focus on scenery, easy walking, culture and nature. Itineraries are fully customizable. Here is a typical one:

Day 1. Pick up from any city or HSR station in southern Taiwan, travel to the tea-farming villages in the Alishan Area. Explore the idyllic village of Fenchihu (important stop on the narrow-gage forest railway), learn about aboriginal culture, tea and bamboo production. Stay at scenically located tea farmer's homestay.

Day 2. Get up early for a (depending on weather conditions) excellent sunrise, 15 minutes walk away. Further exploring of tea plantations and bamboo groves. Travel to Alishan Recreation Area or (better still) straight to the Tataka (Tatajia) area for easy or strenuous hiking with views of Yushan (Jade Mountain). Overnight in hot-spring hotel in Dongpu.
Day 3. From our hotel there are various options for short hikes. Travel to Sun Moon Lake, tour the lake by boat, stopping and exploring various sights. Return to HSR station or city.

Prices: Per person for 3 days, discounts for additional people. Includes all relevant costs (transport, tolls/entrance fees, accommodation, meals etc), excludes souvenirs and alcoholic drinks.

Menu A: (standard but good- van, accommodation, and meals.) NT$8,000 (about US$250)
Menu B: (higher quality - van, accommodation, and meals.) NT$22,000 (about US$700)

A popular extension:

Day 3. Visit Chung Tai Monastery, Puli, hotel at Ching-jing alpine resort.

Day 4. Travel over Hehuan Mountain, before the spectacular descent into Taroko Gorge. Stay in Gorge.

Day 5. Explore all the main sites in Taroko and Hualian, return via the Pacific coast road to Taipei.

Q&A

How far is the drive from Chaiyi HSR to the guesthouse?
Usually less than 2 hours. From here it is about another hour to Alishan Recreation Area.

Following the typhoon damage in 2009, is the Alishan Railway operating?
Sadly a lot of difficult engineering work has to done before it restarts. The section within the recreation area may be operating this year.

How fit do I need to be? What gear will I need?
Minimal fitness. Standard holiday clothing - maybe something warm needed at times.

Can you arrange something else?
Ask us, we are happy to advise.

barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

May June 2010 Hikes

Yushan is now open again (closed for most of the last 7 months!) and we are finally getting groups to the main summit. Note: the dates below below are provisional and may be adjusted in the next couple weeks. As ever, there is a lot of competition for permits, we are suspending even trying for weekend slots.

There are many other great high-mountain hikes other than Yushan. If wanting to do something spectacular by yourself please consider Snow or Dabajian. If wanting something with easier walking, but with superb views, consider Tataka or the greater Hohuan Mountain Area (more than expected there - more info coming soon).


May 4/5 Meet up 3rd evening. No more applications.
May 17/18 Meet up 16th evening. No more applications.
May 20/21 Meet up 19th evening. No more applications.
May 27/28 Meet up 26th evening. No more applications.

June 2/3 Meet up 1st evening. No more applications.
June 9/10 Meet up 8th evening. No more applications.
June 23/24 Meet up 22nd evening. No more applications.

July-September schedule coming soon.

Yushan (Jade Mountain) reopening...?

It is very likely that Yushan's trails will not start reopening until March 2010. Nothing has been officially confirmed yet, but this was one of the main conclusions at a recent meeting between the National Park and local hiking groups.

Repairs to approach roads are still at an early stage. Both highways No 21 from Nantou, and No 18 via Alishan, to Tataka (Tatajia) are in a very bad shape. It inadvisable to approach the area without a very good reason and a 4-wheel drive vehicle. The standard Tataka trail to the main peak of Yushan (Jade Mountain) will probably be the first reopened. The entry points to the longer trekking trails, such as via Dungpu/Batongguan and the Southern Cross Highway, will remain closed for a longer time.

One bit of good news. Competition for permits has been, and will continue to be, stiff. It has been suggested that foreign hikers be allowed to apply 3 months in advance for the required spaces at Paiyun Cabin. Should this become official policy (hope so!) it will be reflected in our spring schedule.

Revised 2009 - 2010 schedule.

This has been a difficult time to be scheduling hikes. Sorry to those of you that await a proper email response to various reasonable questions - keep pestering me!

Most of the mountains in the southwest including Yushan National Park and along the Southern Cross remain very closed. I've been updating the previous post regarding trail and road news.

The most optimistic prediction for Yushan's Main Peak is that it may be reopened in November. The various bits of damage to the trail, Paiyun Lodge, and traverse via Batongguan are well illustrated in the word document accessible here on the national park's website (the link is in the middle of the page beneath the dotted lines). Road access to Tataka via Alishan is possible by four-wheel drive vehicles. Tataka from Nantou (number 21) will not be passable for many months - for the gory photos see here.

