Snow Holy Ridge

The Snow Holy Ridge, is a a set of high-mountain routes in Shei-Pa National Park. The very few foreign hikers that make it onto these trails come back talking about how underrated Taiwan's mountains are. Highlights include rigorous high ridge walking, summiting several notable peaks (including Snow and Dabajian), fantastic views of the Central Mountain Range and the varied geology/ecology of the area. Excellent circuits and traverses of 4-10 days can be planned. It is often possible to travel from cabin to cabin on most routes.

The name Holy Ridge (聖稜線, Sacred Ridge, shen-ling-shen) was first used by Japanese climber Numai Tetsutarō (沼井鐵太郎) in 1928 to describe this world class route - that was not to have a recorded traverse until 1931. With an average elevation of over 3100 meters, but now with established trails (and a few fixed ropes) it is now a little easier than 80 years ago. Many parts are only suitable for the highly experienced hiker familiar with this kind of terrain.

Holy Ridge 'I' 'O' and 'Y'

The different possible routes of the Holy Ridge are usually described by the shapes of the letters I, O and Y. I've added my own conveniently named WQD9G. All can be hiked in either direction.

'I' Holy Ridge (I型聖稜線縱走) describes the traditional, essentially straight North-South route.

This starts from Hsinchu County and Guanwu FRA, via Madala River, JeoujeouCabin (九九山莊, Cabin 99), Yitse Mountain (伊澤山), Jungba Cabin (中霸山屋) to Dabajian (大霸尖山, Daba), and then south via Banan Cabin (霸南山屋, Ba-south), Basalayun Mountain (巴紗拉雲山), Bushioulan Mountain (布秀蘭山), Sumita Mountain (素密達山) Sumita Cabin (素密達山屋), Snow North Peak (雪山北峰) and then exiting via the standard Main/East Peak approach to Wuling Farm. A total of 5-9 days.

The route from Guanwu to Cabin 99 was closed for 10 years following the 921 earthquake but is now open. In recent years some hikers approached Daba from Chengsibao - the North Ridge. Some purists believe the southern exit should be by one of the southern mountains such as Jrjiayang (志佳陽, Sikayo) or even Dasiau Jian (大小劍).

'O' Holy Ridge (O型聖稜線縱走) is a circular loop starting and finishing at Wuling Farm.

If going in an anticlockwise direction (quite OK to do it either direction), it starts at Wuling Cabin (the hostel-like accommodation at the north end of the recreation area) with an ascent of either Taoshan (桃山) or more directly Chihyou Mountain (池有山) - two of the Wuling Quadruple Mountains. From Sinda Cabin (新達山屋) you climb westwards over Pintien Mountain (品田山), turn southwards at the intersection on Bushioulan Mountain (布秀蘭山), stay at Sumita Cabin (素密達山屋) before continuing south over Snow North Peak (雪山北峰) and then exiting by the standard Snow Mountain approach to Wuling Farm. A total of 4-8 days. 

'Y' Holy Ridge (Y型聖稜線縱走) the 'O' plus a spur to Daba.

This was the easiest and most popular way of getting to Daba when the Guanwu - Madala River - Jeoujeou Cabin route was still not open.

The 'Y' of the Y Holy Ridge is lying on its side (or may be upside down). It is similar to the 'O' route except that from Sinda Cabin instead of going directly eastwards over Pintien Mountain, hikers drop down into the valley northwestwards, crossing the Takejin Stream (塔克金溪) (the highest headwaters of the Danshuei River), and climbing back up to the main north-south ridge near the remains of Basalayun Mountain Cabin (巴紗拉雲山屋).

This day is sometimes called the Shiou-ba route (秀霸線) and traverses a variety of interesting terrain. Most people camp somewhere along the ridgebefore the final climb of Daba. The Banan Cabin (霸南山屋) is in very poor condition (due to be rebuilt this year) offering only very basic shelter from the elements, but is a good base for a day hiking around the various Daba peaks. The trek then turns southwards again along the ridge, crossing Basalayun Mountain (巴紗拉雲山), and rejoining the 'O' route at Bushioulan Mountain (布秀蘭山 3439 meters). This very worthwhile extra spur requires an extra 3 days. A total of 7-10 days.

The Wuling-Quadruple-Daba-99-Guanwu Route -WQD9G (name invented by me - suggestions for a better one?)

One issue with each of the 'I' 'O' and 'Y' routes described above is that they involve crossing the highly exposed sections of trail west of Pintien and north/south of Sumida. These are fine for those with experience of fixed ropes, cliffs, and loose rock, but for those with less experience and confidence I recommend this safer route.

Wuling, Taoshan/Chihyou to Sinda Cabin, side-trip to Pintien summit, via Takejin Stream to Daba, Jeoujeou Cabin, Madala River to Guanwu. A total of 4-8 days.