Below is a provisional listing of hikes open to anyone fit enough for November to February. The good news (need some after talking about Yushan) is that northern Taiwan trails are generally in good condition - and the conventional approach to Daba is open.

November 2009

Nenggao-Antongjyun Traverse (能高安東軍縱走) Full
4th evening 10th evening.Up the Nenggao Trail, south along the spine, and exiting at Aowanda. See http://barkingdeernews.blogspot.com/2009/06/nenggao-andongjun.html for a few more details.

Daba Jian (大霸尖山)
12nd evening - 16th evening.
Extended approach from Guanwu to the famous barrel-shaped mountain.

Danda Cross-Island/Southern Third Section (丹大橫斷/南三段)
November 19th - 29th.
One of the longest cross-island routes - tough.

December

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain). Likely to be still closed.
1st evening - 3rd evening. Note, still not sure if it will be open, permits must be applied for before November 1st.The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Nengao Trail and Cilai South (能高奇萊南峰).
4th evening - 6th evening or 7th afternoon.
Fantastic historic trail to the spine of Taiwan.

Snow Mountain (雪山, Syueshan, and many other names...)
9th evening to 12th evening
The standard approach to Taiwan's second highest peak. May consider Wuling Quadruple peaks (武陵四秀)

Chitsai Lake and Hioushun Mountain (七彩湖六順山)
15th - 19th.
Hike to the spine of Taiwan from Hualian County.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain). Likely to be still closed.
20th evening - 22nd evening.
Note, still not sure if it will be open, permits must be applied for before November 19th.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Nengao Trail and Cilai South (能高奇萊南峰).
24th morning - 27th evening.
Fantastic historic trail to the spine of Taiwan.

Cilai East Ridge (奇萊東稜)
New Year's 31st on Hehuan - January 6th evening.
Epic, rigorous hike over Cilai North finishing in Taroko Gorge.

January 2010

Snow Holy Ridge (聖稜線)
10th evening - 14th evening.
The circular 'O' route. Fast, tough, not for those with vertigo.

Yushan (玉山, Jade Mountain).17th evening - 19th evening. Likely to be still closed.
Note, still not sure if it will be open, permits must be applied for before December 15th.
The standard approach to the main summit. Excellent food, sleeping bags provided at Paiyun cabin.

Sinkang Ridge (新康)
21st evening - 28th - pending reopening of trail.
From the Jiaming Lake, over Sinkang, exiting via the Walami trail.

February

Snow Mountain via Sikayo (Jhihjiayan) Mountain (志佳陽雪山)
1st evening - 4th night.
The original approach to the mountain. Descend via the East Peak.
OR possibly:
Snow Mountain North Peak and Cuichr Pond, checking out the dragon's spine and glacial cirques (combes) of the area.

Baigu Mountain (白姑大山).
5th evening - 8th evening.
The rarely rarely climbed, south of the Snow Range, made more inaccessible by the 921 earthquake.

Daba Jian (大霸尖山)
12nd evening - 16th evening.
Extended approach from Guanwu to the famous barrel-shaped mountain.

Jiaming Meteor Lake (嘉明湖)
22th evening - 25 evening.
Pending reopening of trail.

Siluan Dashan (西巒大山)
26th evening - 28th evening.

March.

Yanshui Fireworks (鹽水蜂炮)
Not our usual sort of trip. We will spend the main night of the festival in Yanshui (Yenshui) for this adrenalin and smoke-laced event.

In the meantime we hope there will be some good news about about the longer Yushan N.P. routes (Badasiou 八大秀, the Southern Stars 南橫三星, The Batongguan Trail 八通關越嶺, the Southern Second Section 南二段, the Mapo (Mapolass) Ridge Traverse 馬博橫斷), and all the other great stuff affected by Typhoon Morakot.

Please note: dates and other details listed here are liable to change for various reasons. I will try to keep things updated! These trips are of the standard hiking sort - each hiker carries, as well as his own, a proportion of the team's gear, portering not standard (can be arranged), some rough conditions and danger are to be expected. You should only attempt activities that you have the appropriate experience and ability to deal with.

Yushan Winter Closure

Yushan National Park has just announced it's annual winter closing of the main peak and sub-peaks of Yushan (this does not affect access to other mountains within the park), for the entire month of February 2009. This more lyrically described on the Park's English website as "2009 the Yushan Solemnity Activities".

Almost every year the main peak of Jade Mountain is closed to allow the mountain to 'rest' usually coinciding with the winter's coldest weather and the Lunar New Year holidays. This is a surprising early and concise announcement of the closure and is still liable to be brought forward or extended depending on actual weather conditions.

Some may argue there should be no closure - that conditions on the mountain are never that severe compared to many high mountains overseas or further north in Taiwan. This does not allow for the fact that most people climbing Yushan are not experienced mountain climbing-types, but are aiming to get up there for more cerebral reasons, rarely having the appropriate experience/equipment.