This is a superb route that avoids the most dangerous sections, but does not include summiting (good views of though) of Snow Mountain.

Notes:It is advisable have proper experience of Taiwan's easier treks before contemplating any of the Holy Ridge routes. If you think you can go off trail and find faster routes you do not understand Taiwan's terrain and should not be hiking here. The permit (required) officially limits hikers to 10 days in the mountains at a time. In the middle of these routes you may not meet any other hikers.

We are happy to help hikers devise good routes and assist in sorting out permits and other logistics. Contact Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com

Wuling Quadruple DIY

Wuling Quadruple DIY

Wuling Quadruple Mountains (武陵四秀) are a set of 4 mountains easily accessible from Wuling Farm that offer great hiking and blow-away views. The 4 mountains that make up this hike are Taoshan, Kalayeh, Chihyou, and Pintien - all 'Top 100' peaks. Excellent views of Snow Mountain, Dabajian, and of the Central Mountain Range peaks of Nanhu and Jhongyangjian. The start and end point is the north end of Wuling Farm recreation Area. This circular hike can be included as part of the renowned Snow Holy Ridge.
Various itineraries are possible - from an exhausting 1 day to a more sedate 5 days. The 1-day option is to the summit of Taoshan is only for the very fittest - and experienced in doing such silly things. Typically hikers should allow 3 or 4 days to summit the 4 peaks. Accommodation is possible at the 2 cabins, Taoshan and Sinda, or the nearby campsites - as usual it is best to avoid weekends!
We help with all the necessary arrangements (permits, maps, cabin bookings, trail notes etc). Cost: NT$2500 (US$80) for the first person, NT$900 for additional individuals on the permit. We accept payment by Paypal, bank transfer, or cash. Discounts for poor students and English teachers (not at all poor).

Send your dates of travel, name, date of birth, either your passport or ARC number (just the main number is enough), and postal address (for the maps) to Richard at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com If possible include your cell-phone number, and any emergency contact in Taiwan.
More photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/barkingdeerinfo/SnowHolyRidge# (The first 110 anyway) and http://picasaweb.google.com/barkingdeerinfo/SnowSyueHolyRidgeHighDefinitionUntouchedUp# (the first few)

Snow Mountain DIY

Hike Snow Mountain by yourself.

Snow Mountain is Taiwan's second highest - and an excellent choice if wanting to do a prominent peak by public transport and without a guide.

Embarrassingly known by many names including Shei, Syue, Hsieh, Xue, Sheui, Hsueh, Swei, it is in Shei-Pa National Park (the 'Pa' refers to another distinctive mountain Da 'Ba' Jian). It is is the highest point (3,886m) in the the Snow mountain range (the other ranges being the Eastern Coastal, Alishan, Central, and Yushan) and is Taiwan's second highest after Yushan. It is regarded by some as being more beautiful than, Yushan. For this reason - as well as the relative ease in getting permits we recommend foreign hikers, especially coming from Taipei, consider hiking Snow. It is possible to climb without a guide and using public transport (let us arrange the direct shuttle bus from Taipei). Having your own transport makes getting to and around Wuling Farm a bit easier though.

Snaps from a 2010 hike http://picasaweb.google.com.tw/barkingdeerinfo/SnowMay10#


There are several excellent hiking routes in Shei-Pa park including:

• Standard Snow main peak hike - 2/3 days.

• The Holy Ridge 'O' loop - a challenging 5/6 days.

• The Sixiu '4 shows' - 4 peaks over 3,000m 3/4 days.

• The west ridge 7 days.

• Dabajian standard ascent 3/4 days (beautiful route from Hsinchu County)

• Dabajian to Wuling traverse. 4/5 days.

These and other routes can be linked up for longer trips.

This post introduces the standard ascent of Snow main peak.

This hike starts from Wuling Farm/Wuling National Forest Recreation Area in Taichung County. But in practical terms it is closer to Yilan County or even Taroko Gorge. There are four main ways of getting there.

1. From Taipei on Freeway 5 via the new 13km long Hsuehshan tunnel, linking up with highway 7/7jia. This is the quickest (3½ hours) and easiest route. We can arrange a shuttle bus service directly from Taipei Main Station to Wuling.
2. From west central Taiwan via Puli, He-Huan Mountain, and the now down-at-heel Lishan. (Freeway 3, highways 14, 14 jia, 8, 7jai. Note: Freeway 6 is now open, linking Freeway 3 with Puli) This is a very scenic route but is best only if you are into enjoying most of a day traveling on winding roads.
3. From Taoyuan or Hsinchu over the scenic and often foggy North Cross-island highway (No 7 meeting up with 7jai). Allow 5/6/7 hours for this drive.
4. From Taroko. A trip to Wuling can (and should) be combined with a visit to the fantastic Taroko Gorge. Continue up No 8 beyond Tiensiang in the gorge, meeting No 7jai at Lishan. Allow half a day - enjoy it!

Notes: The formerly quickest way from west-central Taiwan on highway 8 is still closed between Guguan and Lishan. Rumor has it it may be opened to some traffic later this year - do not plan on it though. The free tourist maps available at airports and visitor centers are more than adequate for navigation. Two buses a day run from Taipei/Yilan, and one from Puli to Wuling.

Within Wuling
Wuling was originally (well, after the indigenous population were not to be found there anymore, that is) established as a farm for retired soldiers. In recent years it has taken on a more recreation-focused role and the the farming has largely disappeared. It is a very pleasant area with the Formosan Salmon Protection Area Cijaiwan River running through it. Key places include the Wuling Hotel (near the entrance), Visitor center, police station (where if we haven't obtained for you already you must apply for a 'mountain permit' - different from the 'National Park permit'), various orchards, Wuling Cottage from where you can do the day hike to Taoshan waterfall, campgrounds, and the trailhead for Snow mountain. These are mostly several kilometers from each other, thus, we suggest you have your own transport.

Hiking Snow
National Park permits must be applied for at least 10 days (1 month better) in advance and cannot be applied for on the spot at Wuling. Email us at barkingdeerinfo@gmail.com and we can do all the paperwork for you - hard to do if you don't read/write Chinese, and haven't done it before. We will need the dates you plan to hike, your names, dates of birth, and passport numbers. If the application is successful (aim to hike on weekdays) we will email the permit as a PDF file and mail by conventional post a package including an indestructible topographical map annotated in English (see below) more detailed hiking notes, and as much advice as you desire. For this we charge NT$1900 (US$65) per group. If requested, we can arrange custom guided trips.

The number of hikers/permits is limited to spaces available in the huts/shelters - must apply to sleep in these. The shelters most relevant to this hike are, Chika (Qika), an easy hike only 2km from the trailhead and the higher-up Sanliojeou (369). The small Tswei-chr (Emerald pond), and beautifully located North Peak hut (within close range of the North Peak and the magnificent Dragon's spine) involve hauling all your gear over the main summit.

Visitor Center Area - 9.8km uphill (by car if desired) - Trail head (2,140m water, toilets, carpark) where your permits are inspected - 2km (on foot now) - Chika hut (2,500m large barrack-style bunk platform-beds rooms - space for 130 people, campground, water, toilets) - 3km - East Peak 3,201m - 2.1km - Sanliojeou (369) hut (space for 106 people, water-may be frozen in winter, toilets, no space to camp) - 2.6km - 'black' forest and start of Glacial Cirque - 1.2km - main summit 3,886m. A total of 10.9 km from trail head to summit.

For 'most' people it is recommended you stay in the huts for two nights. Everyone is different in their abilities and preferences - decide what is appropriate for you. Remember you are at altitude and may experience extremes of heat/cold you are not used to, only the very fittest and experienced should plan on staying on the trail only one night. Typical itinerary: Day 1. travel to Wuling, mid afternoon hike from trailhead to Chika hut. Day 2. Hike, via East peak, to Sanliojeou (369) hut. Day 3. Arise early, summit, return to trail head. Some people will be able to start hiking early on Day 1 and aim directly for Sanliojeou, some prefer to plan a later start from Sanliojeou Hut for the summit and spend an extra night there or Chika. Tell us clearly your dates and hut booking preferences - these must be specified on the permit application. Better to be over-cautious/conservative than be caught short of time or energy on the trail.

There is no bedding or cooking facilities at the huts, you must bring your own stove, utensils, gas, cooking pots, food, and sleeping bag. Other things you should have are: light hiking pants, warm fleece pants - in winter, spare underwear, wide-brimmed hat, warm hat, warm gloves, 2 pair spare socks, toilet paper - not tissue paper, headlight - fresh batteries, inner layer breathable shirt (not cotton!), 2 fleece layers - one light one heavy, toothbrush - toothpaste, sunblock, rain jacket, hiking boots - must be broken in and in good shape (remember most good shoes/boots are designed to disintegrate for recycling purposes after a couple years!), personal medicine etc, sleeping mat, backpack - must have good hip belt, backpack cover, bags to waterproof spare clothing/sleeping bag, water bottles - 2 liters, cell phone - CH telecom best, compass, water purifying gadget/tablets, maps (Barking Deer can supply).

We also appreciate having these things with us: hiking poles, sandals to wear at huts, shorts, glasses (better than contact lenses), entertainment - reading material/mp3, camera - spare battery/memory card, silica drying packs, first-aid kit, repair kit, Diamox for altitude sickness - do your own research on this.

Dogs not allowed. Not needed: technical climbing gear or crampons for most of the year. From December to March crampons and iceaxes may be needed.

The trail is obvious (but be careful in the 'Black forest' especially in low light), clean, and well serviced with bilingual signs and noticeboards.